With the fender and air clearner box bolts removed I notice the fenfer will not move does the fender have to be detatched from the tail light end?

some manufacturers use a sticky tape/silastic to seal the area around the assembly where it goes into the fender as well as mounting bolts to hold it in position
check for a 4th screw where it would be hard to fit a socket

Place on center stand, remove rear wheel, remove passenger seat, unplug turn and tail light wires, you will see 2 nuts or bolts holding grab rail, remove these, there is also one small bolt in the center between the grab rail bolts, remove it, be careful as you remove it as fender will now drop out.

To remove the rear fender, you'll have to remove the 4 or 5 bolts that attatch your fender rail to fender, to keep from scratching the paint on the fender when you remove it, loosen one of the fender rails (struts) more than the other side so you can remove fender without scratching it. Becareful with your tail light wiring when your taking the license plate mount/tail light off.

To remove a 2011 VRSCDX rear fender FIRST remove the main fuse under the right side cover first, then remove the tail light open the seat, remove the seat pillion, remove the fasteners and the passenger pillion, remove the electrical caddy and the six fasteners and the washers from the fender, remove the fender from the inner fender by lifting upward and sliding the fender back, remove the inner fender by removing the rear shocks and fasteners.

To install a 2011 VRSCDX rear fender FIRST install the inner fender and fasteners, tighten the fasteners to 95-110 Nm (75-81 ft-lbs), install the rear shocks using shock mount fasteners and tighten the fasteners to 41-68 Nm (31-50 ft-lbs), install the rear fender by sliding it into the slot on the tail lamp panel and aligning the fender with the bolt holes on the inner fender, install the six fender fasteners and tighten them to 4.5-7.5Nm (40-66 in-lbs), install the tail lamp, install the passenger pillion and its fasteners. And tighten them to 20-26 Nm (15-19 ft-lbs), install the main fuse, install the right side cover and ensure that the headlamp, tail lights and stop lamp and turn signals are operating properly.

Battery Replacement

Removal Procedure

Disconnect the negative battery cable (2). Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure .

Remove the wheelhouse liner. Refer to Wheelhouse Liner Replacement - Front .

Lower the vehicle.

Open the positive battery cable connection cover.

Loosen the positive battery cable bolt.

Remove the positive battery cable (1).

Remove the front fender rear bracket to side rail bolts.

Remove the front fender to front fender rear bracket upper (1) and lower (2) bolts.

Remove the front fender rear bracket.

Remove the battery hold down retainer bolt and retainer.

Important: Do not tip the battery more than 40 degrees during removal.

Remove the battery.



Installation Procedure

Important: Do not tip the battery more than 40 degrees during battery installation.

Install the battery.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Install the battery hold down retainer and bolt. Tighten the bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Install the front fender rear bracket.

Install the front fender rear bracket to side rail bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

Install the front fender to front fender rear bracket upper (1) and lower (2) bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

Install the positive battery cable (1).

Tighten the positive battery cable bolt. Tighten the bolt to 17 N·m (13 lb ft).

Close the positive battery cable connection cover.

Install the wheelhouse liner. Refer to Wheelhouse Liner Replacement - Front .

Connect the negative battery cable (2). Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure .
hope this helps . please rate my response.

The whole tail light assembly must be removed.Pop out 2 plastic covers near the tail light in the trunk. inside there are 2 bolts,one at the top and one near the bottom..Use a 10mm long socket,1/4 inch, with about an 6 inch extention on it.One of the bolts ( top, is off center) I put some heavy grease in the socket to hold the nuts from falling off when they come are off,so they don't fall behind the plastic wall..After you get them off,this is the "trick to remove the whole assembly without breaking it.It is very tight and hard to remove it due to a cliip at the front ,forward part of the light assembly.on the outside front,on the fender,Squirt some WD-40 on the pointed top part of the plastic light housing,letting it run down behind the housing on the outside. It has a clip in behind it on the fender.If you don't lube it ,it is very hard to release..Now I used the open end of a 1/4 inch socket extention to push on the lower bolt,inside the trunk,and you will see that the light housing will start to come out.do not force it.Get a piece of thin,strong string and make a loop out of it.Tuck the string behind the pointed tip of the housing,on the front part of the fender,so it will help pull the housing STRAIGHT BACK,while pushing on the bottom bolt inside of the trunk.This gives you 2 pressure points to pull and push out the housing.if you don't do them evenly,at the same time,you may end up breaking off the corner outside piece on the fender.If you bend it,it may break the plastic.
I know this sounds complicated when you first read this,but it WILL work,without damaging the tail light housing !!!
The dealer would probably charge you at least $ 50 to $75 to do this job.I am from Canada and I hate the Nissan dealerships.They don't want you to do ANY maintenance by yourself...
GOOD LUCK !!!

