What wires to test coil and stator. no spark.

I am wondering how you know these wires are shorted?

Having replaced the entire ignition system, it would be safe to assume if one component had been faulty it should now spark so clearly something else is wrong.

Scooters and motorcycles tend to have complex wiring and with many modern examples including an anti-theft system, troubleshooting faults is difficult and without a wiring diagram is very difficult and time-consuming even for experts, near impossible for the uninitiated...
Even when testing a stator you need to know where the coils terminate, additionally it is useful to know when testing those coils with an ohmmeter, the resistance will be so low it will look like a short circuit with most analogue meters.

Even if there is no anti-theft system, if the ignition switch is on the instrument panel, ignition related wiring goes to the ignition switch and back again and it doesn't even need a faulty switch to stop the engine starting, a single corroded terminal or connector would be enough...

Really you either need a manual for the machine and hope it gives you an ohms test sequence or another running bike the same to test your parts on.have you not tried disconnecting the kill switch or ignition switch first that's my first point of reference.

Start with new plug ., then work your way to stator ., so plug., plug wire ,.coil.,, cdi ., stator.,., easy to test all them and chase your faulty part

multi metre and test output on ht , cap , and coil first ! check output on stator on voltage setting !

No spark can be attributed to two components; The stator or the trigger assembly. Even if you had a diagram (available online @ Mercury), you will still need a test harness,a DVA adapter and a meter to measure the resistance of the CDM's (capacitor discharge module) ,stator and trigger assembly. Best case fix would be the trigger, most expensive would be the stator. If you remove the flywheel, and inspect the stator, you can inspect the the coils that are coated with a white epoxy, and if one or more are bad, they sometimes leak a black resin, indicating the coil(s) have been shorted and no longer provide voltage for spark.

The first thing is do you know when the last time was that the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires were changed?

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require a firing order diagram any further assistance with testing or diagnostic procedures.

well the stator doesn't give spark it give voltage and if you test it and the is voltage and you have replaced all that stuff with good ones then it is your cdi box.

to test the stator for voltage take a multimeter on the ac scale and test the output of the stator while kicking the bike over if you have voltage rising and falling then your stator is fine. if not you will need to test the pick coil in the stator area for a ground pulse this is what the cdi box uses as a reference for the position of crank shaft and piston. just like a crank sensor in a car. if there is ground pulse there when you back probe the wires coming out of the pick up then your cdi is for sure the issue. if you have any more question please ask. good luck

magneto stator can also be a solution check for AC power from stator while cranking the motor use sta-bil winterizing fluid to insure piston where during cranking process spray directly into spak plug holes with spark plus out 4 sprays into each cylinder should be enough crank motor without plugs for reduced compression and more cranking amps

If it ran before, I would double check your electrical connections. Its more likely you didn't get a connector pushed all the way together or left off a ground wire. The ignition coil specs are generally 1 ohm or less on the primary (small Wire) side, and 5K-10K ohms on the secondary (spark plug) side. Each side should be tested to ground. Pick-up coils are typically open or really large ohm reading in Megaohms normally and around 100 ohms when the magnet on the flywheel passes by. there is no way to test the CDI box other than putting it on a know running bike or getting a known good CDI and putting it on your bike. Double check that the spark plug cap is secured to the high tension lead as well. Testing the stator is a little more complicated, but a quick way is to close the gap on an old spark plug to about 0.010" and see if there is a week spark. If so, the stator will need to be replaced.

try replacing spark plug 1st set at proper gap. next take plug cap off wire by unscrewing it from wire. hold 1/4" from motor and crank. if none, trim 1/8" off wire and retry. your pulser coil could be out. get multimeter, get service manual, find resistance reading,unplug stator/pulser coil plug(S) follow manual test procedure for testing stator coil, and pulser. check ign coil,make sure grounded to frame,clean rust, check resistance readings(manual) or test system w/ known good unit. lastly check wiring for continuity if no fire.