2001 kawasaki KLX 300 Logo

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Jeff Kroo Posted on May 22, 2014

Whats the correct procedure for measuring the resistance on the Stator, 2001 KLX 300. Which wires get tested and in which order?

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jmhsn

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  • Posted on May 25, 2014
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Not familiar with this exact model but I have tested other stators. There should be 3 wires of the same color at the connector. This would be a 'Y' wound stator, all 3 are connected to each other. I f you don't have the ohm specs just check for resistance with an ohm meter. All 3 should show continuity to each other no matter what order you test. And, NONE should show continuity to ground. If the stator is removed, ground would be to the iron stator core.

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Anonymous

  • 377 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2009

SOURCE: 2009 kawasaki klx 250 - need correct procedure for

•Using the jack under the frame, and stabilize the motorcycle.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001–1238
•Loosen the left and right axle clamp bolts •Unscrew the axle nut . •Place a stand under the engine to raise the front wheel
off the ground. •Remove the axle, and pull out the wheel. Take off the
collars and caps from each side of the front hub.
CAUTION
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc
facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not
touch the ground.
•Insert a wood wedge between the disc brake pads this
prevents them from being moved out of their proper position,
should the brake lever be squeezed accidentally.
Front Wheel Installation •Apply grease to the seals. •Fit the projection on the cap to the groove on the collar. •Install the caps , collars on the left (longer collar)
and right (shorter collar ) side of the hub. •Insert the axle from right side. •Unbolt the right and left axle clamp bolts temporally. •Tighten the axle nuts •Tighten the left axle clamp bolts.
Torque - Front Axle: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
Left Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5
ft·lb)
NOTE
○Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure
even tightening torque.

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Anonymous

  • 1512 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 08, 2010

SOURCE: Recommended motor oil for a 2001 kawasaki KLX 300

G'Day b shrum,
You can download a service manual for the bike here, (click on "free user") I checked the link working fine for now at least. Get a copy for yourself while the link is hot.
The Kawasaki shop manual suggest Engine Oil as SE Class SAE viscosity of 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50 Is really a subjective thing, use the oil that suits your riding conditions, and climate. 10w40 for lower temps, 20w50 for hotter heavier duty conditions. Thicker oil protects better, thinner oil makes you go faster :)
I suggest using any good quality synthetic oil engineered for motorcycles. The brands here are endless. Chose what you can afford, but always get good quality oil and change it and the oil filter every 1000 k's
regards robotek

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How to test stator dr 650 suzuki 1997?

Find the three identical wires (usually yellow) that come out of the left case and go to the rectifier/regulator. Disconnect the wires and measure the resistance across any two of them. Switch the ohmmeter leads from one wire to the other in any order. You should read a very low resistance between any two wires in any direction. If one is high, the stator is bad. If one is very low the stator is bad. They should all read very close to the same.
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Not charging 2001 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

Check you stator output. Find where the wires come out of the stator and unplug them. In the plug you should find either 3 white wires or 3 yellow wires. Test for short to the bike by attaching your blaCk meter lead to the bike frame which should be cleaned for good ground or clip it to the negative post of your battery. Then touch your red lead to all 3 wires one at a time. Any reading at all dictates a short and the stator needs to be replaced. Then check the 3 wires with the neg and pos leads you should get a small resistance reading that'll be normal. If it checks out then your next culprits would in all likely hood be your regulator. Hook up your meter to your battery red on red black on black. Fire up the bike and rev it up to see battery voltage. Anything over 14.3 usually indicates you do have a charging problem. Try another regulator if all else checks out like I explained to you. Remember no resistance allowed on any of the white or yellow wires when meter lead is grounded to the bike.
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My robin subaru 11hp gen just stopped producing elect

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Robin 11 Hp I am guessing here... RGV6100 (Model?)

Things to look for:
1. Open the control panel and inspect the capacitors and the YELLOW wires from the capacitors going to the stator. Look for signs of wax leakage from the long silver 28 MFD capacitors. You would see it in the bottom of the control panel enclosure. Probe the capacitors with a meter on a resistance (ohms) scale of R X 10,000. You should see a huge jump in resistance and then the meter drifts to infinity. Reverse the test leads looking for the same indication.

