My Brembo front floating rotors seem to be a little to loose. This is a 30,000 mile bike. Should I be concerned?

1. Standard Maintenance Schedule
   • The oil and filter should be changed at the first 1,000 miles, then 5,000 miles, then every 5,000 miles thereafter. The transmission lubricant should also be changed with the first 1,000 miles, then every 10,000 miles, along with the spark plugs. The following should also be tended to:
     * At 10,000 miles, the steering head bearings need lubricating.
     * At 20,000 miles, lubricate the steering head bearings again and adjust them if necessary. Also, change the front fork oil.
     * At 25,000 miles, lubricate the master cylinder pistons, the front brake lever pin and the brake caliper pins. Replace the brake caliper boots, bushings and the rubber components in the master cylinders and calipers.
     * At 30,000 miles, replace the rear fork bearings.
     
   Maintenance for Winter Storage
   • Putting your bike away for the winter entails more than parking it in the garage. You want to store it in prime condition so that it runs properly when you restart it. Storing your machine for the winter entails:
     * Changing the oil and filter.
     * Adding fuel stabilizer and running the bike so the fluid flow through the fuel system.
     * Remove the battery and plug it into a battery tender that will keep it charged through the winter or run your bike for a few minutes every few weeks to keep the battery charged.
     * Properly inflate the tires and move the bike occasionally to even out the tire pressure.
     * Clean the bike, polish your chrome and aluminum surfaces, wash the windshield and treat the leather surfaces with a protector.
     * Store it indoors, or cover the Harley with a motorcycle cover, to protect it from the elements.
     
   Pre-Ride Check List
   • Inspecting your Harley whenever you ride is a good idea, but it should always be done before you go on a long trip. A pre-ride review should consist of the following check points:
     * Your fluids.
     * Your controls, such as the brakes, throttle and steering.
     * Your tire pressure.
     * Your breaks.
     * Your lights, like your signals, headlights and tail lights.
     * Your mirrors, to make sure they are properly adjusted.
     * Your battery.
     * Inspect for leaks related to oil, fuel and hydraulics.
     * Examine the drive belt and sprockets.
     
   Tires
   • Make sure the tires are inflated so they wear properly and the bike handles normally. Check that both tires have their valve stems and they are in good condition. Test that your wheel spokes are tight by lightly running a screwdriver tip over them. A loose spoke sounds different than those with the correct tension.
     
   Battery
   • A battery's terminals and connectors should be kept clean. Test that the clamps and cables are tight since loose connections are usually the culprit when it comes to sudden battery failure. Keep the vent tube clear of any kinks and/or blockages.
     
   Brakes
   • The rotors to your brakes need to have a smooth surface that's free of debris. Examine where the brake pads come in contact with the rotors to see if there's any discoloration. Check your manual to verify the proper thickness of your brake pads.
     
   Lights
   • It's a good idea to have a friend look at your lights--front, back, brake and blinkers--while you flip the switches. You can use a wall or window for a reflection if you are testing them alone.
     

Hello,
The rotor on your motorcycle is a full floating rotor and the outer portion is supposed to " float ". It normally has side to side play and the rivets have some play forward and backward. If your bike has a lot of miles and the brakes have been used heavily, the rotors may become very loose and make noise. I have never heard of any failure in normal conditions and the rotors may be fine but I would recommend a qualified technician look at the brake just for safety.
Thanks and I hope that this helps.
Steve

this sounds about right, 30,000 miles for mostly local runs, but rotors should be resurfaced instead of replaced every brake job, aset of good rotors can be cut at least twice between brake jobs.

Put a compression tester on the motor and see if the front and back cylinders both have the same compression. If the oil has been kept clean the lower end should be in pretty good shape still. Top end could be getting a little bit loose. I'd probably ride it through the fall and yank to top end to see what shape the valves and cyclinder walls look like.

Check the motor mounts for cracks.

depends. if anything that loose is not so good.but some brake are design to have something loose.u can check your brake sometime there is a bolt holding your brake calliper ,cover /wrapped with a small rubber tube or washer.because some brakes there is a gap and allow your brake calliper to move a little when it brake for full brake performance.

yes,stop going to the dealer for this kind of parts
you can get aftermarket from regular parts stores.

gl G

BMW rotors are not known for lasting very much more than 30-45k miles. When the brakes are inspected, they measure the pads using a special tool threw the outer brake pad. Min spec is 3mm. When the pads are replaced, they measure the thickness of the rotors. The rotor spec is stamped on the rotor. if they are under that spec, they recommend replacing them as well. Next time you bring it in for service, just ask them to measure the rotor thinkness, (its not a huge task, all they have to do is take the wheels off). But more often than not, the rotors wear just as fast as the pads.

Yeah, warped rotor will make a noise. So will brake pads that aren't going back into the caliper like they should. I never saw a 90's NH yet that hadn't warped up the stock rotor. I put a floating rotor on my '92 NH 750 so that it wouldn't warp again and get noisy. It was also cheaper than another Honda rotor. Simple bolt-on fix, just don't forget to use some Locktite! As for the caliper, I've never worked on one.

warped rotor will make a noise. So will brake pads that aren't going back into the caliper like they should. I never saw a 90's NH yet that hadn't warped up the stock rotor. I put a floating rotor on my '92 NH 750 so that it wouldn't warp again and get noisy. It was also cheaper than another Honda rotor. Simple bolt-on fix just don't forget to use some Locktite! As for the caliper I've never worked on one. ,,

could be a bad outer tie rod end or lower ball joint on the front suspension, to check jack up wheel (suspension supported) grasp tire and move back and forth, if you feel loosness you have a worn component. if there is no looseness then you have either an bad wheel bearing (excessive runnout) or defective rotors

did you replace All discs front and rear? if not , replace the ones that you previously didnt