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my gpz 1000rx 1986 would start and rev fine but die on pull away, for weeks tried allsorts (carbs cleaned, plugs changed etc) Solution for me was WD40 the sidestand switch and tighten earth lead from battery where it bolts to engine block, now its fine. Hope this helps WAZZA
Take off wheel...remove cush drive on sprocket side...prise the oil seal out on the brake side and you'll see a circlip...remove this and drift bearings out. Drift new ones in with a socket or bit of tubing that is the same size as the bearing outer so as not to damage the bearings...re-fit circlip.
will the bike start while you have it in gear and hold in the clutch and "kickstand switch" up position.? can i get a four thumbs up if this gets you in the ball park. thanks.
First may I say I don't know for sure your bike model that well (In- line 4 cylinder or water cooled twin?) BUT I am very experienced with motorcycles ( I am a qualified motorcycle mechanic & have owned GPZ 550, Z650, ZIR-II ).
For starters Kwasaki have used two different methods of delivering drive from the starter motor to the engine. Gear driven & chain driven. The chain driven type ( like GPZ 900 R ) were equiped with a tensioner. If yours has a tensioner be sure to change it with a new one also.
Both of the styles of drives ( chain & gear ) incorporate what is called a starter clutch mechanism.
This is what allows drive from the starter motor to be applied only when the starter motor is activated & free wheel when the engine runs. It is a one way clutch mechanism.
I am explaining this because a verry common fault on all electric start bikes is the starter clutch. ( except Moto-Guzzi, BMW, Harley which use a car style starter with a sliding pinion ).
When the starter clutch is faulty it displays a very distinct symptom.
When the starter motor is activated, you will hear a "whizz" followed by a crunching noise rather reminicent of a chain jumping teeth on a sprocket.
If this is the case with your bike & is what is what led you to change the chain, plus is what your continueing problem is, I would suggest you check the starter clutch.
The starter clutch comprises of a drive gear(the one that the chian, or startor motor output shaft drives), 3 rollers, three springs with guide pins, & the housing plate for the rollers & springs with guides.
To effectivly repair a starter clutch it is necessary to replace the gear, the 3 rollers, the 3 springs, sometimes the housing plate if it is also worn (from the rollers moveing)
I am hopefull this may shed some light as to the cause of your problem.
If not please post a comment & I'll try to help you further.
No but there is not much between them if i remeber right the cam lobes are slightly bigger which would give you more air and fuel which maybe be detrimental. check cam lobe sizes in the haynes manual for 900 and 1000 and compare
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