Question about 2007 Suzuki GSX-R 750

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06 gsxr 600 stalled at a stop light and wouldn't restart, already replaced the battery and stator?

Battery doesn't hold a charge, have to keep charging

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  • 15 Answers

It sounds like its possibly a bad regulator/rectifier. I have posted a link to a video on how to test your regulator. How to test 2 plug Regulator Rectifier for K6 K7 GSXR 750 600 1000

Posted on Apr 10, 2017

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6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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steve t

  • 921 Answers

SOURCE: my battery wont keep a charge

did you check the rectifier circuit? thats the only thing left in the charging system circuit....you can check this buy using a voltmeter, first gain access to battery.... ground the black meter lead to a good frame ground (make sure bare metal surface, not painted), and touch the red lead to the positive terminal on the battery..with the engine at idle, you'll probably see about 12.5v or >...now increase to 4000rpm and watch to see the voltage rise to approx. 13.5v to 14v and then while holding it at this rpm you should see the voltage being rectified down to about 13v, release throttle now, this is normal operation rectifier is working. If the battery still wont hold a charge then the negative battery cable is probably shorting out on the frame somewhere and draining the battery. You can try to see if this is shorting out by driving the bike around (if you can), for at least 15 minutes above 4000rpm then take a voltage reading real quick... it'll probably be around 12.6 or> ..13v is excellent. now disconnect the negative cable.. tie it off so it wont touch anything, and leave over night next day it should still read about 12.6v. Hope you find the trouble. Can you let me know if this helped you a lot.
thanks

Posted on Apr 05, 2010

zx6r6

  • 45 Answers

SOURCE: bought a 2002, 750 gsxr, rode it for an hour, then

sounds like the battery either not holding a charge start the bike run a multi meter across the battery whilst giving a few revs and it should read between 13 and 14 volts if it reads this then its dfinatly the battery but if the voltage does not go up with increased revs first thing would be the regulator rectifier last thing the most exspensive would be the alternator hope this helps

Posted on Oct 26, 2010

67midget

  • 279 Answers

SOURCE: HAVE A 1997 SUZUKI GSXR 600 I CRANK THE BIKE UP

The reason the bike shuts down when you remove the negative cable is because you are removing half the circuit.Go and get yourself a volt meter that will do volts DC.Start the bike up and and with the leads on the appropriate terminals have a friend bring the bike off idle and read the voltage.You should get somewhere between 13 to 14.4 volts.Anything less than this means you are not charging up the battery.Good Luck

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

dan4492

Willies Cycle Inc

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Gsx r 750 1998. Battery holds charge when riding with lights off. But not with lights on. Stator or rect/reg??

Definitely a charging issue. Always check the battery first, I prefer a gel cell battery over acid. Battery must be good and strong to charge properly. This charging system is so small , it only operates enough to maintain battery voltage. Normally it wont charge a weak battery, so start there first. you can check the voltage coming from the stator, at 3k RPM you should be getting around 60-80 volts per leg. If each stator leg checks within these results, it will be a good stator. The reg/rect is not something I can tell you how to check on the bike. We have a stand alone system here where we bench test them off the bike to eliminate the rest of the system to test Just the reg/rect.
I have these stators here new also have the reg/rect, both have a one year warranty. If you need more help let me know. Thanks

Posted on Feb 21, 2012

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1 Answer

2004 Suzuki GSX-R 600 not charging


Hi, Albert before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2006 Suzuki GSXR 600 Not Charging
Suzuki GSX R600 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
Suzuki GSX R600 2003 Manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


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Hi, Fred before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/277902921-suzuki-gsx600-katana-1989-1997-workshop-service-repair $15
https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

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