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For the bottoming out, change the fork oil to a higher viscosity grade. Also, if your shocks have been leaking oil as seen by dirty, greasy fork tubes, you should change the fork seals. If leaking, and if bottoming is only recent, you can refill with the fork oil viscosity recommended originally (you may just be empty). Only increase oil by 5 wt at a time. I don't remember what the factory recommends but should be in your manual.
If your bike's suspension is bottoming out, it'll feel just like it did when you rode off the curb on your bicycle when you were young. Instead of the suspension absorbing the shock, you'd get a bone jarring slam when the suspension runs out of it's travel. In this case, you need to put more air pressure in your suspension system on your Ultra. If it is not an air suspension, adjust the rear shocks to a tighter preload and put a heavier weight oil put in the front forks.
Check the tension of the drive belt by having someone measure the deflection of the belt when ten pounds of force is applied to the middle of the lower belt run with you sitting on the bike. It should be about a 1/2" or so. Some bikes are different and since I don't have an owner's manual for all of them, I'd suggest calling the service department of your local dealer. They should be able to tell you the setting. They also sell a special tool for applying the ten pounds of force to the belt. It's not expensive either.
You will have to take it to a suspension shop. You need special tools to disassemble and recharge mono shocks. I'm surprised your friend was able to get any oil out of it though, normally this requires disassembly. You might have a problem with the shock. Either way, take it to a suspension shop. They usually don't charge much for recharging them.
The front forks can be stiffened by changing to a heavier weight fork oil. I run 30 weight oil in mine. Make sure you use fork oil because it has a special anti-foaming agent in it.
On the rear shocks, they're adjustable. Just turn the adjuster to put more pre-load on the springs. This requires a special shock adjuster tool.
If this bike has more than 15k on it the stock springs are likely worn out. Replace them with Progressive Suspension springs. They will last longer and the bike will rider better. They are also less expensive than stock replacements.
If it has a mono shock in back there are lowering links you can purchase and install to lower the rear and the front can be lowered by dropping the tubes in the trees or softening up the springs.
I would like to make a suggestion though...
If you lower the bike the suspension will not work as it was designed to.
This is an issue I am trying to overcome with my boy since we have moved to a bigger bike- he can not touch the ground without leaning the bike WAY over. To quote a famous short moto cross racer from the 70's- "they dont pay me to put my feet down". Even I at 6' 2" find it difficult to rest both feet on the ground on some of the newer dirt bikes. But if I do find one that I can rest both feet on the ground comfortably I soon find that I am bottoming out the suspension and riding over the limits of the bike.
This is just my personal opinion... I would rather ride a tall off road bike and have the suspension at hand than ride one thats comfortable at rest and not have that suspension when I need it. Unless you are going to be stopping at a bunch of stop signs then ride it the way it is or get a smaller bike ( maybe a 125).
it should be air adjustable, if the pump is working, most of the time the shocks leak. have a shop ck out the rear shocks, if they leak, then verify that the pump is operational. Monroe offers replacements.
you need to use the shock adjustment tool that came with the bike and just stick it in the adjustment holes typically located about half way up the rear shocks and turn it to the proper tension for you
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