My battery/lights come on but when i start the ignition switch unless my battery has charging leads connected (in which case it starts immediately) it wont start. Tried to bump start it but fund it extra difficult gto get into first or any gear, was clicking and moving but wouldnt quite click into gear, Finally after charginging with pals leads again, started immediatly, went into gear as usual, rode for a bit got off, turned her off and back on again and same problem, switch wouldnt start again???Please help me, im a girl hahaha

Economy mode usually comes on when the computer senses a low charge on the battery and conserves power to start the vehicle.
1. If you can start the car by jump starting from another vehicle with its engine running then you know your battery is the problem. In some cases when you completely drain a battery you have issues with them ever after until they fail completely.

2. If you cannot jump start from another vehicle then turn everything off and disconnect the negative and then the positive lead on the battery terminals and leave it for 10 minutes. Then connect it back up again (positive lead first and then negative lead last) and put the key in the ignition and turn on the ignition but do not start the car. Leave it there for 5 minutes and then turn the ignition it off. Then try starting again.

3. You have not mentioned if there are any other warning lights being displayed on the dash which you have not mentioned in your question. Please check this carefully because it is also relevant to this problem if there are other warning lights displayed.

I would first start by checking the condition of the battery. The battery needs to be in a fully charged state.

Using a volt meter set in the DC range, the voltage reading should be steady and constant; around 12.4 to 12.6 volts dc.; if the battery charge is low, recharge it.

If the battery fails to charge or fails to maintain a charge, replace it.

Without getting too technical, a quick way to know that some sort of electrical problem exists, due to a defective or old battery; or perhaps even a faulty alternator that is responsible for recharging the battery, is to listen to the sound that occurs (or lack of it) when you turn the key.

No sound, dead battery is most likely the culprit.

Rapid clicking sound when you turn the key to crank the engine, weak battery voltage; again the battery has failed. Figuring out why it failed is another issue.

Is the battery old and at its end of life use?
Depending on the climate you live in, can also prematurely kill a battery- like from extreme bitter cold; even though you may have a 5 year battery and it's only 3 years old in use...batteries have been known to fail.

If you get an intermittent clicking sound when you turn the key to start it up, it can be the starter's solenoid.

There are a few other tests that can be done on a battery too.

If you want to do the test yourself, I will walk you through it. But at this time, I would recommend removing the battery and bringing it to your local auto supply store/warehouse like NAPA, Pepboys, AutoZone, etc. They'll test it free of charge for you. Again, if you want to be a do-it-yourself mechanic, but you don't have the proper tools, these auto stores offer tool and analyzer rentals.

I hope this helps for now- if you need more guidance, let me know. Kindest regards on your project!

Chechmultiplug on ignition switch forany bburn some of these ignition switches have rolling code

The FIRST question to answer is, how old is it? If you have had it, unused, for much more than a year, then you shouldn't expect it to take and hold a charge, unless it's got an advanced battery system installed that is. Most of these are produced 'down to a price', not 'up to a standard' and are equipped with lead-acid batteries. As many will know, lead-acid batteries soon lose their ability to take and hold charges unless they're put into immediate and regular use. However, if yours is inside a year old, then you might just have some come-back. Make sure to read the instruction book. You MAY find it says 'charge it immediately ... etc!

Check that you're getting charging current to battery. Voltage at battery terminals should read about 14.5 volts (well above 12 volts in any case). If not, a bad alternator may be failing to provide your battery with a full charge. If charging is good, and battery holds its charge, other possibilities are bad wiring connections to starter solenoid and/or starter motor, or bad ignition switch assembly.

Inspect/Test/Replace Hope this helps.

An ignition switch supplies voltage to the ignition control module and/or the ignition coil. Often an ignition sytem thas two wires connected to the run terminal of the ignition switch. On is connected to the module. The other is connected to the primary resistor and coil. The start terminal of the switch is also wired to the module.
You can check for voltage using either a 12-volt test light or a digital multimeter (dmm).
To use a test light:

• Turn the ignition key off and disconnect the wire connector at the module.
• Disconnect the S terminal of the starter solenoid to prevent the engine from cranking when the ignition is in the run position.
• Turn the key to the run position and probe the red wire connection to check for voltage.
• Check for voltage at the battery terminal of the ignition coil using the test light.
• Next, turn the key to the start position and check for voltage at the white wire connector at the module and the battery terminal of the ignition coil. If voltage is present, the switch and its circuit are okay.

To do the same test using a DMM:

• Turn the ignition switch to the off position and back-probe, with the meter's positive lead, the power feed wire at the module.
• Connect the meter's negative to a good ground at the distributor base.
• Turn the ignition to the run or start position as needed, and measure the voltage.
• The reading should be at least 90% of battery voltage.

Sounds like a battery problem.
Lead acid batteries should to be charged every 3 or 4 months even if they are not being used, or they can slowly self-discharge and will start to deteriorate if the voltage drops below about 12.2v (for a 12v batt.)
They can then be difficult or impossible to charge. The charger can see this as fully charged and show green.
You can test for this if you have a voltmeter. You should be able to work out if it's the battery or a connection (or the charger).
Measure the battery voltage (use a DC voltage range greater than 12V). The normal voltages you should see:
A) Key off, no charger: >12v, <14
B) Key off, charger connected: >12, <14.2, but higher than A)
C) Key on, no charger: >12, <14, but lower than A)

If voltage A) is low and immediately goes high when the charger is connected then the battery needs replacing.
If A) and B) are exactly the same then it could be the charger is not connecting or is faulty. Measure the charger output, should be >13.8v (unless it's an "intelligent" charger in which case it might need some voltage applied to its output before it starts charging).

Note: If A) and B) are low, say <8v it's possible that an "intelligent" charger will refuse to start charging. In this case it's probably worth jumping the battery to a good 12v battery (e.g. car). Be very careful to connect the batteries (+) to (+) and (-) to (-). Leave connected for 10 - 20min or even overnight and then disconnect jumper leads and check A) and B) again. Sometimes a battery can be recovered by this method (it's unlikely to regain full capacity though).

Lets start by knowing the year and model of Lincoln. A voltage regulator would not cause a no start unless the battery went dead because the charging system didn't work, in that case you would have had a red battery warning light on in the dash. 1st question after model and year info is has the battery been tested? Is the start signal leaving the ignition starter switch on the steering column, the older style ignition starter switches come apart and can cause this.

either the battery is not good or the battery terminals are bad.
the ignition lights should come on , if they do when the charger is connected.
I assume you are connecting the charger or jump cables to the battery terminals

Be careful jumping of a bigger battery it can spike the regulator when the engine starts and tries to produce 50-60 amps