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Mike Gregory Posted on Jul 26, 2016

Leak from drain tube when motor is stopped from running.

I have fitted new float valve and adjusted float height.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 18, 2009

SOURCE: BMW R80 1987 Leaky Bing carburettor…

I had the same deal.  After the rebuild kit, it still happened.  Against the advice of my mechanic, I filed the top of the float ever so slightly, decreasing the chance for the top of the float to come into contact with the dome of the carb.  2 years later, no leaks.  And always - always - turn off the fuel when not mobile ;>)

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tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 23, 2009

SOURCE: Fuel Leak from the Carburetor

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Check the float as they can go bad and fill with gas such that they no longer float. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. The idle speed will probably different so adjust the idle screw to get back to where it was. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Anonymous

  • 126 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 16, 2009

SOURCE: float hieght for 1984 IT 490

not sure of the exact height, but if you hold the carb level with fuel hose attached and pushing float up with finger, turn on petcok and slowly lower the float until it is just above horizontal. at this point, gas should start to flow out of the needle & seat.

if float turns off gas too soon, then engine will starve.

if float doesn't turn off gas, then it will flow out of the carb overflow tube.

Anonymous

  • 3600 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 23, 2009

SOURCE: float height 1996 gsx r750T. Where exactly on the

you put it on the float base and allow the float to drop down and read the gauge where the float is read the top of the oppiste side where the float is hinged.

czaa

Arnie Burke

  • 7339 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 05, 2009

SOURCE: Just inherited 1973 Yamaha enduro DT100A. cleaned

u made my day by goin oldschool-sounds like the floats r stickin or bent-if u buy a clymer manual theyll show in detail disassembly n specs-walnecks classic mag would be worth a google

Testimonial: "If she fires most likely I'll get a service manual"

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Water keeps filling in toliet even after full

hi Patricia.
Overview Toilets haven't changed much in the last 80 years. After a flush, water still fills a tank, lifting a float that shuts off the water when it reaches a certain level. A lever still opens a flapper to cause the flush, falling back into place when the water level drops. So it's no surprise (nor any consolation) that we face the same flush problems today that our grandparents did. Sometimes the flush is too wimpy, sometimes the toilet keeps running, and sometimes the bowl doesn't refill.
Our ace plumbing consultant has a simple four-step strategy to solve 95 percent of these problems. You can complete the first three steps in five minutes. That'll solve most problems. The fourth step is usually easy too, but not always. More on this later. These steps work for most toilets but not for pressure-assist models.
Check the fill tube

Overflow tube problem

Push the fill tube firmly onto the fill valve. Make sure the fill tube sends water into the overflow tube.Remove the tank lid and find the fill tube. It's a small flexible tube that runs from the fill valve to the overflow tube. While the tank refills, this tube squirts enough water down the overflow tube to refill the bowl after the completed flush. If this tube falls off or the water stream misses the overflow tube, the bowl won't fill and your next flush will be wimpy (that is, won't develop a strong siphon). Reattach the fill tube and make sure it perches about 1 in. above the rim of the overflow tube. Flush the toilet and watch the water stream to make sure it goes down the overflow tube.
Adjust the fill height

Check the float

Adjust the float to set the water level. Pinch the clip and slide the float up or down on the rod. Keep adjusting the float until the water shuts off at the proper level.The water level in the tank is controlled by an adjustable float. A float that's set too low produces a weak flush; if it's set too high, water spills into the overflow tube and the fill valve won't shut off. The toilet keeps running. Look for the fill level mark on the inside back of the tank and mark it on the overflow tube so you can see it more easily. If you can't find it, measure down about 1 in. on the overflow tube and make a mark. Then flush the toilet and see if the water reaches and stops at that mark. If not and the toilet keeps running, adjust the float up or down. If you have an old toilet, you'll have to bend the brass rod that connects to the float ball to make adjustments. But with newer toilets you usually turn a screw or slide a clip along a rod. Flush the toilet after each adjustment.
Also make sure that the water level is at least an inch below the C-L (critical level) marked on the fill valve. You can adjust the height of many valves to raise or lower the C-L.
Occasionally the fill valve simply won't shut off, which means that it's defective. If so, turn the water supply off at the shutoff under the tank. Buy a replacement valve (sold at hardware stores and home centers). You don't have to match the old one; many, like the one shown, fit most toilets. It's a 15-minute change-out.
Adjust the flush handle/flapper chain

