Will not re-start for 2-3 hours. carbs NOT issue, nor any other fuel component. I just installed a Dynakit 2000 CDI iginition and it still does same thing. My U.K. expert says he had similar problem and it was due to faulty relay not providing enough voltage to coils. The only relay shown in OEM parts list is flasher relay and sidestand relay. Any ideas?
The relay he was speaking of is probably the ignition module/relay.
Do you have copies of the circuit you are having problems reading?
Or FTP space to host them at and provide a link?
Thanks
you can post the link here... so all experts can have a go at it.
or email to [email protected]
just came through... give me a few minutes.
OK - looks like your TCI (Transistor Controlled Ignition) is acting up - but it may be because of faulty information it is getting from the Pickup Coil, Ignitor, or insufficient vacuum pressure from #2 carb joint.
This may be a silly question too - but trying to cover all bases - have you checked the kickstand limit switch? It also would cause the bike to shut down unexpectedly if it were to fail.
The TCI is #9 on page 6-27. (bottom right)
You will see the TCI relies on input from many sources in order to properly fire.
In absence of any of the input failures - the TCI would be deemed faulty.
Just from the fact that the performance systematically declines - leads me to a faulty transistor or sold solder joint (cracked) in the TCI.
Let me know what you think.
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No solution from me, but Im glad I'm not alone with this, had my FJ1100 for about 3 months now and is now doing precisely the same thing. Starts and runs ok for about 2-3 miles then looses 2 or more cylinders. Im assuming that the coils or another part of the ignition system are overheating, so was just going to change coils and leads. I'm pretty sure its not a carb issue because I stripped, cleaned and balanced them when I bought the bike. Ride for more than 10 miles and she will die, only to start again after about 10 minutes, albeit on 1 or two cylinders. Sounds like i'm in the early stages of the problem everyone else has. Please help, I live in Cornwall and the FJ is too heavy to go up hills one 1 cylinder!
The problem is with the points inside the fuel pump. When they go bad they don't allow the pump to shut off periodically as designed. So, fuel pump gets hot and quits. After you let it cool down, it starts to work again. Either replace the fuel pump or buy a repair kit such as this one available in the UK. I have a friend who had same problem. Had this kit shipped to the States and it worked great.http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fj_1200_3xw_type/91-96/picture/fuel_pump_repair_kit_-_point_switch/
Quick thought - I had similar problems on an old XS750 where the battery voltage dropped, causing first a low speed missfire then progressive rundown. The cause was the battery charging circuit. Voltage lower than 9v caused ignition system to malfunction. Resting the battery for 15 mins enabled it to recover.
Hi! Have you solved your problem?
Can you share your expience?
I have very similar puzzle. Till now I replaced ign coils - not helped. I also checked fuel supply system, begining from fuel tank venting... No results.
Thanks
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
To your concern on the diode bank, to my understanding, it is but a rudimentary logic circuit to satisfy AND, XOR (exclusive OR) and IF-THEN conditions some of which are:
The performance changes brought about by the APE air filters and the Supertrapp exhaust has been addressed with the rejetting and therefore would have no direct effect on the major problem. If ever it would, it would only result either in a lean or rich condition but not progressive dying.
The problem as your suspected may either be carb or ignition related. To determine which perhaps you can consider this:
If you could determine which cylinder(s) starts to fail, then we could narrow the suspects down.
Unfortunately, I do not have a clear wiring diagram nor the service manual of your version of the FJ1100 nor details/wiring of the Dynakit 2000. Should it be convenient, please email attach a copy of either or both and send it to "FixYa Premium Support" <[email protected]> that they may forward it to me.
Would appreciate results / updates.
Good luck and rthank you for asking FixYa.
Most likely the ignition stator is the problem.
you said you installed an ignition CDI module but did u replace the stator/pickup, it is under the small cover on the side of the engine opposite the clutch, you say you installed a CDI ign module but there is nothing about the pickup being replaced, this is what they do, when they get hot the tiny copper wires that make up the pickup coil go open and no spark, then as they cool they make a circuit again and the engine starts, am very familiar with this problem on Japanese bikes.
A TRUE FJ MOTORCYCLE EXPERT FOR $6??, GOOD LUCK
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it should also be noted that when it dies, it does so slowly and progressively. First it develops a miss below 3,500 rpm but revs up ok. Then it misses at all points. It progresses to the point where it is running on 1 cyl as if it were running out of gas. But all fuel issues are proven false. I do not think it can be a coil issues as both would not go at the same moment and it clearly loses power on both coils. It runs again after at least an hour or more of cooling but again, only for a short while. It is NOT vacuum in tank either.
it should also be noted that when it dies, it does so slowly and progressively. First it develops a miss below 3,500 rpm but revs up ok. Then it misses at all points. It progresses to the point where it is running on 1 cyl as if it were running out of gas. But all fuel issues are proven false. I do not think it can be a coil issues as both would not go at the same moment and it clearly loses power on both coils. It runs again after at least an hour or more of cooling but again, only for a short while. It is NOT vacuum in tank either.