You willl have to loosen the nuts that retain the tail light assembly to the fender, then access the turn signal from the front of that assembly. You'll need an open-end wrench to break the t/s nut loose.

Here are the full instructions for both right and left.

Passenger Side:

1) Use a 10 mm socket to remove the two bolts on the radiator overflow bottle. Move the bottle and place it in an upright position between the radiator and the dipstick (if the engine is cold) or on top of the grille by the hood release. You will notice that the overflow rubber tube will lift off the windshield-washer bottle cap. Replace the cap so nothing falls in.

2) On the passenger-side fender you will see a bracket that one of the bolts came from. That too is bolted to the fender with a 10 mm head bolt. Remove the bolt and bracket.

3) You will see a large round cover; this is where the low beam bulb is located. Remove the cover by turning it right/clockwise (as viewed from the outside-front of the car) or by turning it left/counterclockwise (as viewed from inside the car). When you can no longer turn the cover, pull it out.

Note: I found it difficult to align the covers behind the lights. You have to figure out which little square goes where on the lamp assembly. I put a mark on the cover before I took it off and then I put another mark on the lamp assembly, aligned with the mark on the cover, after I turned the cover to remove it. Doing this will make it easy to reinstall the cover.

4) The cover has a rubber gasket inside the will prevent you from completely removing the cover. However, you can pull the cover back a few inches and change the bulb. I suggest that you see how the bulb goes in so it aligns correctly.

5) There is a metal clip that holds in all H1 bulbs. This one is a real pain to get off. On the bottom of the bulb housing you will see a little ring. First push it down (towards the ground), then push it to the left (as viewed from the outside-front of the car). You may want to use a 4" long piece of tape to hold the clip up and out of the way.

6) Put the bulb in and clip it in place.

7) To install the turn-signal and high-beam lights, simply turn each to the right/clockwise (as viewed from the outside-front of the car) or left/counterclockwise (as viewed from inside the car) and pull the bulb out.

8) Put everything back together.

Driver Side:

1) Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the air box down (this is on the gold colored bracket on the driver-side fender).

2) Release the two clips that hold the air-filter box together and remove the filter. You can then lift the top of the air box out of the way.

3) (see pictures) Pull the plastic tube from the under-hood "ram air" assembly towards the front of the car (it will move about 1/4 inch) and then pull the air box and straight out. It takes a little force because it is held in place by two rubber-male shaped plugs that go into holes. Once you have this out, the bulbs are easy to access.

Replacing the air box:

4) Align the air box’s two pointed rubber connectors with their holes and push down hard. Make sure the front air tube is out of the way. One note: there is another intake path at the bottom of the air box. Make sure that the air box is properly aligned with it and the “ram air” intake.

5) After you get the bottom of the air box in, install the bolt on the fender, replace the air filter, and then finish putting everything on.

Note: Total time to remove everything, change the bulbs, and re-install was 15 minutes. I do suggest that after you get the bulbs in and are sure that the round covers are in place correctly (as I mentioned, that was the biggest problem I had) to turn the lights on and make sure they work. I say this because, as you will see, putting the covers on sometimes causes the red wire to disengage from the bulb.

Note: Once you get all the junk out of the way (the air box on the driver’s side and the radiator overflow on the passenger side) you will see a 10 mm bolt right in the middle of the headlight assembly. This is for headlight adjustment.

The previous owner had left a socket on the tap under the fender!! There are two taps on the housing that hold the tail light to the fender. Taking these two off allows the taillight to be removed.

Maybe a little late, but you have to pull both fender liners so it is easier to get to the 3 nuts that hold the bumper to the fenders. There are 2 bolts that hold the bumper to the frame, one on each side underneath. There are 5 bolts that support th bumper to the reinforcement bar. It helps if you remove the air filter box. Once you removed the air filter box you need to remove the other 4 bolts from the second hood latch. The bumper should be ready to remove.