What would be the best way to proceed after following the steps to light with no success ?

Code Fault Diagnosis Step Remedy
None
Open FC3 and/or
F1 Fuses
1. Check for faulty Gas
Valve wiring.
Inspect Gas Valve wiring. Ensure insulation on wiring is not worn. If
OK, proceed to step 2.
2. Verify that Gas Valve is
not defective.
Mesure for resistance across Gas Valve terminals and between each
terminal and ground. If short exists, replace Gas Valve. If OK, proceed
to step 3.
3. Check for faulty Control
Module wiring.
Inspect Control Module wiring. Ensure insulation on wiring is not worn.
If OK proceed to step 4.
4. Control Module is
defective.
Replace Control Module.

Ignition Failure 1. Ensure gas supply shutoff
valves are open.
Ensure that main gas shutoff installed adjacent to heater is open. Ensure
that knob on gas valve inside unit is in ''on'' position. If OK, proceed to
step 2.
2. Check for low gas supply
pressure
Ensure inlet gas supply pressure is between the minimum and maximum
values indicated on rating plate. If OK, proceed to step 3.
3. Check for faulty flame
sense wiring or connection.
Inspect flame sense wiring. Ensure wire harness terminals are securely
fastened to flame sense and to control module. If OK, proceed to step 4.
4. Check for faulty gas valve
wiring or connection
Inspect gas valve wiring. Ensure wire harness terminals are securely
fastened to spade terminals on gas valve. If OK, proceed to step 5.
5. Check for gas valve
failure or gas valve relay
failure.
1. Measure voltage across gas valve during trial for igintion. If 24VAC
is present and gas valve does not open, gas valve is defective. Replace
gas valve.
2. If 24VAC is not present, gas valve relay on control module is
defective. Replace control module.
6. Check for blockages in
gas orifices and burners
Inspect gas orifices for blockages which could prevent gas flow. Remove
and inspect burners for blockage

Go here and download the Instruction Manual for the tiller:
http://www.getearthquake.com/foundations/DownloadCenter/downloadpopup.asp?file=OM31320E.pdf

Looking closely at the carb, I see it is a very basic bowl and float type.

1) Turn off the gas vavle, so gas won't start leaking all over everything.

Simply remove the nut at the bottom of the carb, and remove the bowl by turning it ever so slightly as you pull down gently on it. Clean the crud out of the bowl, and then remove the pin (it just pushes through) that the float hangs from, and remove the little needle valve and wire holder that keeps it in place.

(study it very, very closely before you do this so you can reassemble everything back properly!)

Jam the end of the spray tube of a can of carb cleaner up into the seat of the valve and back-flush it. You may have to open the gas-supply valve to do this.

When the gas starts flowing, you've successfully cleaned the clog.

Turn off the gas-valve again, reassemble everything, do not over-tighten the nut on the bottom of the bowl, turn the gas back on, check for leaks, start the tiller and you should run just fine!

Ensure fresh gas is in tank. Follow gas line from tank to carb. Have locking pliers ready to pinch off gas line or close gas line valve. Remove gas line from carb. observe gas flow to carb. Remove carb bowl from bottom of carb. Attach gas line to carb. Does gas flow to carb. Observe float, float down gas flows, float up no gas flow. If float is bad replace float assembly or carb. Remove float mounting pin and needle metering valve. Use a bread wrapper pealed back an inch so thin wire can clean out port of meter needle. Use wire to clean out center port. Observe bowl screw look for hole thru screw, clean out with wire if preset. Re-assemble carb. Clean replace air filter. Fill oil. 30w. Prime motor, pull rope 10 times to start. No start, replace carb.

Ensure clean fuel. Always use Stabile in fuel. Follow fuel line from fuel tan to carb, ensure no leaks. Remove carb fuel bowl to check float operation. Have pliers to crimp line or use fuel shut off valve. Remove carb float bowl and clean. Float should hang down freely gas should flow. Push float up gas should cut off. Replace spark plug, ensure plug wire snaps on tight. Clean or replace air filter. Ensure oil is full, 30w oil. All mowers have low oil shutoff.

did you try bypassing the cycling t-stat also?

Hi Chuck and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

First off will it fire over if you add a splash of gas to the throat of the carb?
No = you probably have a stuck valve. I just add gas straight to the spark plug hole and slowly pull the recoil through with the ignition off. Most of the time it works to free sticky valve stems after 2 or 3 cycles of adding gas and slowly pulling the recoil through. Then you have to place rags on the cylinder head to catch all of that gas as you pull the recoil through rapidly for expell the gas. WIPE up any residual fuel before attempting a start.

