This is not an uncommon problem with starter pinion gears. Some times when the starter is replaced the shim between the starter and the flywheel is left out or the wrong shim is used. If the starter has not been replaced and the issue is not with a wrong shim, I would try to lubricate the pinion gear ( WD40, etc.) and tap it gently with a rubber mallet , and see if it retracts. You may get lucky and the gear will retract, but in the long run, you should consider replacing the starter with a new one.
SOURCE: backfiring
when you replaced the exaust you should of had the jetting changed they have to be rejetted.
there is your problem
SOURCE: Need help with an Oil and filter change on a 2005 Suzuki M50
Go here:
http://www.moccsplace.com/
Download the service manual.
SOURCE: Fuse box, Suzuki Boulevard C50 2005
Should be behind one of your sidecovers. I f you did'nt get a manual w/yor bike then order one from your dealer. It's an invaluable tool....Good luck to you friend....Tim
SOURCE: '05 Suzuki Boulevard C90 sometimes won't turn
I've got a 2006 and just found this while surfing around...
Realistically, diagnosing the problem behind a bike
that won't start, can be a frustrating experience, as
there are many potential problems that can create the
same symptoms. Here are a couple of guidelines to help
determine the root of a "labored" starting
problem, and by "labored", we mean that the
starter motor kicks in and attemps to turn the engine
over, but either can't get it over the "hump",
or does so with a lot more effort than usual.
If your battery is over two years old, and you CONSISTENTLY
have a labored start, then the first suspect will be the
battery.
If she starts cold with no problems, but CONSISTENTLY
has labored starting while hot, then the charging system
should be checked. A grounding rectifier can actually
discharge your battery while you ride. The battery can
somewhat recover while sitting, so it may well start the
bike while its cold, but then not be able to start it
after only a few miles of riding.
If everything on the bike seems to be in perfect order,
and you OCCASIONALLY have a labored
start, or no-start, for no apparent reason, and with no
perceived pattern, then very likely, the rear decomp cam
is loose. A good test for this is to place the bike in
second or third gear when it won't crank, and push it
backwards a few inches while in gear, then try again. If
it starts then, you definately have a loose rear cam.
Pushing the bike backwards while in gear moves the rear
piston back off its compression stroke enough to give the
system a running start at it when you push the button.
This will only happen when the rear cylinder stops on its
compression stroke. Therefore, it seems impossible to
predict when it won't start. Might be cold, might be hot,
might only happen once today, but maybe three times
tomorrow...This occasional no-start is
the prime indicator that the problem lies with the rear
decomp cam. (If the front cam were out of adjustment, it
would NEVER start properly, as both cams would then be
off their specs.)
---Quoted from http://www.moccsplace.com/images/decomp/decomp.htm
Testimonial: "I thought it might be something with the compression stroke as well, it appeared to labor. Finally replaced the starter, hasn't given me a problem sin"
SOURCE: battery location in the bike
It's in a box on the front of the bike located under the oil cooler (looks like a mini radiator and has two hoses going to it). If you look right under that cooler you should see a metal plate with ribs on it (either 3 or 4 ribs) that's the front plate. Just above that is a plastic lid to the battery box.
The battery cables are routed behind the box. Once you get the lid off (two screws one on either side) you should see the indents for the cables in the lid. The battery terminals face the rear of the bike.
Hope this helps.
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