Are you saying that when you put the bike into gear to pull away from standing, the engine cuts out? If so, then check your side stand switch. It is there to cut the engine out if you try to ride off with your stand down. Your stand may be up but the switch may be telling the engine it is down.
SOURCE: gear/clutch problem
does not seem like the waterpump. is the clutch set too loose?
usually in wire based clutches, if the clutch cable is set to be too loose, or if it is frayed, and needs replacement, the bike will jump and stall.
check that.
SOURCE: Road King Motorcycle clutch
Theres 2 clutch adjustments you can do - one is on the cable, under the boot, the other is at the clutch hub, under the derby cover in the primary. That should take care of the whine and your problem finding neutral. If you get some teflon spray and shoot it generously down the inside of your cable, you are gonna be surprized at how easy it'll pull
SOURCE: the 2003 WR250F keeps dying.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw on the outside throat of the carb and the air screw on the back left of the carb bore as seen from the filter. Spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
The carb has a diaphragm fuel primer pump Each time the throttle is cracked open the pump give a shot of gas. This is fine for take off but downshifting can create a rich mix. A rich mix promotes backfire. Just don't crack the throttle.
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SOURCE: Yamaha motorcycle stiff clutch
Disconnect the cable at the engine. Does the cable move freely when disconnected? If it does, remove the left side cover then check the operation of the clutch arm. Does it move freely and spring back freely? If not then clean it up. If it does move freely, remove the clutch push rod from the center case. Roll it on a flat surface. Does it roll smoothly or does it sort of lope along. If bent, replace it. If rolling smoothly then put it back in the center-case and remount the side casing. Lube the clutch cable and remount it also. The adjuster #23 should be screwed in until it is snug then back off the screw 1/4 turn.
Assuming no one has tinkered with the actual clutch and it was operating properly a few months ago or when it was put up for the winter, now is the time for an oil change. Dirty, gritty oil can stiffen a clutch big time. Drain the oil and refill with 10w40 motor oil. No synthetics or oils with "special" additives or friction reducers. No oil marked ECII. Just normal motor oil. Shell, Mobil, Pennzoil, etc., the major brands. Ride the bike for an hour or so then change the oil again. Doing this will flush most all of the grit from the gearbox. Hey, oil ain't that expensive. This should take care of the problem.
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SOURCE: Engine cuts out with clutch engaged.
is your bjke water cooled could have aproblem with that-its gettin hot-if air cooled carb may neede cleaning. the clutch is ok but indicates to me that that carb needs a low speed jet adjust also-do u have a clymer manual!!
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