I have 12.8 volts at both coils but nothing coming out of coils is it just bad coils,pulsar or Ecm

heres a service manuhttps://www.motorcyclemanuals.info/motocycles-atvs/arctic-cat/al to down load ------------

turn headlights on, measure voltage, if they don't come on the battery is bad

depending on the year of the car and whether it is a ECM controlled engine. The power for the coil normally comes from the ignition switch from both the start and run positions or from the ecm. IT passes through the coil and down to the distributor either to the points or the electronic module in the distributor. Engines not using an ecm have normally 2 wires to the coil on one terminal. One wire is for the start (12 volts) and the other is for the run (7.5 volts ) as it passes through a resistor or resistor wire. With an ECM on the engine you will have to get the coil voltage reading from the workshop manual

Do you have a spare coil to test? Coils can be a failure point as well.

You are at thhe right trail what controls spark is coil pack crank sensor sparkplugs and plug wire but the most important is power . I mean 12 volt connections and ground This includes checking fuses you need a simple volt meter doesnt have to expensive or fancy just to pick up 12 volts let start with fuses in the engine juction box (there not mark to what it belongs to) make sure none are open. especially fuse 19 and 24 , next go to the crank sensor make sure the tabs are snuggly on now to the coil pack there is a red and light green wire this comes from ignition and feeds 12 volts at the coil pack measure that voltage is it 12 volts if not correct it this is from ignition switch ( you can make a tool that feed 12 volt with a wire and a fuse in series and attatch it to battery and the primary wire this is known as hot wire) next go to the ECM wiggle the wires see if that get a connection going if not go back to the ICM here are the wire you are to measure the tan light green, this is from ECM and it is pulsed it measure 5vlts to 0 volts switched then measure the tan orange the same thing 5 volts to zero,then tan white again 5vlts to zero. any one of these 5 to zero fails you fix is the ecm

Ohm readings need to be taken on the Main coil & pulsar coil first. Kill switch & ignition switch need to be checked as well. If those pass then it is the CDI/ECU.

Dirty contacts in the ignition switch contact base. You may not be able to disassemble and clean your switch but you can check the wires for continuity. Your handle bar kill switch can also be be a source of intermittent spark.

First check any ignition/fuel related fuses. Check to make sure you have 12 volts coming into the pump and coil. If nothing to the fuel pump replace the fuel pump relay - if you do have power to the fuel pump then replace the pump. If nothing is coming to the coil it is either an ignition relay or a wiring issue. If you have 12 volts to the coil but no spark then replace the coil.
Also the fuel pump/relay would not kill the coil.

You might not have spark as the 12 volts needs a ballast resistor or the points burn out preytty quick. 8 volts at the coil in run with the points open and 0 with the points clsed and battery voltage at the coil when cranking. coil wire near the intake manifold while cranking should jump at least 2 inches. Closed points should be 0 volts at the neg on the coil. pos and neg should be the same 12 volts with the points open. if not either the coil or the points are bad. The condenser can fail and no spark with all the rest right

check to see if your truck has a crankshaft position sensor, its usually located behind the harmonic balancer or right near there, if the sensor went bad or if the wiring got messed up there will be no signal to the ecm telling the ecm when to send spark to the coil. the crankshaft position sensor is responsible for telling the computer when to fire the spark plugs based on rpm and timing. check the wires on the crankshaft position sensor, if they look fine, replace the sensor, hope this helps!