Yamaha FZ 400 engine timing

Ensure the line on the timing rotor with a T next to it is aligned with the notch in the timing window

Starting with the rear cylinder, ensure the camshaft locating dowel is aligned with the mark on the cylinder head at about 1 o'clock
Engage cam sprocket with cam chain so it will line up with the dowel & fit onto camshaft

The mark on the sprocket should now also line up with the other marks. Turn the cam sprocket clockwise to remove all slack in the chain, push against the runner through the cam chain tensioner hole to take up slack, this re-aligns all the marks

Bolt cam sprocket to shaft & fit tensioner. Turn crankshaft until the other line on the rotor aligns with the notch in the timing window
Repeat the above process for the front cylinder

Removal & Installation

3.5L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Record the radio anti theft code data.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Engine cover Accessory drive belts Idler pulley Crankshaft pulley Power steering pump pulley Belt tensioner pulley Upper and lower timing belt covers
   
4. Support the engine with a floor jack and remove the engine mount.
5. Rotate the engine to align the camshaft sprocket timing marks with the cylinder head cover timing marks.
   
   

   Fig. Timing belt routing and timing marks-3.5L Engine
   

6. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Auto tensioner Timing belt
   
   

   Fig. Timing belt and related components-3.5L Engine
   
   

To install:

1. Ensure that the engine is set to Top Dead Center (TDC).
2. Prepare the auto tensioner for installation by compressing it in a vise and installing a retaining pin.
3. Install the timing belt in the following order:
   1. Crankshaft sprocket
   2. Idler pulley
   3. Left bank exhaust camshaft sprocket
   4. Left bank intake camshaft sprocket
   5. Water pump pulley
   6. Right bank intake camshaft sprocket
   7. Right bank exhaust camshaft sprocket
   8. Tensioner pulley
   
   
4. Install the auto tensioner. Do not remove the retaining pin at this time.
5. Check that the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks are aligned correctly.
6. Rotate the crankshaft 1 / 4 turn Counterclockwise .
7. Rotate the crankshaft 1 / 4 turn Clockwise to return the engine to TDC.
8. Loosen the tensioner pulley center bolt.
9. Apply 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm) torque to the tensioner pulley as shown and tighten the center bolt to 32-41 ft. lbs. (43-55 Nm).
   
   

   Fig. Adjusting the tensioner pulley-3.5L Engine
   

10. Remove the auto tensioner retaining pin.
11. Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions Clockwise , then wait 5 minutes for the auto tensioner to adjust.
12. Measure the auto tensioner rod as shown. If the measurement is not 3.8-4.5 mm, then repeat the belt tensioning procedure.
    
    

    Fig. Measuring the auto tensioner rod-3.5L Engine
    

13. When the auto tensioner measurement is correct, install or connect the following:
    
    Engine mount Upper and lower timing belt covers Belt tensioner pulley Power steering pump pulley Crankshaft pulley Idler pulley Accessory drive belts Engine cover Negative battery cable
    
14. Reprogram the radio anti theft codes.

    Kia_Sedona_2002-2006
    Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover & Seal

    • REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

    Print
    

    
    Removal & Installation
    
    3.8L Engine
    

    1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
    2. Record the radio anti theft code data.
    3. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
    4. Remove the drive belt. Remove the power steering pump. Remove the air conditioning compressor.
    5. Remove the alternator. Remove the drive belt idler. Remove the drive belt tensioner. Remove the water pump pulley. Remove the intake manifold.
    6. Remove the connector bracket from the left cylinder head cover. Disconnect the right ignition coil connector, condenser connector and remove the bracket.
    7. Remove the left cylinder head cover retaining bolts. Remove the cylinder head cover from the engine.
    8. Remove the right cylinder head cover retaining bolts. Remove the cylinder head cover from the engine.
    9. Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the timing mark T of the lower timing chain cover.
    10. Check that the mark of the camshaft timing sprockets are in straight line positioning on the cylinder head surface. If not rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. Do not rotate the engine counterclockwise.
    11. Remove the oil pan. Remove the crankshaft damper pulley. Remove the timing chain cover.
        NOTE Be careful not to damage the contact surfaces of the cylinder block, cylinder head and timing chain cover. Before removing the timing chain, mark the right and left timing chains with an identification mark based on the location of the sprocket because the identification mark on the chain for TDC can be erased.
        
