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I would say the relay is bad. If you're handy with relays they'e fixable.
You could go to youtube.com and search "Repair Car Relays"
Otherwise replace the relay.
Hope this helps.
the radiator fan gets the power from a relay that is energized by a signal from the ECM that in turn gets a report from the coolant temperature sensor
AT this point I would be thinking that there is considerable resistance in the relay
you say the fan works a bit so the temp sensor is reporting toe the ECM which is turning the relay on but power is low from there
replace the fan relay and see if the situation improves
you can test that theory by putting a meter across the wires to the fan when it should be working and reading the voltage available to the fan
if it is not 12 volts or better( 13.2-14 volts) it is the relay
Hello, check to see if you have 24 volts to the solenoid valve when the blower motor is on, if you do the solenoid valve is bad if not chevk to see where the voltage stops. Also, since tnis is a fan powered humidifier, the relay that energizes the fan could be bad aswell.
Lets take a look at the relay first. This is a device that takes a small amount of voltage (computer signal), and passes it off (through a magnetically induced switch) to a higher voltage- like a relay race.
The circuit would consist of a power source (battery), wiring, a switching device (sensor and computer), relay, fan, and ground. According to the trouble code, the indication is that something along this circuit is defective or malfunctioning.
For a do-it-yourself diagnosis, first you wanna check the fan to see if it can free spin. This will confirm that it isn't siezed. Next you wanna start the vehicle, and let the temp gauge go to halfway. The fan should activate. If it doesn't, turn on the a/c. If this cuts the fan on, then the relay is working. If it doesn't suspect a faulty fan relay. In the event that the a/c does cut the fan on, then suspect a faulty coolant temp/fan switch.
Hook the fan directly to car battery, if it works, try to hook the fan just before the relay, and if it works, test the relay by connecting a 12v current to the relay (to the connector that makes the relay conduct current, usually there is a diagram under the relay) if the fan spins while in place, the relay is good. Then it's a problem with the heat censor. If the fan doesn't spin in the first place, the fan is progen.
mcdevito75 here, At the relays wiggle the wires to see for loose connection, also see if you can jump the fan direct to the battery to see if the fan works., Also the fan relay could be bad, or the temp. Between the relays and fan there is a temp sensor that puts the fan on, jump that and see if the fan works.
It could be the program in the ECM where it may run for a few min before it's commanded by the ECM to shut down or the other thing is the radiator fan Relay may be bad and is sticking in the close loop position and needs to be replaced. A bad Relay may get stuck in the open loop and your not going to have an cool fan working, causing overheating in stop and go traffic. Good luck and hope this helps.
Check the air pump. If you are lucky the rotor is busted. If not, see if the fan spins freely with no binding. If so, the starter relay is bad, if equipped. Some heaters have external relays, others have internal relays and are not serviceable. Could also be a bad bearing. Could also be - someone sat on the heater or dropped something on it, or it fell out of the truck and the sheet metal is squashed and is against the fan blade.
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