Mikuni bs32ss doing a carb sync. Where to attach vacuum hose and which screw to adjust. Even the "manual" doesn't identify which screw or where to attach hose. Pictures would be nice. Thanks

A model number is useful or even the 'friendly' name 'Fat Boy' 'Sportster', 'Street Glide' etc.

Videos in the link plus articles.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+Harley+Davidson+adjust+Mikuni+52mm+carb

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Carbs are mostly "locked up", no adjustments other than idle, and for "syncing". To adjust idle there a screw up on the linkage where the cable attaches, and a bellcrank that moves all 4 carbs together, it's up and forward of the carbs on the top, just under your fuel tank. It's a little hard but not impossible to adjust with the tank on.
The only other adjustments are idle air fuel on some models, a brass colored screw on the side of each carb. These should all be 1 1/2 turns, adjusting them any where else isn't gonna change much.
"syncing" the carbs involves being sure the slides inside are all the same height, this doesn't change much. It requires eithe a nanometer or vacuum gauge made for bikes, or the carbs coming off and physically measuring each slide and adjusting them.

If it has a needle jet clip it will be located inside the slide for the carburetor. If you remove the slide from the carb the needle will still be attached. Look inside the top of the slide and it will be held down by a screw/plate/hex retainer or other means. If this is a single carb engine then it will be ok to remove it but if this is a multiple carb engine, then the carb sync will be disturbed and most likely need to be reset.

1 1/4 turn out from fully in

Would be nice to have the year and engine size to verify you actually have a carb and not injection, but, to adjust most carbs, disconnect and plug the vacuum hose to the distributor, attach a vacuum gauge to the manifold, and a tach to the coil. Lower the idle by adjusting the throttle linkage, to the lowest rpm the engine will run at.
Turn one of the small adjustment screws in the front of the carb base 'till you have the highest rpm and vacuum (usually not the same....go for best compromise) Then, do the same using the other screw.
Repeat again at the first screw and so on 'till they are balanced. Generally it's best to then back off both screws about a quarter turn after you have finished, but sometimes that isn't necessary.
Once that adjustment has been made, re-adjust the throttle screw to the correct RPM and re-connect the vacuum line to the distributor.
One note...wait a moment after each adjustment so the engine vacuum stabilizes.
Some carbs will have the adjustment screws "capped" If you find that, you will need to remove the carb and carefully drill them out without damaging the screw head under the caps.

it wont hrut to have a tune up on the carbs but to set them back in sync you need a tool for it and you would need to reset the fule mix after that as well,

Turn the air screw and the throttle screw inward until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each of them outward one and one half turns. This is the factory setting. You might want to clean the carbs. After cleaning, before you put the slide back into the carb, move the clip on the jet needle downward one notch. This will richen the fuel mix and help with the bog.

Here is a diagram showing the tubes you connect your vacuum gauges to.
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=326&B=11
The YZF600R is carbureted, so I do not know what you mean by throttle body adjustments.
Synchronizing carburetors means adjusting the throttle plates (butterflies) so that all cylinders are drawing the same amount of vacuum.
Here is a diagram of the carbs. Screw #31 is the screw used to change the sync.
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=326&B=13
Remember one other key point, all carbs are sync'ed to the #3 carb. You cannot change the vacuum (directly) on #3. It is usually best to start by syncing #2 to #3, then #4, then #1. Changing #2 can affect the sync on #1 so you definitely want to do 1 after 2 no matter what. If you have one cylinder WAY out of sync, that would be an exception to the previous rule where you would want to attempt to get that cylinder in the ball park of the others before fine tuning each cylinder.
Syncing the carbs is an alternating process between adjusting the vacuum then adjusting the idle. If they were out of sync, bringing them back in, or even getting close, can cause the idle to raise because the engine isn't fighting itself anymore. Always keep the engine idling @ 1100 rpm's while syncing.

carb sync is done using only the carb hard stop adjustment u don't touch the air fuel mixture screw, had this exact same bike had the serive manual am dead sure on this

sounds like the main jets are partly pluged, you must remve all brass jets and seats including needle jet and its slide soak in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air only.. hold up to bright light to verify if all are clean. jim