    12. After compressing the timing chain tensioner, install a set pin. Remove the right cam to cam guide. Remove the right timing chain auto tensioner and timing chain tensioner arm.
    13. Remove the oil pump chain cover. Remove the oil pump chain tensioner assembly. Remove the oil pump chain guide. Remove the right timing chain.
    14. Remove the right timing chain guide. Remove the oil pump chain sprocket and oil pump chain. Remove the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump and camshaft drive gear.
    15. Remove the left cam to cam guide. Remove the left timing chain auto tensioner and timing chain tensioner arm. Remove the left timing chain.
    16. Remove the left timing chain guide. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and left camshaft drive. Remove the tensioner adapter assembly.
        
        

        Fig. Timing chain and related components-3.8L Engine
        

    
    To install:
    
    1. Check the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets for wear and damage, replace as required.
    2. Inspect the tensioner arm and chain guide for wear and damage, replace as required.
    3. Check that the tensioner pin moves smoothly when the ratchet pawl is released with a thin rod.
    4. The key of the crankshaft should be aligned with the timing mark of the timing chain cover. This indicates that the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
    5. Install the tensioner adapter assembly. Install the crankshaft sprocket and left camshaft drive.
    6. Install the left timing chain guide and torque the retaining bolts 14-18 ft. lbs.
    7. Install the left timing chain. Be sure to install the chain with no slack between the camshaft and the crankshaft (crankshaft sprocket, timing chain guide, exhaust camshaft sprocket, intake camshaft sprocket). The timing mark of each sprocket should be matched with the timing mark (color ink) of the timing chain at installation of the timing chain.
       
       

       Fig. Left timing chain markings and installation: (D) exhaust camshaft sprocket (C) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine
       

    8. Install the left timing chain tensioner arm and torque the retaining bolts 14-16 ft. lbs.
    9. Install the left timing chain tensioner and torque the retaining bolts 7-9 ft. lbs.
    10. Install the left cam to cam guide and torque the retaining bolts 7-9 ft. lbs.
    11. Install the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump and right camshaft drive.
    12. Install the oil pump chain and oil pump sprocket. Torque the retaining bolt to 14-16 ft. lbs.
    13. Install the right timing chain guide. Torque the retaining bolts to 14-18 ft. lbs.
    14. Install the right timing chain. Be sure to install the chain with no slack between the camshaft and the crankshaft (crankshaft sprocket, intake camshaft sprocket, exhaust camshaft sprocket). The timing mark of each sprocket should be matched with the timing mark (color ink) of the timing chain at installation of the timing chain.
        
        

        Fig. Right timing chain markings and installation: (C) exhaust camshaft sprocket (B) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine
        

    15. Install the right timing chain tensioner arm. Torque the retaining bolts to 14-17 ft. lbs.
    16. Install the right timing chain auto tensioner. Torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    17. Install the right cam to cam guide and torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    18. Install the oil pump chain guide. Torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    19. Install the oil pump tensioner assembly. Torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    20. Pull out the pins on both the left and right hydraulic tensioners. Install the oil pump chain cover.
    21. Rotate the crankshaft two revolutions in the clockwise direction. Confirm the timing mark. Be sure to rotate the crankshaft in the clockwise direction.
    22. Apply sealant on the chain cover and on the cylinder head, cylinder block, and lower oil pan. Be sure these parts are free of engine oil and dirt.
        NOTE Before assembling the timing chain cover, the liquid sealant TB1217H should be applied on the gap between the cylinder head and block. The part must be assembled with five minutes after the sealant is applied.
        
        
        

        Fig. Sealant application (1 inch bead width)-3.8L Engine
        

    23. Apply sealant on the chain cover.
        NOTE The liquid sealant TB1217H should be applied on the gap between the cylinder head and block. The part must be assembled with five minutes after the sealant is applied.
        
        
        

        Fig. Timing cover sealant application-3.8L Engine
        

    24. Install a new gasket to the timing case cover.
        NOTE It is important that the dowel pins on the cylinder block and holes on the timing chain cover should be used as a reference in order to assemble the timing chain cover in the correct position.
        
        
        

        Fig. Timing cover gasket installation (A) gaskets-3.8L Engine
        

    25. Install the timing chain cover. Torque the retaining bolts in the proper sequence and to specification. The engine should not be started for at least thirty minutes after timing chain cover assembly.
        