Flapper chain fix

Adjust the chain to leave a little slack with the flapper closed. Then cut off the excess, leaving about an inch.A chain that's too short or tangled won't allow the flapper to close and water will continue to leak into the bowl. This causes the fill valve to cycle on and off to refill the tank. A chain that's too long, or a flush rod that hits the the tank lid, won't open the flapper wide enough to stay open for the full flush. You'll find yourself having to hold the lever to complete a good flush.
To avoid these problems, adjust the linkage in the chain to leave only a slight bit of slack when closed. Cut the chain at the rod to leave only about an inch extra to reduce the potential for tangles. Then put the tank lid back on and make sure the flush rod doesn't strike the lid when you press the lever. If it does, bend it down slightly and readjust the chain.
Replace the flapper

Change the flapper

Unsnap the old flapper and take it with you to the store to find an exact replacement. In addition to the closest replacement, pick up a "universal" type.If you've completed the first three steps and your toilet keeps running, chances are you have a worn-out flapper. Turn off the water, remove the old flapper and take it to the store to find an exact replacement. (Hardware stores often carry a wide variety.) Most flappers snap over ears on the overflow tube. Others have a ring that slips over the tube.
Now here's the catch. You may not find an exact match. The range of flapper styles has mushroomed over the last 15 years, and you may find 15 to 20 flapper options on the store shelf. Some packages include specific brand and model information (so note yours before you leave home). Others have a "universal" label. If you can't find an exact replacement, try the closest one and pick up a universal type as well. They're cheap, and the extra one just might save you a second trip to the store! (Avoid the "adjustable" types unless you're replacing an adjustable one.)
Install the new flapper and make sure it opens and closes freely. Then test it. If the toilet keeps running or runs intermittently, you're not getting a good seal. Try a different flapper if the toilet won't stop running.
If you just can't find a flapper that seals, consider replacing the entire overflow tube/flapper. On most toilets (two-piece), this means removing the tank. It's not difficult and you don't need special tools. It'll take you about an hour, and you'll avoid that expensive plumber service call.
if you go to this link it will show you step by step on how to fix it. How to Stop Running Toilet Family Handyman
Nov 27, 2017 • Home
tip

How to adjust a toilet

  • Your toilet tank may simply need a good "tune-up." Here are some adjustments you can make.

  • Refill valve. If your tank has a conventional ballcock refill valve, the water level is adjusted by bending the float arm. The level should be high enough for complete flushes, but the water should not be to the top of the overflow pipe. Your tank should have a colored or molded water level mark. It should never be set so low that the bowl does not refill with trap sealing water. The rule of thumb is to set the water level about 3/4" below the top of the overflow pipe.

  • If the float rubs on other parts, simply adjust the float arm sideways. If the float lacks buoyancy, unscrew then shake it to determine if it is waterlogged. A waterlogged float should be replaced. The float arm can also be replaced, if needed.

  • In tanks using modern plastic refill valves, the tank water level is adjusted in other ways. If your tank uses a hand nut, turn the nut clockwise to raise, or counterclockwise to lower, the water level. Or, your tank may have a sliding pinch clamp on an adjustment rod.

  • Flush valve. Replacements for a flush ball and its actuating mechanism are available, but it may be possible to stop a leak with minor adjustments. Check the following mechanisms before purchasing replacements.

  • See that the guide arm is centered directly over the seat. The guide arm should drop the flush ball directly into its seat. If the flush ball is not seating properly, make the adjustment shown.

  • The guide arm should allow the flush ball to rise enough for a complete flush. If not, raise the arm. Be careful that it isn't too high–then it will prevent the ball from closing completely.

  • Check that the upper lift wire pulls the flush ball high enough. To adjust it, simply bend the wire for a higher or lower lift.

  • The lifting hardware on a flapper-type flush valve should raise the rubber flapper to start a flush, but should not hold the flapper up off its seat. If this is occurring, the hardware is adjusted too short. Some types allow you to slide the flapper itself up or down on the refill tube to ensure that the flapper meets the valve seat squarely. The lifting hardware and flapper height adjustments are the first things to check when flapper problems arise.

