Bled clutch no pressure why

The clutch system in your vehicle most likely works very similar to your brake system. In most cases, it may even use brake fluid as its working fluid. If you drive a classic car or truck you may have a mechanical clutch meaning it operates by a system of levers, pivot points and connecting rods to translate the movement of the clutch pedal into movement of your clutch pressure plate releasing the clutch. New cars use hydraulic clutch systems because they are much simpler to install, take up less space and do not require adjustment as your clutch wears down.
If you have replaced the clutch slave or master cylinder, the lines, or simply changed the fluid, you need to do an adequate job removing the air from the system before your clutch will work properly. This procedure is called "bleeding" your clutch system by most mechanics and is important because air in a hydraulic system will cause it to malfunction. As you press the clutch pedal, the master cylinder forces hydraulic fluid, in this case brake fluid, down through the line into the slave cylinder. The pressure of this fluid will cause the slave cylinder to activate, pushing your clutch fork and disengaging your clutch. If there is air in the system, that air bubble can compress. This compressing air bubble will absorb much of the fluid being sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder keeping the slave cylinder from actuating as far as it should, or even at all. If the slave cylinder does not travel as far as it should, your clutch will not fully disengage making it difficult to shift your transmission, especially into 1st gear from a stop.
To remove the air from your clutch system you need to push or pull the air down through the fluid line to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. To keep things clean you should attach a tube to the nipple on the bleeder valve. If you use a clear tube it can be easy to see when all the air has exited the system. The easiest way to bleed the clutch is to use a vacuum pump to pull the fluid and air out of the system while keeping the clutch fluid reservoir topped off. Continue pumping fluid from the bleeder valve until you no longer see air bubbles in the fluid. If you do not have a vacuum pump, you can do this manually with a friend.
With the bleeder valve closed, have your helper depress the clutch pedal as far as they can. Open the bleeder valve and allow the fluid to run out until it slows down, while your friend maintains pressure on the clutch pedal. When the fluid flow slows, while your Helper still has pressure on the clutch pedal, close the bleeder valve. Let the clutch pedal back up and repeat the process. Continue this process until no more air bubbles are seen exiting the bleeder valve. Your helper should feel the pedal (stiffen up) as you complete this process as air is easier to compress than the clutch plate release springs.
When you have completed this procedure make sure the bleeder valve is tightly closed, and go for a test drive!

GRAVITY BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
PRESSURE BLEEDING

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
   
2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
   
5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
   
6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.
   

MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
   
2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
   
3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
   
5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
   
8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

If you're talking about an hydraulic clutch system that uses brake fluid:
1. Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
2. Have an assistantpull the clutch pedal up and leave it there.
3. Locate the slave bleeder - the slave is connected to the master, is located on the transmission housing and pushes the clutch release lever).
4. Open the bleeder and have the assistant push the clutch pedal down.
5. Close the bleeder.
6. Make sure there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir
7. Repeat steps 2-4-5-6 until brake fluid comes out with uniform pressure from the bleeder. Non uniform pressure is sign there may be air in the system.
There should be good pressure at the pedal now in the up position. Pressing it should disengage the clutch.

Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa). NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. To bleed the system perform the following:
   1. Top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir using a fluid that meets the standards of the vehicle's hydraulic system.
   2. Open the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal down.
   3. Close the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
   4. Release the clutch pedal.
   5. Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
3. Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.

All clutch master or slave cylinders are bled at the slave.
It has a small bleeder valve you can turn with a wrench, to open and close.
This is always a 2 person operation.
With no pressure on the clutch pedal, the value is opened on the slave.
The petal is pushed all the way down and held.
The bleeder valve is then closed.
Only then is the petal released and allowed to return all the way up.
Repeat until you have refilled the reservoir at least once, and the fluid is clear.
If there is air in the system, you may see nothing coming out at first, then foam later. You are not done until clear fluid comes out.
You can also use your finger on the open bleeder, as a one way valve, to speed up the operation, and to feel the pressure.
Careful, because brake fluid in the clutch system can be hard on paint.
Won't hurt skin though.

Likely the clutch master cylinder on the handlebar needs rebuilding--a check valve or piston cup is bypassing fluid when pressure tries to build up. If it was the slave cylinder, it would probably be leaking fluid. Same with the coupling hose.

clutch and brake fluid should be change every couple of years, Since the fluid does attract moisture, and degrade the efficiency of the brake and clutch action.

If replacing master or slave, bench bleed the new unit prior to installation.

If just bleeding air out after routine service, apply lever a few times, hold in squeezed position, and open bleeder valve to release air/fluid for a second or two. Close bleeder before releasing clutch lever, or else air will be sucked in, not bled out. Start bleeding closest to the reservoir, working down through each connection or bleeder vavle, finally bleeding the last air out of lowest point near clutch slave. It's just like bleeding hydraulic brakes, except completion can be Much more time-consuming. If necessary, apply slight vacuum to lowest (opened) bleeder, while keeping res. full of fluid.

Once fluid flows or drips with no air present, your sys. is bled. CLose bleeder, and top off fluid. Let me know if these notes are not clear, or if you have additional questions. Thanks, TT

One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.

Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.