Still no start check compression... If you don't have a compression tester you can make a poor mans tester... Form a paint brush handle to fit into the hole tightly so that is does not extend into the cylinder any farther than the spark plug would. Pull the recoil.... It should LAUNCH the paint brush out of the hole quite some distance and with force.

Yes it fires: SEE BELOW

If this unit had been sitting for some time there are some things you should do: (I note you said you cleaned the carb but the steps below are what need done on a unit that was idle for an extended period)
1. Clean the fuel float bowl
2. Make sure the main fuel jet orifice located in the area where the float bowl nut or solenoid attaches the float bowl to the body of the carb is cleaned. It will have a pin hole in it that ports fuel to a brass tube at the 6 o'clock position in the throat of the carb. The jet is removable but...most of the time you have to modify a regular screwdriver by grinding off some of the wide portion of the blade shank to make it fit the slot in the orifice and the body of the carb. If you use a screwdriver that is too small it will damage the jet and the only way to get it out is to drill it out VERY carefully.
THE PIN HOLE of the main fuel jet MUST BE VISIBLE
3. Check fuel flow to the carb via the float needle, With the float bowl off, place a spray paint can lid under the float and turn on the fuel selector. The spray can lid should fill in about 10 seconds.
If you do not have this amount of fuel flow then remove the main fuel line from the carb and check flow again. If you still have fuel flow problems
a. Check gas tank exit port for obstructions
b. Check feul flow beforr and after the fuel filter (if used).
c. Check fuel flow before and after the fuel shut off / fuel selector Many fuel selectors have a sediment bowl under the selector.. if yours had a sediment bowl remove the bowl and clean out the contents.
4. You have good fuel flow to the carb manifold....
a. Recheck fuel flow at under the fuel float with the float down. It must provide a reasonable fuel flow that would fill a spray can lid in around 10 seconds. If you still have fuel flow problems only at the the float needle remove the float and float needle. Also the main fuel line. Spray carb cleaner from the flat needle seat are to the fuel manifold and then from the manifold to the float needle seat.
5. Float check... must shut off fuel flow as it is raised to level i.e just as it reaches level.
b. Reassemble and test.

This USUALLY does the trick... if not I need the model number of your generator that starts with a "P" so I can look up the engine and carb data.

Given you have already cleaned up the carb I think you may have a valve stem that is slowing the operation of the valve.... or preventing it from closing (
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

If you are sure it is getting a spark; you have pulled the wire and verified spark to plug when plug is grounded to the frame.... Then you should check the carb to be sure it is getting fuel to the bowl. There should be a screw near the bottom of the float bowl; loosen it and watch for fuel to flow out the drain hole. If no fuel flows you can tap lightly on the bowl with handle end of a screwdriver to try and loosen the float shutoff to allow it to fill with gas. If the bike was put up wet or got dirty gas you may have to rebuild/clean the carbs very well to correct the problem. Do be sure to clean up any gas off of engine before letting the engine warm up to keep from having a fire hazard. If gas flows and you have spark it may actually be bad gas or water in gas. For water in gas the easiest thing to do is add a bottle of rubbing alcohol; as close to 100% pure you can get. The alcohol will mix with the water and you will get less sputtering and missing while you run the tank thru.

Check the filter screen on the fuel tap for blockage etc. Also check the tap for anything that may have lodged in it and blocking it. Check the fuel pipe too.

Hi
IF code is Ignition Failure error. A number of parts can cause this error.

Now if you are the handy type and know how to use a Multi Meter you can try to diagnose the problem. You must know your limits, these heaters can be very dangorus and working with them should not be take light heartily. Know when to call a qualified person.

That said if you want to go forward follow these steps.

1. Ensure gas supply shutoff valves are

open.

Ensure that main gas shutoff installed adjacent to heater is open. Ensure that knob

on gas valve inside unit is in on position. If OK, proceed to step 2.

2. Check for low gas supply pressure.

Ensure inlet gas supply pressure exceeds minimum valve indicated on rating plate. If

OK, proceed to step 3.

3. Check for faulty flame sense wiring or

connection.

Inspect flame sense wiring. Ensure wire harness terminals are securely fastened to

flame sense and to control module. If OK, proceed to step 4.

4. Check for faulty gas valve wiring or

connection.

Inspect gas valve wiring. Ensure wire harness terminals are securely fastened to

spade terminals on gas valve. If OK, proceed to step 5.

5. Check for gas valve failure or gas
valve relay failure

1. Measure voltage across gas valve during trial for ignition. If 24 vac is present and

gas valve does not open, gas valve is defective. Replace gas valve.

2. If 24 vac is not present, gas valve relay on control module is defective. Replace

control module.

Hopefully this will help

Valve clearance or camshaft timing. If you have no clearance on the intake valves at top dead center, then you will have no compression = no start.