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On a 2005 Suzuki C90t bike not charging. Stator and rectifier check out ok?

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  • 87 Answers

There is no test for a reg/ rectifier. stator can be checked for resistance and static tested for output. factory service manual will provide details. if stator passes both tests then replace regulator.

Posted on Sep 08, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Faulty regulator rectifier- can't start the bike

I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Suzuki C90T Boulevard will not charge

the altanator is under the left side cover that bulges out, to test the out put with a meter find the plug with the 3 yellow wires that comes from that cover and test with meter set on ac volts 0 to 100 range. put the leads between the wires with them unplugged from harness, test all combantions and you should get about 60 ac volts when you rev motor to 3500 rpm. if this checks good you need the rectifier/regulator not the stator.

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: can't find dip stick to check oil on suzuki motorcycle c90t

There is no dipstick on suzuki . Stand beside your bike and look on the bottom right side of your crankcase . look for a little site glass window . That is how you
check . if the oil is half way up the glass when you stand bike straight up . . change every 3000, plus filter

Posted on Oct 19, 2010

  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: no charge happening on my 2007 boulevard c90 seems

the stator is behind the front cover on KS side, must drain oil and will need new gasket, normally when it burns out it takes the rectifier/regulator with it!!

Recommend Ricks Stators on line this is a better replace ment than OEM, mine has lasted 2 1/2 years so far (this was third replacement) Also recommend relocating the regulator to the bottom front of the battery box (requires fab a plate and extending wires and solder connections) this allows it to get more air and stay cooler I also added additional grounds

Posted on Feb 28, 2011

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1 Answer

Stator and rectifier check out ok bike not


These bikes are known for blowing the stators. Really check the output.. Common issue- as same question on volusiariders.com scads of knowledge there

Sep 07, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

No power when ignition is turned on, all fuses ok, battery fully charged.


Sounds like it might be your rectifier. Happened to me. Replaced the rectifier and the battery nad the problem went away. The bad rectifier WILL eventually quite working. Try hooking up jumper cables to the bike to see if it gets power. If it does, and your battery and fuses are fine, I would suggest you have your rectifier checked and replaced. Good luck!

Jan 03, 2013 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90T

1 Answer

2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90T not charging


Hi, Ytruelove before testing any electrical component in the Charging System Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, especially "AGM" batteries.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Suzuki C90t Stator Problem
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf
Suzuki VL1500 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki Intruder VL1500B Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Mar 31, 2017 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90

1 Answer

Where is the voltage regulater located on a suzuki boulavard c90t


the regulator rectifier is on the left side of your bike behind the chrome cover directly below your ignition switch

Jun 05, 2011 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90T

1 Answer

2007 Boulevard C90T - Battery seems to not be charging. After a few hours of riding, the battery starts to lose power. I have tested with a volt meter and I get about 13.8 volts when idling, so it looks...


I have a 2006 C90T and had the exact same issues. I have no great solution for you other than to tell you that in my case it turned out to by the stator. This is one of the only known reliability issues with this bike. With the regulator and stator setup on the standard C90 the stator is basically 'running' all the time due to the type of regulator/rectifier. What myself and many other have done is to replcae the regulator with Cycle Electric CE602 (made for Dynaglide Harley). This type reduces the load to the stator hopefully extending the life of the stator. The CE602 is much larger than the stock one and will have to be relocated. All my power issue went away once upgrading to a better charging system. To be sure though I would get it into a shop to have them test it right.
Regards,
GGrinds@clubsuzuki.ord

Mar 30, 2011 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90

1 Answer

2006 Suzuki C90T Boulevard will not charge Battery. I put in a new battery and still have the same problem. Where is the alternator located?


the altanator is under the left side cover that bulges out, to test the out put with a meter find the plug with the 3 yellow wires that comes from that cover and test with meter set on ac volts 0 to 100 range. put the leads between the wires with them unplugged from harness, test all combantions and you should get about 60 ac volts when you rev motor to 3500 rpm. if this checks good you need the rectifier/regulator not the stator.

Sep 11, 2010 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90T

1 Answer

Replaced my stator with an upgraded version after bike died on me, Bike started find for a couple days now it is starting to act up,it seems like it is going die when starting then all of sudden it starts....


Check the condition of the battery and the tightness of the terminals. Battery may not be holding a full charge after the original charging problem.

Aug 05, 2009 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90T

1 Answer

Faulty regulator rectifier- can't start the bike


I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

Jun 18, 2009 | 2007 Suzuki Boulevard

2 Answers

Battery on 125cc Suzuki GS is ok- but not being charged


You need to have stator coil tested.
An alternate problem could be the regulator/rectifier.
Both of these should tbe checked by a dealer

Cheers

Jon

Mar 02, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

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