What could cause a1991 suzuki samurai to have no fire from a new coil?

If you are getting power to the distributor cap but not from there to the leads/ plugs! It must be within the distributor! Does it have a condenser in the distributor?

I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.

-Sounds like bad igniter. But make sure check fuel pressure as well.

Good luck

Mai

This diagram is for 1998-1995 Chevy 6 cylinder 4.3L engines.
Your got the firing order exactly correct, at 1-6-5-4-3-2, but here's the thing to double-check:
The distributor rotation is clockwise (note badly rendered arrow in picture).





Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
failure of the ignition system:
(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
(g) battery low - may need a charge to start
(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
watch the quality of the spark on each cylinder.
(i) fuel problem? If spark is being properly delivered, its gotta be a fuel problem...
(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.

Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.

change out your distributor cap and rotor button

bad cap ????

Try checking the contacts between the rotor button and the distributor cap, particularly the center contact to the coil. Hopefully your problem is there because 1990 and later samurais were fuel injected and notorious for faulty ecm's and if I remember correctly it can be close to $1000 for a new one and $200+ for a repair job.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jerry_612d8419f8984578

Hello;
Take the distributor cap off, and turn the engine over. Does the rotor turn? Then pull the #1 spark plug and with your finger over the spark plug hole , tap the engine over to top dead center. See where the rotor is pointing. Also check to ensure your points are opening and closing. With an ohm meter make sure you have continuity through the carbon for the coil in the cap. Hope it helps.
Thanks;
Rich
RPM Northwest

Check the resistance of the pick-up coil in the distributor. Reading should be between 800 to 1200 ohms. Disconnect the two wire connection at the distributor control module to measure the resistance.
Let me know.
Regards,

I had the same problem with my 85 cj7 this week, I relpaced the ignition control module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and the the coil; still had no fire to plugs. the problem turned out to be my distributor, replaced it today and she fired right up. Most likely it was the pick up module in the distributor that went bad.