How do I know what wire feeds from the ignition switch to the cdi as none of the colour match at both ends

Mike you say you ran down the wiring and the ignition was not touched.Correct? The coils generate spark but you need a source to draw from. Check your stator to make sure it is not fielded(Grounded) with a bad wire.Battery up to par. CDI box or points and condenser check out. All of these will cause no spark to be generated .Spark Plugs check? before you replace the CDI box rule everything else first. Fuses for ignition will also not allow spark.Kill switch grounded out. Ignition switch ok. Check the flow of continuity .Coils should register between 0.5 and 0.4 . 4.0 is bad. repair manual is a must for this . Libiary is a good place to find 1

There are three possible sources of power. 1. The light control assay is a module that determines when to cut power to the lights when at idle or starting the engine... it can fail and prevent power from going to the lights. 2. The CDI. It sends a signal to the Light Control Module... if no signal, no lights. 3. The light switch. The wires can get lose and prevent power from going to the LCM. Start at the Switches. Test for power from the switch, if no power from the switch, make sure power is going to the switch. Flip the switch from low to hi beam too, test both lines. The CDI is a bit trickier to test but there is a wire to the LCM that can be powered when the bike is running (a bad CDI is diagnosed after everything else though as it is difficult to test and very unusual to happen). If power is going to the LCM, that rules out the switches. If you confirm power to the LCM, and power from the CDI (a signal from it at least), then its a bad LCM. But check your light bulbs before doing anything. If you bypass the LCM on an American bike (connecting the blue wire to the LCM to the blue wire from the LCM together), it will blow the fuse but some European and Phillipine models work without the LCM. LCM's and CDI's aren't cheap so have a professional confirm the parts are bad before replacing.

it doesn't sound as though you have the cdi feed wire correct

iF YOU ARE NOT GETTING A SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER THEN
1 CHECK FOR POWER TO COILS WITH A METER
IF NONE THEN SUSPECT :- THE IGNITION FUSE - VISUALLY CHECK THE WIRING - A BAD CONNECTION IN THE IGNITION CIRCUIT - THE KILL OR SIDESTAND OR CLUTCH SWITCH, OR EVEN THE IGNITION SWITCH.
2 IF THERE IS POWER THEN SUSPECT THE PICK-UP (PULSAR) COILS & WIRING FROM THERE TO THE CDI - & LASTLY BY A PROCESS OF ELIMINATION SUSPECT THE CDI (ITS GENERALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO CHECK THE CDI APART FROM VISUALLY & BY REPLACEMENT)

I HOPE THIS HELPS, IF SO PLEASE MARK AS USEFUL
RIDE-SAFE
BIKE-DOC

Check the side stand kill switch if your bike has one. It kills the engine so that you don’t start out with the side stand down. If broken or out of adjustment, it would kill the spark. Check for a broken wire at the side stand switch and coupler. Try moving the kill switch by hand. If that doesn’t work then wire a jumper around the switch to bypass it. Check the fuses. How good is the battery? Try a jump start from your car battery. Is the handlebar kill switch on? Check the operation of the ignition switch and all kill switches with a volt ohmmeter. Install new spark plug.

If that doesn't do it, check the wiring harness. Did a wire come unplugged? Are all wires clean and with solid connections? Any abraded or pinched wires? Is the bike in neutral and the neutral light is lit up? If no neutral light, check the neutral switch and neutral switch wire on center casing. If still no spark, get CDI system and coils checked at the dealers shop. You can screw up a CDI unit checking it yourself.

Every component plays a part in the ignition system. Check the wiring as you go. Start at one end and move forward. You have done a lot of work so far. so you should be close. If the igniter is fine and the other components too. Then it would narrow it down to an electrical problem or no signal/pulse to the coil. See if the coil is receiving that pulse. you can use a test light for this test. Pos. will be power and NEG. will be the pulse. With light on the NEG. crank the engine over and see if it flashes. Let me know how its going.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

With the indulgence of roudrunning1, a couple of initial checks when starting:

• verify that the black wire of the ignition coil is grounded;
• check for a high pulsating voltage on the orange wire;
• check for the presence/absence of voltage on the red/white wire;
• if none, check for the presence/absence of voltage on the brown wire before the kill switch;
• if none, check for the presence/absence of voltage on the red wire before the ignition switch;
• verify that there is no voltage read on the blue/white wire to the CDI;
• verify that there is very low 0.5VAC on the green/white wire to the CDI;
• ensure that it is in neutral when starting;
• try starting with the clutch lever pulled.

Postback results of above tests.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

There are a # of things that can take your spark out, first I would see if you have power to your ignition coil (100V+). If none there you need to isolate your ignition switch (unplug it or take it out of the equation) and jump your starter solenoid manually or try pushstarting the bike. If still nothing check for voltage going into your CDI box, if none check for voltage out of your stator (over 100V) and your trigger or pulse coil (over 3V). If you find voltage at the stator and not the trigger replace the trigger and vice versa. If there is voltage for both replace CDI box (but be cautious to verify good ground for CDI box and ignition coil). If you find voltage out of your CDI box (over 100V) replace your ignition coil. Good luck!