Cylinoid could be bad which is quick fix. If not check magneto possibly need a new one or sometimes if it has rust on it you can take some sand paper to it...
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The 3000 mule I have worked on has a coil, wire which screws into the coil and spark plug boot.
Do you have power and ground connection at coil.
You said you replaced coil did the wire and spark plug boot get replaced also.
If there is any question about the connection between the coil, wire and boot you might try removing the coil, wire and boot from back cylinder and placing on front. Swap them and see if you loose spark on rear plug after swapping.
Just a thought.
You did not mention where the spark plug is when you see this blue spark, If it's still in the head with the spark plug cap on the spark plug.. replace the cap/wire/coil - probably a one piece unit. ..now, If the spark plug is out of the head, and the blue spark is jumping from the porcelain tip electrode straight to the curved tip electrode - that is GREAT! THE SPARK MUST jump STRAIGHT across the electrodes... sometimes it's really hard to see if it's jumping around the side of the porcelain tower, then to the tip..this is a fouled condition and it won't run - even though its a bright blue spark!! Seen it too many times!!
The figure 7 represents the heat range of the plug. Usually it is unwise to deviate from specifications unless problems force choosing a different heat range. If the spark plug regularly fouls then a hotter spark plug could improve the problem - with NGK that would mean moving from 5 to 4.
Any move must be made with care to avoid the engine damage possible if the spark plug is too hot.
Hot and cold plugs, incidentally, indicate the amount of heat the spark plug dissipates from the centre to the body and doesn't affect the temperature of the engine. Broadly cool running engines need hot spark plugs and hot running engines need cold plugs so in each case the spark plug nose will achieve the self-cleaning temperature without becoming too heated.
Moving from a 5 heat range to a 7 (NGK) is moving to a colder plug so yes it will run fine, at least for a while, though you could find plug fouling might be a problem...
I first check both spark plug and coil.. Pull spark plug out and visually inspect for any dirt touching both electrodes... Next, Plug the spark plug back into the spark plug lead and earth it to the motor(make sure the spark plug is touching metal)then try turning the motor to see if the spark plug is sparking...
Also the link below is a short YouTube video showing the right colour spark and I never thought about it but it should spark over the top of the centre electrode, How to check for Spark Plug Fire in any engine
If it does spark then it's a fuel problem. Check the needle and seat in your carby, You need to pull your carby off and unscrew the bottom half from the top, 1st sign of a needle stuck inside the seat
is a dry carby There you'll find the float, push the float up and down and see if the needle above
the float slides up and down from the seat, If the needle stays up then it's stuck and NOT letting
the fuel into the carby, Just pull it down with your fingers to loosen it up..I hope this helps.... CHEERS..
Most quads Have the spark plug on top of the engine. In order to change a spark plug you need to remove the plug wire, Take a rachet with the size of the Plug, then remove the plug. Insert the new plug, Rinse, Repeat.
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