1981 Suzuki GS 750 L Logo
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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I need tuning specs for my 1982 suzuki gs 750.

The bike was running very poorly and would not idle until it got very warm. once the bike was warmed up it had almost no power and the engine would act starved for gas when i opened the throttle. if I held the throttle open it took several seconds for the engine to rev up. the choke actually ran the bike better than the throttle. also the engine would idle up around 3,000 rpm from time to time.
I've taken the carbs apart and cleaned them but when i put them back on the bike wouldn't start. I opened the screws on the bottom of the float bowls in each carb and only got fuel to drain from 2 carbs. so i desperately am in need of some adjustment help! thanks!

  • Henry Noll
    Henry Noll Jan 15, 2016

    If u go on line and pull up the specs for the bike u can get them that way

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1 Answer

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  • Expert 375 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 29, 2009
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Joined: Jun 27, 2009
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You need to fix the fueling first - without fuel it won't run!
Your other problem sounds like an air leak - either the manifold or the carb. Check by spraying WD-40 or CRC at the manifold and carb join while the bike is running - if the revs change (either up or down) you have a leak.

  • scottdlouhy
    scottdlouhy May 19, 2014

    Make sure to have the fuel petcock in the "prime" position. These bikes have a pulse activated fuel flow from the tank to the carbs. In the prime position the fuel will flow freely. Turn onto regular fuel setting on petcock when bike is running. If not check needle and seat and float height

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Appreciate the direct "Ask Me".

Your described problem based on the bike being a 1982 model could be varied, among them are:
  • weak spark - not necessarily weak battery. Culprits could be loose loose connector to the CDI, low IGN +12 to the + terminal of the coil (check with a voltmeter while just switch on and when cranking/starting), or even a loose ground terminal. Check spark by removing plugs, reconnect the plugwires, let the threaded end touch metal part of engine, crank. Sparks should be strong;
  • corroded/poor contacts in the ignition switch resulting to the above. You can test by running a jumper wire straight from the battery to the + terminals of the ignition coil;
  • too lean air/fuel - plugs should be brownish in color;
  • air or vacuum leak - resulting to the above and high or poor idling;
  • unbalanced carbs - carb check/clean, verify air adjustment screw number of turns,
  • compression low - have a compression check.
Would look forward to your updates. Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.
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