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2005 vl 1500 charging system system not charging checked generator 3 wires giving pluss 80v at 5000rpm instaled new rectifier voltage across battery under 13 volts could faulty battery be problem

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Hi, Anonymous the following is a comprehensive charging system test that I found on a Rider Groups website
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.crowitis.com/images/VL1500_Charging_System_Wiring_Upgrades.pdf
stator output voltage
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf
Suzuki VL1500 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki VZ1500 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Jan 16, 2017

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2 Answers

I have a 6000 watt allpower generator that the 12 volt breaker poped out reset it still no power replaced the avr ran for about 5 seconds then poped the 12 volt breaker again what could it be


Barry,

The 12v system does not go through the AVR. It most likely is the Battery Charging Rectifier has failed. This controls the voltage from the 12v feed from the alternator and charges the battery.

1) Follow the wiring from the 12v socket/connectors until you come to a Block rectifier. It will be held on by a bolt in the center and have 4 wires connected to it. If you look at the pins you will see one is seated at a different angle to the others. Test the feed to this pin, you should get a result of between 12 Volts DC to 16 Volt DC.
If you are not getting these results then the Block rectifier has blown and will need replacing. http://www.generatorguru.com/rectifier-98406168/

2) If all is testing fine above, then you will need to test the Battery Charging Rectifier as you have an Electric Start and Battery on your unit. This is a metal block located on the back of the engine, next to the starter motor and it has fins running across it. ( to see an example of this part look up your generator on this page http://www.generatorguru.com/all-power/) Again this should be giving you between 12 Volts DC to 16 Volt DC.

3) Next,check the voltage going into the Battery Charging Rectifier from the alternator. You should get between 12 Volts DC to 16 Volt DC.

For replacement parts please see our web page. You will need the full model number to do this.:

http://www.generatorguru.com/all-power

Dec 06, 2016 | Allpower Electrical Supplies

2 Answers

Why won't my 250s klx kawasaki charge got new battery still wont charge


check with a multmeter if the two poles generator gives the required voltage must be no less than 12.8-13.0 volts at increasing speed and includes stop lights and headlamp reach values do13.8-15.0 volts maximum.If give more than 15,0 volts or small than 12.5 change relay rectifier.

Feb 15, 2015 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have a 2000 honda f4 that's giving charging


No it does not matter. That is why they all have the same color.
If you check for resistance with an Ohm meter between either one of the yellow wires and the chassis there should not be any (infinite resistance means stator is OK).
Measure the output voltage between each pair of the yellow wires (3 measurements). At idle you should get 12-15V and at 5000rpm more than 40V on each pair.
If all the above stand correct you probably need a new regulator/rectifier assy.

Oct 12, 2012 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have 2007 Suzki VL 1500/T I in stalled a new battery and I drove it 200 miles nand the battery need to be recharged, The sistem is not charging the battery, All the fusees are good and All the wiring...


First check all the conections on and around the regulator rectifier, also alternator, disconect the rectifier, carefully observe the unit for corrosion, and visible damage to the unit like burning to the rear bakalite construction, and the three yellow wires on the unit, the three yellow wires come from the alternator, converting the ac voltage to dc charging the battery via red wire, check the alternator output on the three yellows with the engine running they should all be around the same voltage,

May 03, 2011 | Suzuki Boulevard C90T Motorcycles

2 Answers

I have the 02 vfr800 and it keep killing batteries. i think the alternator is dying but others tell me it might be the rectifier regulator. does anyone have a way of testing either or both devices so i...


hi this might help,normally if the alternator/generater fails you will get no charge voltage at all,if your bike is fitted with an alternator(most later honda models are)then you will have a rectifier and regulator,the rectifier converts the ac voltage from the alternator to dc voltage which is then fed through the regulator and then onto the battery,if the bike is fitted with a generator then you will still have a regulator but no rectifier,a generator develops dc voltage at its source so a rectifier is not needed,a simple way to test the system is with a simple digital volt meter,these are very cheap and reliable and can be got for around 20 bucks,with the engine running at about 1500 -2000rpm test the voltage across the battery with the meter normall voltage at charge should be between 13.8 and 14.8 volts,if you are getting more that this then the regulator is faulty,another way to test the regulator is to slowly lift the engine rpm from idle through to about 3 or 4000rpm the voltage across the battery should not rise any higher than about 14.2-14.8 and it should reach its peak at about 2-2500rpm and not fluctuate more than about 1 volt across the rev range,if the voltage exceeds about 14.8 or fluctuates excessively with engine revs then the regulator needs to be replaced.hope this helps...cheers ian

Feb 06, 2010 | 2002 Honda VFR 800

1 Answer

Charging failure on a 1987 fz600


The generator will produce ac voltage not dc so the meter needs to read ac voltage. the readings need to be taken between the three wires using two at a time until all combinations have been tried. readings should all be the same. Engine will have to be run at about 5000rpm while readings are obtained. Other possible problem could be the regulator / rectifier unit breaking down when hot.

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2 Answers

2002 suzuki intruder vl1500 not charging battery


Check the voltage across the battery with the engine running - it should be greater than 13.5V. 
If less, then you have a failure in your charging system, either the stator and/or the Rectifier/Regulator. 
See this personally authored diagnostic guide on how to determine which part is defective. Also has a recommendation for excellent replacement as opposed to std OEM. 
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

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2 Answers

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Sounds like a charging issue. First check all wires and make sure they are clean and making good contact, then check for proper voltage at the battery. I ride a harly so I don't know the exact voltage to look for but it most likly is around 13V at the battery if it isn't you need to look at your voltage regulator and stator.

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2 Answers

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, pls re-check your voltage regulator. Common/usual signs would be discoloration of the connector, burned/corroded spade lugs of connector, partial melting of the epoxy/plastic packing, the 3 same colored wires (usually yellow) looks bloated/heated up.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

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