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Generator wont start in auto due to EC 30 display showing(Low batteries Error) both house and chassis batteries are testing at 13.14 volts by meter and test switch. batteries are fully charged?
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To find out which is bad, you have to check the maximum output of the generator. To do this, you'll need a good voltmeter and a jumper wire. First, remove both "A" and "F" terminal wires. One of the wires is a hot wire so don't let it short to the frame. Then set your meter's function switch to DC VOLTS with a range of 50 volts or greater. Connect the positive meter lead to the "A" terminal and the negative meter lead to an engine ground. Start the engine and run it at about 2000 RPM. MOMENTARILY connect a jumper lead from the engine ground to the "F" terminal. Your volt meter should read 25 to 30 volts. If not, polarize the generator but MOMENTARILY shorting the battery positive post with the "A" terminal and recheck the maximum output test. If you do not have at least 25 volts out of the generator, you need to service the generator. If you do have 25 or more volts from the generator, your regulator is probably bad.
Most of those chargers have a fuse in line between the battery and the charger which you should check. They are two stage chargers meaning when there is a large voltage drop, they go to a high rate charge until battery voltage reads about 14.3 - 14.6 VDC then drops to a float volatge and normal float voltage should be about 13.33 VDC. When they go to a high rate the light turns red, when they go to float the light turns green. When the fuse blows the light stays green because it doesn't see any voltage but the charger isn't doing any work.
Find the Regulator & unplug. Connect a AC volt meter to the 3 white wires at the connector that is unplugged from the reg. connecting the 2 red & black meter leads to ANY 2 white wires at the plug (colors don't matter with AC. Run the bike & rev up. You should have starting at about 30 volts ac Up to about 90 volts ac reved if the Stator is good. Now move the 2 meter leads to 2 more white connections & check again. Now you have one more pair of white connections to check. Should have the same 90 volts on any of the 3 pairs of whites (3 phases). If they are low, The startor inside the cover is burnt--Replace it. If good, Then the Regulator/Rectifier Unit that rectifies ac to dc & then regulates the output at 14 ~ 14.5 volts DC on the red & ground (Green or black or housing ground) to go to the battery is the only other part that is for charging. You can't test a regulator other than to see if you have 90 v AC going into it & the plugged in it should be showing 14 Volts DC at the battery terminals , Not just 12 volts. Make shure you have a fully charged GOOD battery before tests or the readings will all be off.
G'day. Sound very much like a low charge rate(your bike is not recharging the battery). You need to have the bikes charge rate checked. Basically-your bike should charge at a rate of 13.4- 14.2volts(DC) when running. If it's not- the battery will keep going flat. The test is performed by starting the bike & placing a voltmeter across the battery to measure the output. It's a relativily quick & easy test to perform that only takes a few seconds-but if the charge rate is low then its caused usually by the regulator or the alternator(stator). If you have a multimeter-or know someone who does-then the test is pritty easy & you need to do that before you go any further. If you do it yourself- set the meter to Volts DC at a range higher than 15volts(if the meter is not auto-ranging) run the bike with the volt meter probes touching the Battery(black probe to battery negative-red test probe to battery posative) & observe the voltage reading. You want 13.5 to 14.2v. If you can't do it yourself then an auto-electrician or bike shop should be able to do it while you wait for just a few dollars.(only the test though- if the charge rate is low then you have then other issues to solve)
I hope this was of some help Kind regards Andrew Porrelli
First, your battery MUST be fully charged to perform these test. You'll need a good DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) but an analog meter will work. Connect the meter across the battery with the read lead to the positive post and the black meter lead to the negative post. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Your meter should show a slow build up of voltage over about a thirty second period of time. It should read 14.5-15.0 volts.
If not, you'll need to test the alternator. Unplug the regulator at the front of the engine. Look inside the connector in the engine case and you'll see two metal connectors. Put one meter lead into each contact. It makes no difference which lead goes to what connector because we're checking AC voltage. Now, set your meter function switch to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to high idle. You should read at least 30 volts.
If you read 30 volts or more at the alternator but less than 14 volts at the battery, replace the regulator. Naturally, less than 30 volts at the alternator, replace the stator.
To test the chargeing system on your bike. First, text the battery. Unless it is "brand new" there is always the posibility that your battery is the problem. This is especially true on an Ironhead Sporty due to the vibration. Take it to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test it.
The first thing we want to do is to "polarize" the generator. Using a jumper wire, MOMENTARILY touch the wire from the "A" terminal to the positive terminal of the battery. Just make it spark, that's all.
Now, with the battery FULLY CHARGED, connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to the battery. Red meter lead to the positive and black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater scale. Start the engine bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts. If not, test the generator.
First, remove all the wires from both the "A" and the "F" terminals. put your meter's function switch to DC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the "A" terminal and the black meter lead to a good ground. Start the engine and bring the revs up to about 2000 rpm. MOMENTARILY, connect a jumper lead form ground to the "F" terminal of the generator. Your volt meter should read 25-30 volts.
If your generator output is good, you need to replace your regulator. If the output of the generator is zero or low, you need to service the generator. Check the brushes to make sure they're not worn and you may need to recondition the communtator surfaces.
Well, you didn't give a lot of information as to what your problem is so I'll assume that your battery is not staying charged. The first thing you want to do is have the battery tested. Take it out and take it to an auto parts house and ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery test good, put it back in the bike and make sure it is fully charged.
Now, using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) connect the meter across the battery terminals. Red meter lead to positive post and black meter lead to negative. Put the meter in DC volts, 20 volt or higher range. Start the engine. The meter should rise rather quickly to 14.5 - 14.8 volts.
If it doesn't reach the desired voltage, disconnect the voltage regulator at the connector where it plugs into the engine case. There will be two metal contacts down in the connector in the engine case. Put your meter in AC volt, 50 volt or higher range. Make sure your meter is in AC volts for this test. Start the engine and put the meter leads to the metal contacts, one to each contact. It makes no difference which goes to which since you dealing with AC voltage. You should read 30 or more volts with the engine at a high idle. If you do, your regulator is bad. If you don't read at least 30 volts, you stator is bad.
Take the battery in at any auto parts store and have it load tested. They will tell you if its a good battery or not. If not get a new one and then test the altenator with a volt meter. If no access to a volt meter take the altenator in and have that tested. If you do have one start the engine and run the probes from the volt meter this way. The positive probe to the negative terminal of the battery and the negative probe to the positive side of the battery. If a reading of voltage shows the diode inside the altenator is at fault. If the reading displays the OL feature on the display the diode is good. Now switch the probes to red on red and black on black and see if it shows 13.5 volts. If it is less than that voltage the altenator is not producing a good charge to the battery so it will need to be replaced too
You say your test light was hooked from the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis? This is correct? If so you don't have a short you have an open circuit. You will have a bad ground somewhere between the battery and the engine or between the the engine and the body. Trace your grounds. If you need more help leave a messege in "add comments" and I will help you along.
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