No spark it could be a coil or cdi

cranking is turning over which indicates that the battery and starter is doing the job
cranking but not firing indicates ignition or fuel problems
now that you have the correct terminology perhaps you can get an answer
first test is to pull a plug ground it out or use a spark plug tester crank it over to see if there is spark
Good spark forget CDI and coil so look at fuel
NO spark indicated , check for 12 volts from the ignition switch on the start circuit
Ignition switches have to power wires to the coil
on gives power when cranking and the other continues power when the starter is nor engaged
power in both positions move on to next check
no power from the switch to the coil when cranking --get new switch next check if both wires have 12 volts is the ignition circuit
check for safety micro switches not working right up to the CDI
power to the CDI but no spark --replace cdi
power from the cdi nut still no spark --replace the coil
AS to not available
check after marker as the units are generic and made by electronic companies not golf cart manufacturers so it is a distinct possibility that a cdi from some where else will fit

There are three items that are connected together needed to create spark on your 1997 Honda 4-wheeler, regardless of which model it is.
Before we go through a checklist of these three important parts, look for a black wire with a white stripe that runs to the ignition switch and kill button from the CDI box. Disconnect this wire before it gets to the ignition switch and kill button, then check for spark. The most likely cause is a broken kill switch on the handlebar, or shorted ignition switch. Such a condition grounds this wire and kills the spark.
If this test did not restore the spark, continue reading...
Here is what is required to create a spark.

First, the alternator has one coil which generates a high voltage--about 125 Volts AC for the CDI ignitor box.

Second, there is a pulse voltage generated once every revolution of the engine that goes to the CDI box. This pulse causes the CDI to dump its stored energy from the 125 volt line into the primary of the ignition coil.

Third, If the two connections of the wire that runs from the CDI to the Coil are BOTH SHINY clean, the ignition coil will generate a spark.

If any one of these 3 don't happen, the spark will go away. Of these three, item 3 -- one or two tarnished and/or dirty connectors -- is the most likely cause. Just an added resistance of 0.3 Ohms or more in the CDI to Coil connections will cause the ignition to fail. No other wires have to be this clean.

The blue with white stripe will go from stator to cdi box. Then black with yellow stripe goes from cdi box to coil will give you spark. If u have no spark and u u haven't changed cdi box or checked coil I'm going to bet that's ur problem. Hope this helps.

check supp lie electricity to coil, if ok. but no spark. check ur ignite r in ur cdi box

The power supply is common for all the coils.
Have you switched the coils (wires marked 1 and 2)? If still the same coil non sparking, replace that coil.
If the same output non sparking, check the pulser coil for that cylinder. Invert both pulser coil connections (white red and white black). If the miss is on the same cilinder, replace the cdi. If the miss is on the other cylinder: replace that pulser coil.

yes the cdi is most importing.the starter coil supply electricity to cdi then cdi forward electricity to high tension coil,and high tension coil forward the electricity to spark plug,spark plug give more fire to piston.cdi not only supply only electricity,cdi adjust the electricity and control the power.ok?

Sounds like you need new wires.....but the cdi box could be working only on one cyl. also........I would try new wires first.....

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

If somehow, the CDI could be opened up, then component level repair maybe tried. There would be 2 final transistors that actually do the switching; 1 for each coil. Offhand, it would appear that 1 of those 2 is faulty. Otherwise, replacement is the only option.

Incidentally, in some versions, a fault in the tachometer could also cause one of the CDI's output to fail.

Postback results of tests.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

For a "no spark" problem with a Hyosung RX125, check:

• temporarily disconnect the battery. With the engine on at both the ignition switch and engine kill switch, verify that the green wire to the CDI does not measure 0 ohms to ground;
• if it does, check the ignition switch and the engine kill switch;
• it it measures anywhere between 50 ~ 500 ohms, then reconnect the battery and check that there is +12 on the orange wire going to the CDI with ignition switch on;
• for a pulsating voltage (high ACV) at the white / blue wire coming from the CDI going to the ignition coil;
• for a pulsating voltage (low ACV, 0.5VAC) at the green wire coming from the pulser coil going to the CDI; and
• of course, check if the CDI (black / white) is connected to the ground.

Postback results of tests.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

I've this data from my 1986 engine!

Under the left hand side cover there are 2 2-wire connections. One with a green and a black wire, one with a blue and a yellow wire.
Use an ohmmeter at R x 100 between both wires of a connector to check the pick-up coils: resistance must be between 130 and 180 Ohms.

The values of the ignition coil resistances are:
primary coil : 3-5ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1 )
Secundary coil : 25.000 - 45.000 ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1.000 )
For a correct measurement ALL leads must be disconnected ( also the spark plug leads )

The CDI cannot be tested with a simple measurement. Suzuki dealers have a special tool to test CDI boxes.
But checking the pick-up coils and ignition coils good will indicate an defective CDI.

The wires on the CDI:
Blue: PU coil 1 ( cyl 1-4 )
Yellow: PU coil 1
Green: PU coil 2 ( cyl 2-3 )
Blue : PU coil 2
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 1-4
White : switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 2-3
Blue/yellow: switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4 ( and signal to tachometer )
Blue/white : ground

Thus, you must have +12V on both Orange/white leads.