SOURCE: I have a 2005 yamaha venture royal star and i just
If it wont do anything then it is likely that youve popped a fuse
But it sounds like the battery isnt being charged properly. Make sure the voltage across the batt terminals is at least 13.5v at tickover rising to no more than 15.5v at higher revs
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SOURCE: where is the fuel filter located on 1996 Royal
You can download a free service manual at
http://www.yamaha-motor-europe.com/community/service/manuals.jsp
SOURCE: how to change the brakes on 1996 yamaha royal star
Hooo..this is gonna be a long one. Hope you either have a laptop you can take to the bike, or you can print this.
Make sure you have an adequate supply of DOT 4 brake fluid. A quart should be enough, but much less is gonna leave you without brakes somewhere until you can get more. You CAN NOT refill with DOT 5 fluid; flushing the lines with alcohol, drying and purging is required before that change - and the benefits are negligible.
If you have the Royal Star, not the Deluxe, ignore the next paragraph.
Remove the saddlebag on the right side of the bike. Sound simple? NOT! There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where they come from, and in what order you remove them.
The rear caliper is now exposed - the real fun begins. Two bolts hold the caliper to the caliper arm - remove them and lay the caliper on the arm. Remove the black plastic dust cover on the top of the caliper (it's frequently missing, the ears that snap into slots in the caliper get brittle, and it breaks off and disappears), but DON'T try to remove the spring beneath. Lay the caliper on its side, pads toward you. Collapse the pistons (if you don't know how to do that, shame on you. Get a stack of pennies and a large screwdriver, stack pennies IN THE CENTER of one pad until there is very little clearance between the two pads with the screwdriver inserted between the pennies and the bare pad. Twist screwdriver HARD, relax. Keep adding pennies and twisting until neither pad will move any more).
It's time now for final disassembly. Flip the caliper over; you'll see two pins secured by spring clips. Those pins also secure the spring; note the orientation of the spring through the pins, take pictures or draw the assembly; whatever you do, make sure the springs and pins are reinstalled in EXACTLY the same orientation. Remove spring clips, remove pins and springs, and the pads can be removed one at a time by sliding to the center of the caliper. Insert new pads, reinstall pins, spring and spring clips, remount caliper, reinstall dust cap and bleed brakes. Pat yourself on the back now if it was a Royal Star - if it's a Deluxe, you've still got to wrestle the bag back into place. You can now reassure yourself (and any observers/kibitzers) that the worst caliper of the three is out of the way.
Proceed to the front, and pick a caliper. You'll see two (usually black) bolts holding the caliper to the front fork, remove them and swing the caliper free of the disk. The caliper itself closely resembles the one in the back with two notable exceptions - in addition to the spring on top of the pads, there are two retainers on the front and rear of the pads (they keep debris from getting between the pads and disk, and keep the pads from moving back and forth in the caliper housing), and on the back of the outside pad is a shim (don't ask me why, but it's usually there). disassembly and reassembly and reassembly are similar to the rear caliper BUT; remember to transfer the outside shim to the new pad, and , once the pistons are collapsed, remove the retainers from the front and rear of the old pads, then reinstall in the new pads prior to installing the pins and spring above the pads. After you've finished both calipers, bleed one caliper at a time.
Check the firmness of the brakes one more time, and it's Michelob time!
SOURCE: Shiftshaft on 1996 Royal Star - Updated?
When you say "pin holder", I'm assuming that you mean the part that Yamaha refers to as the segment - it holds 5 short and one long dowel pin at the end of the shift cam assembly. In 1996 the segment part number was 26H-18185-00-00, it held five 93604-17198 dowel pins, one 93604-21197-00 dowel pin and a 26H-18561-01-00 side plate. However, in 1998 the segment part number 4NK-18185-00-00 held five 93604-12037-00 dowel pins and one 93604-16092-00 dowel pin; the side plate had been eliminated. The shift shaft for the early combination was 4NK-18101-00-00, for the later combination 4NK-18101-01-00. If you recognize the "pin holder" part number, you will know which shift shaft you should be using.
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