How to replace front oil seals, After removing the rubber caps on the top I suspected to see some bolts, but nothing....

Well, yes. The fork seals are located at the top of the fork slider un the "slide tube cap". This makes me wonder exactly what did you replace when you say that you just replaced the "fork seals". To get to these oil seals, you have to disassemble the forks tubes. Remove the front wheel and fenders. Down where you took the axle out, look up into the end of the slider and you'll see a socket head bolt, 6mm. Loosen this bolt before you take the tube out of the triple tree. Remove and repair one tube at the time. When you get the slider off the top tube, you will see a retainer ring in the top of the slider. The seal is under this ring. The new oil seals must be replace squarely in the tube. When you reassemble the tube and put it back in the triple tree, there is a specific amount of fork oil that must be added to each tube to properly refill it. You must use the "dry" quantity when refilling the fork tube because you disassembled and completely drained the tube. I'm sorry but I don't have this quantity of fork oil for this late of a model bike. I work on the earlier model bikes only.

good luck
steve

It is recommended that you lift out the engine before attempting to replace the oil pan. Once the engine is lifted you can remove the bolts, remove the pan, clean all the old gasket material.
Installation: Remove the rear main bearing cap oil seal Remove the timing cover oil seal Clean all the mating surfaces and seal grooves Install new oil pan front cover seals Install a new rear main bearing cap oil seal Install new oil pan side gaskets on the block Make sure the tabs of the front and rear seal fit properly as these are critical spots Attach the oil pan to the engine block and install the retaining bolts

You'll have to take each fork leg out of the front end to change the seals. I'm not positive what type front end is on FXDL but it it's a standard type (as opposed to an inverted front end), it's not too difficult.

First remove any sheet metal that might be covering the upper and lower triple trees. Lift the bike off the ground and remove the front fender and front wheel. Loosen the pinch bolt on the upper and lower triple trees. Do one tube at the time. Lubricate the portion of the top tube that is between the upper and lower triple tree. You must slide the fork assembly out of the triple trees. Loosen but don't remove the top caps.

With the fork assembly now out of the triple trees, remove the top cap and pull the spring out. Notice if the spring has a tapered end. Remember which way it came out so you can put it back in the same way. Invert the tube and pour out the oil and let it drain.

You'll see an 8mm bolt in the bottom. Sometimes this is a shallow piloted bolt. If so, you'll need at least a brand new hex key or allen wrench to loosen the bolt. Take the bolt out and slide the lower slider off the top tube. You now have access to the seal. Make sure you put the seal in faceing the correct way. Rince the slider out on the inside with clean mineral spirits and allow to dry. When you assemble the tube and install it on the bike, the amount of oil you put in it is the "dry" amount since you disassembled the tube and poured all the oil out. Put the sping back in the tube and install the top cap. Insert the tube into the triple trees and slide the tube upwards until the top of the top cap is 0.420" to 0.500" above the top of the upper triple tree (notice the height of the other tube that you haven't moved yet).

Good Luck
steve

If you ask this question YOU should not be doing it! but your *** on the seat not mine.
Remove ...........front wheel, front fender,top fork cap and loosen lower triple clamp bolts under head light cover, forks are now out!
Remove 6mm bolt at the bottom of the fork leg and drain oil,remove dust seal and wire clip, now remove the upper fork nut (the spring will jump out at you).Pull the leg and tube away from each other, the old seal will stay on the tube..clean and reassemble driving NEW seal down into place with wire clip.....refill with oil

and???????????

First you must remove the windshield, front fender, headlight nachelle, and front wheel. Get everything off the front end. Then, take the top cap off of one fork tube at a time. I do this with it still in the front end just in case it's real tight. Once I get the top cap lossened and remvoved, I break the torque on the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree and remove the entire fork tube. With the tube off, I remove the spring and pour out all the oil. Make sure you look at the sping as you take it out, One end is different from the other and you want it back in the correct way. Now, with the oil and spring out, look at the lower end of the tube where the axle is held into the lower slider. You'll see a socket head bolt. This bolt takes an 8mm hex key. I use an air wrench to take this bolt out. Once you've got the bolt out, the inner fork tube will pull up and out of the lower slider. Pull off the rubber boot and there's snap ring just inside the top end of the slider. Remove this and pry out the old seal noting which direction the seal is facing. They go in with the lip facing down. Install the new seal and reassemble the fork tube. Install this tube on the bike, add the proper quantity of oil, install the spring and top cap, and retighten the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. Then, do the other side the same way. Reassemble all parts taken off. Note: Reinstalling the top cap on some models can be pretty tough and my require a special frok spring compressor. Good Luck.

Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?

Lift the front of the car and support it on jack stands. Open the hood. Run the engine for a max of 5 mins. The goal is to warm the oil without making it (or anything you may touch) too hot (avoiding burns). remove the oil filler cap on the valve cover.

Put a pan below the oil filter (drivers side on the 4.6l v-8 engine). Unscrew the oil filter with a suitable oil filter wrench. Counterclockwise rotation will remove it. allow the oil in this area to drain fully.

Move the pan under the engine's oil pan. At it's lowest point there will be an angled bolt. Carefully loosen the bolt (counterclockwise rotation). Expect a healthy stream of oil to flow out quickly. Dont drop the bolt, it has a magnet on the end that will show if you have and metal debris in the engine oil. A few little flakes are nornal, chunks are not and indicates some engine problems.

When the oil has drained out, replace the bolt being careful not to overtighten (it's easy to strip the threads then you will have bigger problems). The washer on the bolt will seal from leaks so no need to overtorque it.

Next fill the filter with fresh oil and rub a slight amount on the rubber gasket seal at the perimeter of the filter. Install the oil filter until the gasket seal touches the milled face of the engine block. Turn 1/4 to 1/2 turn further to seal correctly.

Fill with the required amount of oil. Install the oil filler cap, visually inspect for any oil leaks. If none, start the engine and make sure the oil pressure dash light goes out (or the needle indicates pressure) within 5 seconds. If not, turn off engine quickly. If oil pressure is good, let it run for 1-2 mins. Turn it off, check under the car, and around the fliter for any fresh leaks. With the engine off, check the oil level on the dipstick with the car on level ground. If you need a little more oil to keep the level in the marked area on the dipstick, add some. DO NOT overfill the engine. Engine damage will occur. If you've put too much oil in, remove the drain bolt (as explained above).
Drop your used oil off at a collection depot (dont pour it down the drain, it's totally toxic to organic life).

You're done.

did you check the pulley on the crank shaft ??
is it warped ?? ( bent )
because i do not think that the truck will run with the crankshaft moving.....back and forth.
so in any case you have a lot of work to do.
here is how to remove the crank shaft.
REMOVAL

1. Remove the oil pan.
2. Remove the oil pump from the rear main bearing cap.
3. Remove the vibration damper.
4. Remove the timing chain cover.
5. Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
6. Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
7. Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seals.
8. Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil seal.

INSTALLATION

1. Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil.
2. Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
3. Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
4. Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
5. Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
1. Apply 5 mm (0.20 inch) drop of Loctite 518, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT over apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
2. lb align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than 2 times for proper engagement.
3. Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
4. Install oil pump.
5. Install the timing chain cover.
6. Install the vibration damper.
1. Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
2. Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
3. Immediately install the oil Dan.

if you have an email address i can send some images