        

        Fig. Timing cover bolt torque sequence and specification-3.8L Engine
        

    26. Install the timing case cover oil seal.
    27. Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

Turn your crankshaft to align the T mark to the cover's mark.Then put the cam shaft so that the mark on it's sprocket is all the way up marking the "toothy" lump on the cylinder's head top.These marks (crankshaft & camshaft) should be exactly on their marks after you have installed the tensioner properly and before you are ready to close the engine.

This should be everything you need....

Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets

some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com

My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.

During most engine rebuilds, a completely new timing assembly should be installed. If wear exists on any component, replacement of the entire assembly is necessary. Wear in the chain, gears, or sprockets means a timing lag, which results in poor engine performance.
The timing chain or belt is generally installed with the gears in their correct positions. Before installing a new chain, soak it in oil.
OHC (Overhead Cam) Engines
Some OHC engines use a chain drive; others use a belt drive. Removing the cover on some OHC engines that have timing chains is more difficult, because the cover often fits between the oil pan and the cylinder head. There are special procedures for replacing cam timing components in these engines.
Before a chain repair job, perform a leakage test on non-freewheeling engines to check for bent valves, so that an accurate repair estimate can be made.
OHV (Overhead Valve) Pushrod Engines
On many OHV pushrod engines, the crankshaft sprocket is installed on the crankshaft nose and the crankshaft is rotated to position piston #1 at TDC. At this point, a mark stamped onto the crankshaft sprocket is pointing directly upward (toward the camshaft).
The camshaft sprocket is then temporarily bolted to the cam and used to rotate the cam until a mark stamped on the cam sprocket is pointing directly downward (toward the crankshaft). The sprocket is then removed from the cam (without allowing the cam to rotate).
The timing chain is looped over the cam gear, the mark on the cam gear is positioned directly downward, and the chain is looped around the crankshaft sprocket. When the cam sprocket is attached to the cam, the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets should be pointing toward one another. NOTE THIS IS FOR 2WD 4.0

Judging by your previous questions,I think this is the info you need.
Setting cam timing with stock cams is relatively easy using the punch mark on the cam gears For stock timing, the punch marks at 9 O'clock on the exhaust cam and at 3 O'clock on the intake cam should align with the top of the head. If stock timing is altered the exhaust cam punch mark will either be one tooth above or one tooth below the top of the head.

1. Take out tensioner.
   
2. Remove both plugs from shifter side of crankcase, the center plug to turn, the 11:00 plug to locate the 'I' (not the H) in.
   
3. Use a ratchet on end of crankshaft (through center plug) and zip tie ratchet to footpeg with the I lined up in the timing plug hole.
   
4. With the intake cam (rear one) pointing straight back, align the punch mark on the backside of the intake cam sprocket with the top of the head. Since the slack in the timing chain is in the back, if it doesn't align exactly right at the top of the head, err slightly high. Zip tie chain to intake sprocket.
   

1. Remove exhaust cam, count 12 links (where sprocket teeth will go) from the punch mark on the top of the intake cam and mark that position on the chain with something noticeable (use a Sharpie). Hold the exhaust cam close the to intake cam with the exhaust cams pointing horizontally to the front of the bike. With the exhaust cam in this position, there will be a punch mark at the top. Put the tooth above this punch mark in the chain link you marked that was 12 or 13 over. Zip-tie the chain to the exhaust cam.
   
2. Reseat exhaust cam. The punch mark on the left side of the exhaust sprocket will align with the top of the head. It will be one link high. Go back and check that the I is still centered in the timing plug hole
   1. the intake cams point back
      
   2. the exhaust cams point frontward
      
   3. the rear punch mark on the intake is aligned or slight high with the top of the head
      
   4. the front punch mark of the exhaust sprocket is aligned with the top of the head
      
3. Bolt and torque exhaust cam, torque intake if you've had it off.
   
4. Install chain tensioner (wind it up, hold the screwdriver with two hands, use the third hand to put hold tensioner in place, and fourth hand to bolt it up, then release screwdriver and put end bolt in it.
   
5. Remove zip ties on intake sprocket, exhaust sprocket, and ratchet holding TDC. Remove ratchet and replace both plugs.
   
6. Put on valve cover and two hoses, reinstall tank and seat and go riding.
   

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