Tank valve wont let fuel to carb - 2007 kawasaki KLR 650

Sounds like it has sat for a while and your jets are gummed in the carb there is a you tube video on this topic that will walk you through the repair other thing to check turn fuel tank valve to off position remove fuel hose at carb slowly turn valve on to see if you have fuel to the carb if there is fuel there turn valve off install hose back on carb remove remove hose at tank valve now on the bottom of the carb you will see a plug or screw loosen this ( there may be fuel running out of drain hose have a bucket to catch fuel) now on the hose at tank valve blow threw it ( do not use air compressor) air should blow freely if it dose not your needle valve is stuck and there is no fuel getting to the carb or stuck float or a hole in the float and full of fuel

Floater valve

ck. the intake and exhaust valves, if they don't seal off properly it draw fuel therefore it wont start.

Most of these engines have fuel tanks with a small valve (often plastic) that open / close the fuel supply from the tank to the tubing that connects to the carb. The in-line type looks like this:



Some of these devices are part of the tank - regardless of the exact physical location, it will be somewhere between the carb and fuel tank. The handle should be aligned with the connection tubes to be open or across to be closed. May sure your's is open.

The other items that could be the problem is the fuel filter. These are also most often found as an in-line device and have different appearances. Generally, the only devices between the tank and carb are the shut off valve and fuel filter, so if its not one it is likely the other. Here's a picture of a couple typical fuel filters:



Note that most fuel filters are directional. Point the arrow on the case in the direction of the fuel flow - which is toward the carb.

If you remove a hose from these components, some fuel will spill. If the shut off valve is open, the tank will begin to drain too, until you close the valve. You can test for fuel availability to the carb by removing the fuel supply tube from the carb. If fuel begins to flow, there is no obstruction with the valve, filter or tubing.

If these fixes don't solve the problem, make sure the opening in the tank isn't clogged with debris and that the carb is clean (use a cleaning spray designed for carb cleaning)

I hope this helps & good luck!

The primer pulls fuel from the metering side of the carb, if there is no fuel here it is because either the fuel filter in the tank is blocked, or the fuel hose is trapped, or the non return valve in the carb itself is stuck, this can happen if the saw has been left with a rich oil mixture left in it.

The fuel pump is one of the probable faults, or the needle valve in carb is stuck in closed position.

If the fuel hose is removed at carb, it should squirt gas as the engine is cranked over. If not, look in tank to see if the screen on the barb threaded into the tank has not clogged up with debris. If it is clean, replace fuel pump.

If it squrits gas- open up the carb and check to make sure the float is able to pull the needle valve down as well as the float level setting. When the bowl is exposed, look for sediment as well.

I have seen a couple of different things cause this... Are the fuel lines hooked up and not split and fuel filter routed right in tank.(hanging freely touching bottom of tank lying flat) next if your carb has adj. screws H &L I have seen when the H is cranked snug (lean) that primer won't work right. Last but not least your Needle inlet valve is stuck shut and or the fuel pump diaphram little tabs are not sealing off chambers in carb on fuel pump side. make sure your fuel lines are properly hooked up to the right spots. when you push primer bulb it should squirt gas into the fuel tank, then when you release it ,it should draw fuel from the tank through the filter and thru the carb and then out to tank.

The float needle valve has probably stuck in the closed position, probably caused by fuel gum. Worst case scenario is to take the carb off and clean it. Easiest scenario is to remove the fuel line and squirt carb cleaner into the valve area. Leave it overnight. Sometimes carb cleaner and tapping the carb will move it. Low pressure air can help. Once it's clear add some injector / carb cleaner to a tank of fresh fuel ( double or tripple the normal doseage won't hurt.)

Not so many reasons she won't start. 4-Strokes are Simple!

Here they are:

Motor:
Fuel Tank-> Fuel Line-> Fuel Filter-> Carb-> Intake (Valve)-> Piston-> Exhaust (Valve)-> Muffler

Carb (Old Style):
Fuel Side:
Fuel Bowl-> Float-> Needle Seat-> Fuel Ports (Venturi)
Air Side:
Air Filter-> Carb Air Intake-> Butterflies (2)
(Clean 'em ALL!)

Hardware (Motor):
Rotor (Magnets)-> Magneto (Ignition Coil)-> Spark Plug Wire-> Spark Plug-> Cylinder Head (Spark Plug Ground)

Ignition:
Kill Switches (Seat, Clutch, etc.)-> Spark Plug/Ignition Coil-> Ground
Key Ignition-> Battery->Starter/Generator

If one of those fail.......= Non-Starting 4-Stroke!

Fixes-
Fuel:
You are either getting too much, or too little. Too much = Carb.
Too little = Carb. Therefore, tear down the Carb (COMPLETELY-Careful!) and clean it up.

Electrical:
Grounding out the System (Kill Switches)
Battery-> Ignition-> Starter.
Magneto->Plug Wire->Plug (Check 'em all!)

• The first thing to do with ANY engine that has sat for any longer than a couple of months is to dump ALL the fuel in the tank and carb(s). ALL OF IT !! You'll want to refill with some high priced fuel that has fuel system cleaners (Like Chevron with Techron) not becasue you need high-test fuel, but because you need the cleaners. It's ether that or disassemble the carbs and clean out jets you can't find much less see. Your choice. The carb kits alone will cost you about $50 so a tank of high-test is looking pretty good, huh?

• Now the fact that you tried to crank the engine with old fuel has fouled the sparkplugs. Go buy a new sparkplug.

• If your bike has a vacuum fuel valve, then you'll also need to set the valve to "Prime".