Sorry, you obviously did NOT read the post. I said that I have just recently installed a COMPLETE new ignition system with no change!
I guess I should be more specific. I thought that people familiar with FJs and Dynatek would know the kit I mentioned. The Dynakit 2000 is a complete replacement ignition system consisting of a new pickup and digital, adjustable ignition box that replaces the OEM Ignitor and pickup. Dyna also makes replacement coils but I did not replace those on the advice of Dynatek as the description of the issue ruled out the coils.
The bike has been doing this since I first bought it last year. It had a lot of rust issues and I have replaced the fuel tank, petcock, hoses, etc. I have re-jetted and rebuilt the carbs completely. The bike ran perfect after changing the tanks and first rebuilding the carbs. But it would quit after 30-40 minutes. I thought, at the time, it was a water in fuel or fuel level issue. So I got rid of the stock airbox, went to APE indvidual air filters (it already had a Supertrapp 4-1 exhaust). The jets at the time were stock. With the increase in airflow, I needed to re-jet. I did so and have since ruled out all possible fuel issues. The bike, once again, runs perfect but only for 30 minutes or so. I decided that it had to be the ignitor box heating up and shorting out. So I changed the entire ignition system (except the coils). During all this time I have been in contact with an FJ expert in the U.K. (I joined their club). The owner of that club just got back from a 4,000 mile Italy tour and he said he experienced a similar problem that he traced down to a relay heating up and shorting out causing low voltage to the coils. He is very busy and very short on his email answers. I have been unable to bypass the "relay" as he instructed. In fact, the only 2 relays on the '85 FJ have nothing to do with ignition... 1 is a sidestand relay which is not even connected on my bike and the other is turn signal. There is a diode assembly listed in the OEM partslist and supposedly located under the upper fairing but I do not know what function it has. I have not been able to contact the FJ expert in the past week (he is on another run) so I decided to try this. Since it can't be fuel and the ignition is new, yet the problems still occurs, it can only be 2 possible causes... one is a coil heating up and shorting out but I don't think this is the issue as if it was, the bike would lose 2 cylinders first but run, a little at least, on the one remaining coil (they both run 2 cyl). That only leaves some other relay/or possibly that diode heating up and shorting out. I have studied the wiring diagram extensively and so many systems are integrated that I can't find the source. My understanding of the diagram tells me that the coils do not go through the above 2 relays (I have checked voltage on the sidestand before and after symptom and it doesn't change at all). I can't check coil imput voltage as the tank must be removed to get to them. By the time I get the tank off, etc the bike has cooled enough to restart. I think I'm down to replacing the diode assembly, which is available but expensive and non-returnable. And I don't even know what it actually does or where it is other than inside the upper fairing. So if you know what it does and if it could be the cause, I will go with that advice but I was hoping to find a true FJ expert as the website indicated.
please give me your email address
I think I can send you a host link
I couldn't post a link as the only diagram I can access is on the club site
I emailed you a copy of the Yamaha service manual diagram (large 14mg) sorry can't grab 1 page only
can you verify that you recieved the PDF file?
Hmmm, I guess I'm not relaying info very well. My understanding is that TCI is a general term meaning that this bike does not use conventional "points" type ignition (TCI was new in the 80's). The CDI is a component of this system as is the pickup coil. After going through all the possible fuel caused possibilities, I replaced the ENTIRE TCI system by installing the Dynatek 2000. This kit put a new rotor (magnetic ring) on the end of the crankshaft. The it replaced the pickup coil and that links with the new CDI Ignition box. This problem was happening before and is still happening after. Once again, it is NOT the pickup or CDI part of the ignition system. The only remaining parts are the coils, original wiring harness, key switch, kill switch and any other relays or diodes that might comprise the rest of the TCI system. Through testing, I have ruled out the kill switch, key switch, coils (I think, see previous notes on coils). The only thing I have not been able to test is the diode assembly. The wiring harness is good. The relays (as mentioned before) do not have any function in the system to my knowledge. The power for the ignition does run through the sidestand relay if I'm reading it correctly. But as I stated before, my sidestand kill funtion is not working (meaning I can put the sidestand down while in gear and the bike still runs). So I am guessing that someone bypassed this before or there is an open connection there anyway. If that is the case, it could not be the cause of this issue. ie: if the bike is running , regardless if the stand is up or down, it must not be causing an intermittent issue. I have checked the relay for that circuit and there is no power in any of the 4 wires at any time, before when it's running properly or after it quits. This indicates that part of the "safety" system is not functioning. The vacuum from #2 joint is for the original OEM boost function of the Ignitor box. As the new ignition has total preprogrammed advance curves, etc. the vacuum is not used (it it capped off as instructed in the Dynakit install).
I guess what I'm looking for is either the answer to the question "is it possible that the 'diode assembly' listed in the OEM parts list and in the service manuals a part of the ignition circuit? And if so, could it cause an intermittent short as described?" Also, is there another component to the ignition system left to replace other than coils and this 'diode'? I see nothing else since the Dynakit replaced all other components.
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