Not familiar with this exact model but I have tested other stators. There should be 3 wires of the same color at the connector. This would be a 'Y' wound stator, all 3 are connected to each other. I f you don't have the ohm specs just check for resistance with an ohm meter. All 3 should show continuity to each other no matter what order you test. And, NONE should show continuity to ground. If the stator is removed, ground would be to the iron stator core.
SOURCE: 2009 kawasaki klx 250 - need correct procedure for
•Using the jack under the frame, and stabilize the motorcycle.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001–1238
•Loosen the left and right axle clamp bolts •Unscrew the axle nut . •Place a stand under the engine to raise the front wheel
off the ground. •Remove the axle, and pull out the wheel. Take off the
collars and caps from each side of the front hub.
CAUTION
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc
facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not
touch the ground.
•Insert a wood wedge between the disc brake pads this
prevents them from being moved out of their proper position,
should the brake lever be squeezed accidentally.
Front Wheel Installation •Apply grease to the seals. •Fit the projection on the cap to the groove on the collar. •Install the caps , collars on the left (longer collar)
and right (shorter collar ) side of the hub. •Insert the axle from right side. •Unbolt the right and left axle clamp bolts temporally. •Tighten the axle nuts •Tighten the left axle clamp bolts.
Torque - Front Axle: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
Left Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5
ft·lb)
NOTE
○Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure
even tightening torque.
SOURCE: Recommended motor oil for a 2001 kawasaki KLX 300
G'Day b shrum,
You can download a service manual for the bike here, (click on "free user") I checked the link working fine for now at least. Get a copy for yourself while the link is hot.
The Kawasaki shop manual suggest Engine Oil as
SE Class SAE viscosity of 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50
Is really a subjective thing, use the oil that suits your riding conditions, and climate. 10w40 for lower temps, 20w50 for hotter heavier duty conditions. Thicker oil protects better, thinner oil makes you go faster :)
I suggest using any good quality synthetic oil engineered for motorcycles. The brands here are endless. Chose what you can afford, but always get good quality oil and change it and the oil filter every 1000 k's
regards
robotek
* STATOR
(1) Measure the insulation resistance between
BLUE lead and the core.
(2) Measure the insulation resistance between
WHITE lead and the core.
(3) Measure the insulation resistance between
YELLOW lead and the core.
(4) Measure the insulation resistance between
BROWN lead and the core.
AC Winding
White / Red = 0.2 Ohm
Black / Blue = 0.25 Ohm
Condensor Winding
Yellow / Yellow = 0.58 Ohm
* ROTOR
Measure the insulation across one of the soldered
terminals of the rotor and the core
Then test across the 2 soldered terminals of the rotor.
Resistance = 1.75 Ohm
NOTE 1 :
Because a diode is soldered to the coil ends at
the terminals, resistance may be measured only
when tester probes touche the terminals in one
combination of polarity. Therefore, if no resistance
reading appears, try checking in reverse polarity.
Diode rectifier test (Lovated between the 2 capacitors)
Orange wire should read to all of the other terminals.
Both Brown wires should read to the Brown White wire (Note polarity)
Those are pretty much the checks that you can do and should reveal where the problem lies.
I think you may have a burned wire / terminal somewhere inside the control panel.
Usually when they just stop working the failures are
1. The rotor (Bad and horribly expensive news)
2. Capacitor wires (Yellow) open
3. Stator wires damaged.
The stators on these units do not usually fail.
All manuals for this unit can be found here (Owner's / parts / Service)
http://www.robinamerica.com/productsupport.aspx?pid=28
If the link doesn't work use:
http://www.robinamerica.com Choose Power products and then customer support. Manuals.
This should give you something to work with. Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition key switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-18. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into either stator socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (? ohms)
across either stator socket.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-19. Remove ground lead. Insert lead into
the remaining stator socket.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale.
a. Resistance across the stator sockets should be 0.1-
0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is lower, a short is indicated. The
stator is damaged and must be replaced.
c. If resistance is higher (OL on meter), an open is
indicated. Stator is damaged and must be replaced
Now I will not swear that the resistance numbers are correct for your sporty but I would think that the same applies, less resistance means a short.
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