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There are 2 holes at the bottom of the master cylinder, one is really small, clean them with hard thin wire while squeeze the clutch lever.
It is O.K., if you get a bubble when you released the lever.
There is only one bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder so you can't be loosening the wrong part if you're opening the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder.
Look at the air cleaner and find the big hose that goes to the throttle body. The clutch slave cylinder is an inch or two right below the air cleaner side of the giant hose. There is a heat shield over the half of the slave cylinder near the exhaust crossover pipe. The bleeder screw is at the driver's side end of the slave cylinder.
1.) fill resovior 2.) remove bolts connecting the slave cylinder to the bell housing, and remove slave cylinder (leave the line connected if possible)- if not remove line and then reconnect once slave is removed from bell housing. 3.) open bleeder valve on slave, if fluid starts to run out then let it run for 8 to 10 min (all the while keeping an eye on the resovior fluid level, making sure it stays relitivly full.) 4.) close bleeder valve. 5.) top off resovior. 6.) hold slave cylinder in hand, in some way that you can actuate the plunger rod, open the bleeder valve and depress the rod untill it stops, while holding pressure on rod close the bleeder valve. 7.) release the plunger rod. 8.) repeat steps 6. & 7. untill fluid running out of bleeder valve is a steady streem with no air bubbles. (check resovior appr. every 2nd time to ensure it dose not go dry. 9.)re-install slave cylinder and resovoir cap.
Are you talking about the clutch? If so, it is on the front of the cylinder under some wires and stuff. Its a pain to get at but do-able. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and mid depth socket when I replaced mine and had to bleed the system. If your having a problem with bleed down of the hydrolics replace the master and the slave. I did just the master and ended up replacing the slave too.
Put the handlebars in position to have the hydraulic cylinder as level as possible. Remove the reservoir cover and diaphragm. Don't let clutch fluid get on plastic or painted parts. The finish will be damaged. Add fluid to the line level on master cylinder casing.
Remove left rear crankcase cover.
Remove cap from the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder Put a box end wrench on the bleed valve then put a clear hose on the nipple and immerse the end of the hose in clean brake fluid.
Pump the clutch lever at moderate speed to eliminate air through the master cylinder. Tap the cylinder to release air clinging to the line. Do this until no more bubbles rise from the cylinder.
Now pump the lever several times and hold the lever in. Crack open the bleed valve and let fluid and air bubbles escape into the clear hose . Close the bleeder then release the lever slowly. Wait a few seconds then repeat the process until no more bubbles are coming from the bleeder. Keep an eye on the reservoir and add fluid as needed.
Remove the clear hose and put all parts back into position.
My guess is that unless it leaked out, your master or slave cylinder is going out. But I assume you must have already checked the reservoir to see if it has any brake fluid in it. So crack open that bleeder valve down there at the slave cylinder and let it drip while you keep the res. full. When you stop seeing air bubbles, close the bleeder and top off fluid. Great Job!
Did you bleed the system? There is probably a bleeder on the slave cylinder and you may need to jemmy the selector fork/ Also look fro a damper valve between the master and slave cylinder... it will need bleeding too.
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