How much does gearbox hold - 1997 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

Well at the time of writing this you had not bothered to indicate in your question what year and model of car you have and whether you are referring to an auto gearbox which takes AT Fluid or a manual gearbox which takes gearbox oil..

1 Remove battery earth cable.
2 Remove gear shift lever - usually just pulls out.
3 Remove starter motor.
4 Remove bolts holding prop shaft to gearbox final drive, and remove the prop shaft.
5 Remove all bolts around bell housing holding bell housing to engine.
6 Slide gearbox back to slide spigot shaft from clutch plate.
7 Slide gearbox from under vehicle.
Gearbox is now removed out.

4 speed gearbox is 3.5 litres

5 speed gearbox is 4.9 litres

Auto is 6.0 litres

1. Remove the center caps from the rear wheels
2. use a 13mm wrench on each side and loosen the bolts
3. remove the rear wheels and axle
4. remove the red pin at the front of the dump bed
5. remove the two black pins at the rear of the dump bed
6. remove the dump bed
7. lift the green plastic cover off
8. remove the two screws that hold the gearbox and motor to the body
9. remove the gearbox and motor assembly
10. remove the two screws that hold the motor to the gearbox

hi, there are 2 screws that hold the motor on the gearbox...there is no way to replace without removing the wheels, the screws are on the opposite side of the gearbox, sorry.
good luck!

remove the center cap from the wheels then you'll need 2 13mm wrenches one for each wheel to loosend the bolts at the same time, then remove the dump box by removing the two black push pins at the rear of the bed, and the red push pin at the base of the dump handle, then lift up the green plastic and this will giove you acces to the motors and gearboxes, then pull the wheels off and the axle out then with a philips screwdriver there is two phillips screws holding each gearbox to the frame, remove those then remove the two wire attached to the motor then you can take the gearbox and motor out then remove the two screws that hold the motor to the gear box, then do all of that in opposite order to put it back together

their is an internal circlip that holds it in .it will come out with a gentle persuader,but if you are only changing a clutch then undo the big nut on the wheel end and hold gearbox up with a block and tackle ,then gearbox will come back enough to change the clutch,but you must lower the sub frame to get gearbox to come back enough.What i normally do if i have to get the gearbox out for whatever is to use a big crowbar and my 1kg hammer ,they always come out then .

If the washer makes a noise from the front bottom center, when not agitating and not spinning, the motor/gearbox coupling has broken.
closed open It is designed to break, if the load gets enough that the motor may be damaged and is simple (enough) to replace

whirlpoool 285753, parts common to whirlpool roper ge kenmore and about a dozen other brands.
dissassembly instructions vary slightly between models but close enough, some have 2 clips some 3

• remove trims from ends of control panel
• remove screws under trims
• raise control panel and flip it over backwards
  (note: do not dislodge air tube from level selector)
• remove brass retainer clips at rear corners
  (note: position for reinstall)
• remove lid switch connector
• remove lid and body

the motor and gearbox are now exposed

• undo bolt(s) holding spring clips to pump,
• remove spring clips holding pump to motor(note position for reinstall)
• unto bolt(s) holding spring clips to motor
• remove spring clips holding motor to gearbox
  (note position for reinstall)
• there will be a plastic 3 legged 'spider' on the gearbox, and one on the motor, and a rubber ring with 6 holes that match the positions of the legs
• remove the ring and spiders
• take the ring and spiders to the local parts guy and get replacement,
  (Note the local parts guy will have the replacement, it is common to ge, whirlpool, roper, kenmore, new maytag, frigidaire and many others.)
• use a piece of dowel, to hammer the center of the spider to the input shaft of the gearbox and the motor shaft,
  (note dont hit the legs they break.)
  (note: new spiders have metal center hubs, this is a common failure and the replacements have been strengthened)
• turn gearbox shaft 1 leg up 2 legs down
• turn motor shaft 2 legs up 1 leg down
• insert new rubber ring over gearbox spider
• insert motor into rubber ring

reinstall springclips
pump
pump springclips
body
control panel
in reverse order to above

gearbox coupling ~$17.00
time ~25 minutes, but I do 3-4/month

madindian1
jcf73
It is not the timer, it is a gearbox drive coupling, whirlpoool 285753, parts common to whirlpool roper ge and about a dozen other brands.
dissassembly instructions vary slightly between models

• remove trims from ends of control panel
• remove scres under trims
• raise control panel and flip it over backwards
  (note: do not dislodge air tube from level selector)
• remove brass retainer clips
  (note: position for reinstall)
• remove lid switch connector
• remove lid and body

the motor and gearbox are now exposed

• undo bolt(s) holding spring clips to pump,
• remove spring clips holding pump to motor(note position for reinstall)
• unto bolt(s) holding spring clips to motor
• remove spring clips holding motor to gearbox
  (note position for reinstall)
• there will be a plastic 3 legged 'spider' on the gearbox, and one on the motor, and a rubber ring with 6 holes that match the positions of the legs
• remove the ring and spiders
• take the ring and spiders to the local parts guy and get replacement,
  (Note the local parts guy will have the replacement, it is common to ge, whirlpool, roper, kenmore, new maytag, frigidaire and many others.)
• use a piece of dowel, to hammer the center of the spider to the input shaft of the gearbox and the motor shaft,
  (note dont hit the legs they break.)
  (note: new spiders have metal center hubs, this is a common failure and the replacements have been strengthened)
• turn gearbox shaft 1 leg up 2 legs down
• turn motor shaft 2 legs up 1 leg down
• insert new rubber ring over gearbox spider
• insert motor into rubber ring

reinstall springclips
pump
pump springclips
body
control panel
in reverse order to above

gearbox coupling ~$17.00
time ~25 minutes, but I do 3-4/month

usually it is a gearbox drive coupling, designed to break on exceptional loads
whirlpoool 285753, parts common to whirlpool roper ge kenmore and about a dozen other brands.
dissassembly instructions vary slightly between models

• remove trims from ends of control panel
• remove scres under trims
• raise control panel and flip it over backwards
  (note: do not dislodge air tube from level selector)
• remove brass retainer clips
  (note: position for reinstall)
• remove lid switch connector
• remove lid and body

the motor and gearbox are now exposed

• undo bolt(s) holding spring clips to pump,
• remove spring clips holding pump to motor(note position for reinstall)
• unto bolt(s) holding spring clips to motor
• remove spring clips holding motor to gearbox
  (note position for reinstall)
• there will be a plastic 3 legged 'spider' on the gearbox, and one on the motor, and a rubber ring with 6 holes that match the positions of the legs
• remove the ring and spiders
• take the ring and spiders to the local parts guy and get replacement,
  (Note the local parts guy will have the replacement, it is common to ge, whirlpool, roper, kenmore, new maytag, frigidaire and many others.)
• use a piece of dowel, to hammer the center of the spider to the input shaft of the gearbox and the motor shaft,
  (note dont hit the legs they break.)
  (note: new spiders have metal center hubs, this is a common failure and the replacements have been strengthened)
• turn gearbox shaft 1 leg up 2 legs down
• turn motor shaft 2 legs up 1 leg down
• insert new rubber ring over gearbox spider
• insert motor into rubber ring

reinstall springclips
pump
pump springclips
body
control panel
in reverse order to above

gearbox coupling ~$17.00
time ~25 minutes, but I do 3-4/month