A bearing in the bottom end of the connecting rod let go and my piston head started hitting the top of the piston sleeve. Do I have to replace my piston head or my connecting rod

1. Top end is the replacement of cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, valves, valve springs, valve guides, valve oil seals, cylinder heads resurfaced, and checked for cracks. (Magna fluxed)
2. Bottom end is engine block resurfaced & checked for cracks, Cylinders honed, crank bearing resurfaced/re-rounded, crank rebalance, new crank bearings. New connecting rods, new rod bearings, new pistons, new piston rings, new freeze out plugs, new front & rear crank seals, new oil pump.

Here's the scoop.
Underneath that piston is a wrist pin, and then a connecting rod, and then a bearing that goes around the crankshaft. The bearing is split into two pieces, upper and lower. Some folks have put the engine together, as you wish to do. The top of the piston is engineered to be a certain way. if there is a tiny imperfection, what might (maybe) happen is pre-ignition, if that part of the piston heats hotter than the surrounding surface, and will cause the engine to run poorly. Next, if the valve hit the piston, there might be some tiny damage to the connecting rod, the wrist pin, or mainly, the bearing on the crankshaft. Probably all you would see is the engine would throw a rod in the next 5,000 miles, or sooner.
I share your desire to save money and time on this. If you decide to button it up, please take some fine sandpaper and a good shop vacuum and try to smooth the imperfections in the top of the piston and vacuum all dust and shavings up as you work.
Be blessed.

you have to remove engine from vechicle .drain oil out.you have to remove cylinder heads and tilt engine around on engine stand you have to remove oil pan then remove rod bearings caps bolts remove cap.put piece rubber hose on rod studs protect crankshaft. then you tap piston using piece of wood tap piston from bottom worn it out from top of cylinder head.

Bummer. Usually you need to drop the oil pan, pull the rod and piston out, replace the sleeve, and use a ring comprssor to get the piston back into the cylinder and then put it all back together EXACTLY how it came apart including position on the sleeves, rods and bearings. I have not done this on a VW but I do not see this being much different than any other car that I have worked on. No matter what it will be a huge pain in the ***.

There should be no play up and down. Any play is coming from a worn out needle bearing on the crank. A bit side to side is okay and normal. The crank will need to come out then it gets pressed apart and fitted with a new bearing. Price out the difference in cost of fixing the crank verses getting a new $170 crank assembly.What probably happened is a broken piston ring extended into a cylinder port and the piston against the ring is what gouged the cylinder and head. Please rate my answer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Air-compressor-Parts/Model-919165020/0247/0703000 This is the exploded view that I used.

67 head 65 gasket 64 reed valve plate 63 ring,this one goes under the reed valve plate 62 screw that goes thru the 61 piston 60is a ring that sets on the top of the connecting rod screw the piston with the ring into the top of the connecting rod then take the connecting rod end cap off and cover the studs with some rubber tubing.This will protect the crankshaft when you push connecting rod and piston assembly in to the sleeve that is seated in the block.The ring should be flexible enough to push into the sleeve,if not a bit of oil should help.Guide the connecting rod on to the the crank shaft.I hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.com

Owner's Manual - CRAFTSMAN Air compressor 919165020, 919165050, 919165090, 919165230, 919167330, 919165221, 919165070, 919165310, 919164200, 919165060, 919165300, 919152922, 919165250, 919186430, 919155613, 919164150, 919165030, 919165130, 919165500, MG2-OILFREE, 919165110, 919167200, 919165000 - ManageMyLife.com

This is for a 3.3L motor
Hope this helps, it it does please leave feedback and vote Thank You and Good Luck

REMOVAL

1. Release hood latch and open hood.

Removal/Installation of Battery Cables

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove windshield wiper housing, refer to the Windshield Wipers and Washers for proper procedures.
3. Remove accessory drive belt.

Generator Mounting Bracket

1. Remove bolt holding top of generator mount bracket to engine air intake plenum.
2. Remove bolts holding outside of generator mount bracket to generator mount plate.
3. Remove bolt holding top of generator to mount bracket.
4. Remove generator mount bracket from vehicle.
5. Rotate generator toward rear dash panel.

Generator

1. Disconnect the push-in field wire connector . from back of generator.
2. Remove nut holding B+ wire terminal to back of generator.
3. Separate B+ terminal from generator.

Generator Pivot Bolt

1. Remove bolt holding bottom of generator to lower pivot bracket.

Generator

1. Remove generator from vehicle

INSTALLATION

1. Place generator in position on vehicle.
2. Install bolt to hold bottom of generator to lower pivot bracket.
3. Place B+ terminal in position on generator.
4. Install nut to hold B+ wire terminal to back of generator.
5. Connect the push-in field wire connector into back of generator.
6. Rotate generator forward away from dash panel.
7. Place generator mount bracket in position on vehicle.
8. Install bolt to hold top of generator to mount bracket.
9. Install bolts to hold outside of generator mount bracket to generator mount plate.
10. Install bolt to hold top of generator mount bracket to engine air intake plenum.
11. Install accessory drive belt.
12. Install windshield wiper housing, refer to the Windshield Wipers and Washers for proper procedures.
13. Connect battery negative cable.
14. Verify generator charge rate.

It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods

1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
   1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
   2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
   3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
   4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
   5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge
      
      
   6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert
      
   
   
2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston
   
   
4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer
   
   
5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).

OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY

1. Install the camshaft.
2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.

CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).

OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.

Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.

1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
   Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
   
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.

If you need to replace a rod, generally you have a bearing problem that requires crankshaft removal/replacement as well. If you have a bad wrist-pin on the small end of the rod or the rod bent from hydro-lock and bearings are good, you need to remove the oil pan and the cylinder head as the piston/rod assembly comes out from the top.
If you have a spun bearing or broken rod, the entire engine needs to be removed, completely torn down and all passages flushed...far easier to replace engine with a good used one.
To do either, you will need a manual to guide you through the process (far too long to write out here) Sorry I need to tell you this but that's just the way it is...better you know before even attempting to do the job.