Why is the motor dying when put in gear?

Duplicate question already answered

It sounds like your alternator is not charging the battery. Fit a new battery remember to undo negative lead first to remove and fit positive lead first to refit the battery. When the new battery is filled please charge it using less than 1 Amp DO NOT use a car charger or try to jump start it. Your new battery should show 12.5 to 13 volts on a meter for a 12 volt system and 6.3 to near 7 volts for a 6 volt system. Start the scooter and check across the battery terminals your meter should show about 14.4 V for 12 volt battery and about 7.5 V for a 6 Volt one. No voltage increase means your charging circuit is not working. Either the alternator or rectifier(regulator) are not operating correctly. Worst case scenario is both units dead.

If you're getting vapor lock, the bike will die after a few miles, and not restart for several minutes.
If the bike dies, immediately remove the gas cap and see if the bike will restart right away.
You could also ride it without the gas cap (try it on a tank that's 1/4-1/2 full, NOT fully full, because of gas splash) and see if it doesn't die after a few miles.

check coil and grounds

Its probably your computer. Had the same thing happen to me about ten years back. About 500 dollars. better off finding one on ebay or at a junk yard.

sounds like a fuel delivery problem

spark plug buddy try new ones and get back to me

If your kickstand is down it will die on you.

though if it was a problem it would have blown the 10amp fuse????Don't rely on on whether the bike will start at a gas station to determine if the charging system is working. Get the multimeter out and do a proper test. Should be getting about 14.5 volts @ around 3K RPM. It's too easy of a test to to just skip. If it is charging then start looking for something else. Was the new battery properly charged to begin with? Loose battery connection? I suppose the GPS could be too much but you said that it was dying last november so I would suspect something else. P.S. you need a properly charged battery to get an accurate reading for the charging test. ,,,

everything working perfect. Wednesday night i was riding home from work and got about halfway home bike had a small bog while coming up for a turn onto another street pulled in the clutch and stall. Rolled to a stop and fired the magic button. The motor would turn over and act like it wanted to run (had to give a small amount of throttle) for about 2-3 seconds and then would die. Did this about 5 times and the typical dead or low batter clicking occured. Got the bike home and it has been on the tender for the last 2 days and i just put some time in on the bike and sure enough bike will turn over although kida sputtering and making slight backfire sounds (almost as if timing is off) and will run for about 2-3 seconds and dies. I can do this about 4-5 times and the infamous clicking starts to happen again. Now my bike has never been a cold start bike, i always have to give it a bit of throttle when its cold to keep it running, but once it warms up runs like a champ...or atleast it used to. Its a fairly new battery and has been kept on the tender when the bike is not used for a few days. Now the other thing that bothers me is it seems that oil may be seeping out from where the head and the case meet, but very little. The motor does have a slight coating of oil around the gasket area. I did send the motor to ATK back in late 04 or 05 and had the reliability and upgrade done to it but have only about 500 total miles on it since then, with about 400 of those in the last coulple of months. ,Even with a good bike battery 4-5 tries is about all they have.So forget about the battery and go with basics fuel,compression and spark. Also sounds like you need some mapping help, you should never have to touch the throttle when starting. The will run perfect if they are tuned. Do you know what map is in it? Did ATK also change the ECU to a .atj map?,,,