Ktm problems water coming out of overflow pipe on rad when run for a few minutes

Make sure all the drains are closed, start filling the rad and allow the coolant time to drain down, then fill again. Keep filling the rad unit it no longer drains down, just make sure to stop filling it when the level in the rad is just barely visible when looking down inside it. Now fill the overflow bottle to the lowest level mark. Start the car and turn you heater on to full heat. Let it warm up to proper temp, may/may not need to put more in rad. Keep an eye on the level in the rad it will expand and may overflow, if it looks like it will overflow use yout tester to remove some fluid. Once you see the coolant flowing throug the rad wait a few minutes, then put the rad cap on. Let it run a few more minutes to get the rest of the air out, then drive like normal. Check the fluid level in the overflow bottle (engine cold) over the next few days fill to proper level as needed.

Rad cap might be bad or bike overheating try a 50/50 water to antifreeze mix or thermostat

Yes you have a leak on hot pipe or TP overflow tube.
Put ear against pipe to listen for sound of running water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#listen
If TP valve goes into drain line, check if water is running down TP overflow tube.
Check each faucet for leaks.
If pipes are under slab, put ear against each faucet to determine which faucet is closest to broken pipe.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

hi have you tried bleeding the rads this should solve the problem somewhat ,you will need to ajust the overflow in the water tank also but make sure to bleed the rads goodluck

exhaust gas coming thru the resiovoir, sounds like a head gasket

make sure you dont over fill the radiator bottle past max, something else to try is run the system with out the cap on for a few minutes at idle to expel any air pockets in your cooling system.

well if the rad cap is damaged in any way the pressure in the rad drops its like a pressure cooker, if you open it fast it boils up on you,,,big time! so there may just be a small leak there,,its well worth having a good look at this part first pluss any other pipes and joints if all is good it could be the head gasket starting to go this can be tested for with a sniffer test
to find out if there are any hydrocarbons in the water in the rad,, its an easy test,, if there are any the head gasket is going or gone,

That overflow is the Pressure Relief Valve.usually they are set at 3-3.5 bar but over time they can be gunged up inside and leak/allow water to flow out. Dismantle & clean or replace. Turn off mains water and ch pipes before removing - operate valve remove & allow for some water to leak from it

Have you tried removing rad cap when cool & adding coolant while engine running & heater on. let it run through 2 or 3 cycles of rad fan coming on & off before you put cap back on. As far as coolnt return not working properly, possible bad rad cap, or kink in return hose, have a look if that is the problem.

Hi if the heater fan is working properly and blowing into the jeep then that rules out the fan being the problem and depending on how the temp switch works it will either be cable switch ie when you turn the dial it pulls cable adjusting the flaps near the heater rad allowing hot air in or blocking it off so it just let cold air in from the outside.
Now if its an electronic switch this could be your problem you can take switch out and clean the contacts
Is the loss of heat the reason you changed the rad and thermstat or has this problem come after you changed the rad and thermstat.
If the problem occured after you fitted rad and thermstat then your problem is 100% blocked air in water system if this is the case then you need to bleed the system getting all the air out.
What you need to look for is plastic screws attached to any water hose dont undo these with engine hot as the pressure will force water out burning whoever is doing it with cool engine undo these and let any air out.
If air isnt the problem then you will need to replace the heater switch one way of checking for air is by touching the water pipes when engine has been running and see if their is any temp differance anyway its worth bleeding the system anyway just to rule this out.
The heater works off seperat rad that is fed by the main rad the heater rad is located towards back of engine towards the bottom you will see two water pipes running into the bulk head these are the feed and return pipes for the heater rad if you get the engine warm enough to open the thermostat for few minutes then touch both of these for temp if it is an air isuue then one will be cooler than the other let me know ok