2. Inspect for any loose connections from the control panel to the stator. Look for dark or hot connections. Repair as needed.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Stator checks

* STATOR

(1) Measure the insulation resistance between

BLUE lead and the core.

(2) Measure the insulation resistance between

WHITE lead and the core.

(3) Measure the insulation resistance between

YELLOW lead and the core.

(4) Measure the insulation resistance between
BROWN lead and the core.

AC Winding
White / Red = 0.2 Ohm
Black / Blue = 0.25 Ohm

Condensor Winding
Yellow / Yellow = 0.58 Ohm


* ROTOR

Measure the insulation across one of the soldered
terminals of the rotor and the core

Then test across the 2 soldered terminals of the rotor.

Resistance = 1.75 Ohm

NOTE 1 :

Because a diode is soldered to the coil ends at

the terminals, resistance may be measured only

when tester probes touche the terminals in one

combination of polarity. Therefore, if no resistance
reading appears, try checking in reverse polarity.


Diode rectifier test (Lovated between the 2 capacitors)

Orange wire should read to all of the other terminals.
Both Brown wires should read to the Brown White wire (Note polarity)

Those are pretty much the checks that you can do and should reveal where the problem lies.

I think you may have a burned wire / terminal somewhere inside the control panel.
Usually when they just stop working the failures are
1. The rotor (Bad and horribly expensive news)
2. Capacitor wires (Yellow) open
3. Stator wires damaged.
The stators on these units do not usually fail.

All manuals for this unit can be found here (Owner's / parts / Service)
http://www.robinamerica.com/productsupport.aspx?pid=28

If the link doesn't work use:
http://www.robinamerica.com Choose Power products and then customer support. Manuals.

This should give you something to work with. Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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I have a electrical dead short somewhere on the bike. It is a 2001 1200 Sportster. I have replaced the voltage regulator and the ignition switch. I have searched the wire connections around the fuse box,...

Yes it is possible the alternator/stator is shorted. I'm not all that familliar with sportster electrical systems but here is the short circut test for a dyna. it should at the very least tell you if the stator is shorted.

Stator Check

1. Turn ignition key switch OFF.

2. See Figure 1-18. Connect an ohmmeter.

a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator

stator wiring.

b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into either stator socket.

c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.

3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale.

a. A good stator will show no continuity (? ohms)

across either stator socket.

b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which

must be replaced.

4. See Figure 1-19. Remove ground lead. Insert lead into

the remaining stator socket.

5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale.

a. Resistance across the stator sockets should be 0.1-

0.2 ohms.

b. If the resistance is lower, a short is indicated. The

stator is damaged and must be replaced.

c. If resistance is higher (OL on meter), an open is
indicated. Stator is damaged and must be replaced

Now I will not swear that the resistance numbers are correct for your sporty but I would think that the same applies, less resistance means a short.

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KMX WONT START

try replacing spark plug 1st set at proper gap. next take plug cap off wire by unscrewing it from wire. hold 1/4" from motor and crank. if none, trim 1/8" off wire and retry. your pulser coil could be out. get multimeter, get service manual, find resistance reading,unplug stator/pulser coil plug(S) follow manual test procedure for testing stator coil, and pulser. check ign coil,make sure grounded to frame,clean rust, check resistance readings(manual) or test system w/ known good unit. lastly check wiring for continuity if no fire.
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Headlight

violet i have checked the ground at the headlight and it is good. I also get no power at the yellow wire coming from the stator i do get power from the white wire coming from the stator. If i disconnect the wires from the headlight i then get no power from the white wire off the stator. if i disconect the yellow wire from the stator i also get no power from the white off the stator all connections seem to be fine and the bike runs great. the bulb is good please help! thanks all.,It sounds like you may have lost the stator ground or one of the windings is open. Measure the resistance from the yellow wire to ground and from the white wire to ground. Each winding should be less than 1 ohm to ground. You should also be able to measure resistance across the white and yellow leads. Here again, less than 1 ohm. __________________,,,
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