  • Refill tube. If the bowl-refill tube is out of place, water is routed directly into the tank, rather than replenishing water in the bowl. When this is the case, you will likely hear splashing sounds during tank refill. The refill tube should aim directly into the overflow pipe but should not reach below water level. If the tube extends too low, it will siphon tank water silently away. Fix it by repositioning as shown.

  • Defective refill tubes on some valves can be replaced with new plastic ones. Simply place one end of the plastic tube over the serrated plastic lug on the body of the valve, and place the plastic holder in the top of the overflow pipe.
  • on Jan 16, 2010 • Plumbing
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    1answer

    Float height of carberator please

    you adjust it by bendng the small tab on the float that presses on the end of the float needle,to check it is right find a length of clear tubing and put it on the small pipe bit that is on the bottom of the float bowl ,then bend it around the carb and point it upward s,then undo the drain screw on the float bowl and the fuel will come up the pipe and when it stops that is the same level as the fuel in the float bowl.its usually about 2/3 of the way up the float bowl.to low and it can starve it of fuel and too high it will flood and leak out.
    Dec 03, 2015 • Motorcycles
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    1answer

    I justgot a 95 kawasaki 500. i just cleaned the carbs and put in a fuel filter. i put bike back together. there is a black tube running out the back of the bike starting from after the carberatuor an

    Its probably the crankcase vent. The carbs have more than likely been pouring gas inside the motor,to the point of overfilling the crankcase oil with gasoline. Drain the oil and change the filter. And while youre draing it,..look inside the carb bodies,and see if gas is still running into the cylinders.If it is,then your float height is not set correctly..(too high)...or the needle valves need to be replaced. (valve that hooks onto the floats).
    0helpful
    1answer

    Gl1200 float level

    My first guess would be the float bowl for the carburetor. The fuel level needs to be maintained at a specific height in the bowl. There's a float inside that activates a valve which allows fuel to fill the bowl - once the correct level is reached, the valve closes. On my old Virago there were simply two tangs inside as I recall that needed to be bent manually to make the adjustment. To check the level you would attach a piece of clear tubing to the drain port on the bottom of the bowl.....when the drain was opened the fuel would fill the tube to the same level as is in the bowl. You would need to find the correct spec for that level and adjust if necessary.
    0helpful
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    Problem with starting my bike

    Sticking floats or worn float valve needles or incorrect float height, tap float bowls to see it overflow stops (sticky float), remove and clean float bowls and fuel inlet passage with carb cleaner and compressed air, check float valve for wear to the rubber tip. Reset float height by slightly bending the metal tab on the float to adjust the closing height of the valve measure from the carb bowl mating surface to the top of the float when fitted then re adjust 1mm at a time higher untill fuel doesnt over flow.
    0helpful
    1answer

    Toilet runs on

    check your flapper valve. Is it seating corretcly? Check the lenght of the flapper chain is it too long? Make sure the handle is tight so adjustment is correct. Check float to see where water level is. Is it above drain tube? If so move float down to decrease water height.
    0helpful
    2answers

    Toilet system will not completely stop dripping, resulting in constant drip from overflow. How do I stop it?

    Is the drip comming from the small fill tube going into the overflow? If so you may need to raise it a little. The nost common leak is from the flapper or seal. On rare occasioms the flush valve itself has a defect that will cause it to leak. Take a close look at the problem and Im sure you will find it. I hope this helps.
    May 14, 2010 • Home
    0helpful
    1answer

    Just need the height setting for the floats the

    YOU CAN ADJUST FLOATS WITHOUT SPECIAL TOOLS. ALL YOU NEED IS A FOOT LONG PIECE OF CLEAR TUBING, SIZED TO FIT THE BOWL DRAIN. SET FLOATS AS CLOSE TO WHAT THEY WERE WHEN YOU REPLACED IT. INSTALL THE BOWL AND PUT THE TUBE ON THE DRAIN. OPEN THE BOWL DRAIN SCREW WHILE HOLDING THE TUBE UP BESIDE THE CARB. WHEN YOU GET THE TUBE BESIDE THE CARB ASSY., THE GAS IN THE TUBE SHOWS YOU THE EXACT LEVEL OF FUEL IN THE BOWL. FROM THIS YOU CAN MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENTS NECESSARY FOR CORRECT LEVEL. THE LEVEL SHOULD BE RIGHT BELOW THE PLANE WHERE THE BOWL MEETS THE CARB BASE.
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