How can i stop the noise from chain set?

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Ad. Question about 1997 YZF 750 R ... oil light blinking on 2004 yamaha r1 oil lightblinks 10 times stops then blinks 10 ... My yamaha r15 v2 I drive to bike after sometimes yellow engine light on aftersometime I light on to yellow engine light of.

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oil light blinking on 2004 yamaha r1 oil light blinks 10 times stops then blinks 10 times ... Question about 2008 YZF-R15 ... My yamaha r15 v2 I drive to bike after sometimes yellow engine light on aftersometime I light on to yellow engine light of.

[Ownership Thread]: Yamaha YZF-R15 - xBhp.com

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Jul 11, 2013 - 4 posts - ‎3 authors
2months back i got this problem while riding the engine goes off, but ... of heavy traffic after transporting it from my home town. then it works fine and all of a sudden i find the bike engine light blinking. it reads '42'. then after showing it to ... the ECU alone wil cost me to 10k. and obviously it is very expensive ...

Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0 - xBhp.com

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Nov 26, 2013 - According to me the problem of chain with my bike is because i ... list about the required changes at 10k kms like Fork oil change and ... On switching on the ignition, the engine malfunction light, the orange(?) ... From your description that a longblink coupled with 3-4 short blinks it .... All times are GMT +6.5.

Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0 - xBhp.com

Flip bicycle up-side-down so it sits on the seat and handlebars. Loosen the 2 nuts that hold the rear wheel on. Sitting behind the bike on the ground, so that you can align the wheel to a straight position, pull the wheel back so that the chain is snug. You don't need to pull hard, just hold the wheel in place and straight. Using the other hand, slowly tighten the axle nuts back down until the wheel is held in place. Once the nuts are tight enough to securely hold the wheel, tighten the nuts. Sometimes this method will make the chain too tight. If this happens, repeat the process as above, only this time when you go to tighten the nuts back down, squeeze the chain slightly to create a bit of slack. Ideally, the chain will be tight enough not to skip or slip, and at the same time, loose enough not to make noise, bind up, or do any damage.

There are "chain tensioners" available that hook around the rear dropouts of the frame and also around the axle, allowing you to tighten the chain to exact specs. simply by tightening or loosening adjuster screws. They will also help to keep things from loosening up over time. These make things much easier and I highly suggest looking into them.

Use any of a variety of oils and lubes available, but try to avoid WD-40 for chain lube. It will stop a squeak for now and make things seem to move smoother, but in the long run, WD-40 will attract dirt and debris to the constantly moving parts of your chain and can shorten the life of a chain considerably. Hope this helps.

~Ed

When is the last time you checked the tension on your primary drive chain? Remove the round plug at the top of the primary cover. You can reach the primary chain through this hole. Use your finger to gauge the up and down movement of the chain. If you need to adjust the chain, on the bottom of the primary is an adjusting bolt with a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster upwards to tighten the chain, lower it to loosen the chain. The chain should have 3/8" to 1/2" of movement with the engine cold. Usually the final drive belt won't make a rattling noise since it's a rubber-like compound. It should have a tension of about 1/2" up and down movement with a force of ten pounds applied to it from the underside of the lower run.

Good Luck
Steve

If your bike is equipped with the newer self tensioning primary chain adjuster, it should have felt tight. This type of tensioner keeps the chain tight by using primary oil in the tensioner. I'd take it to the dealer for service if it's due.

Good Luck
Steve

It might be, but the chain has probably stretched past the limit. If you buy a new chain and match it up to this one, you won't believe the difference. If that is not the problem, take the chain off, take the bar off, clean out the adj screw, make sure it moves, set it back as far as you can, put the bar and chain back on, make sure you are in the drive sprocket, put the nuts on, adj the bar, tighten up the nuts, you should be set. My adj screw gave out long ago, I just pull the bar tight and go. Hope this helps.

Depending on the model, you adjust the chain tension using the screw that is located either between or below the two nuts that hold the sprocket/bar/chain cover. Loosen the nuts and turn the screw clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen. Once you have the tension set, lift up on the bar from underneath and tighten the two nuts. Proper tension should show about half of the chain drive, and should only be done when cold. After 4 to 5 minutes of run time, stop the saw and check the tension again. A little heat in the bar/chain will cause it to loosen up. It will need re-adjusting.

Have you checked the cogs if any are bent . Also make sure nothing is caught in the cogs and chain,Check that chain does'nt have a tight spot on it. if it has it will need replacing or taken off and soaked in penatrine dried properly and reoiled.

Does the noise sound like a whining noise or goes up and down in tone when you reve the bike in nutral? If it does the primarly drive chain needs to be adjusted. Under the bike you will see a bolt with a slot on the end of it and a nut around the bolt. This is the bolt for the chain tightner or nylon adjuster. On the same side of the bike you will see a small cover about couple of inches long with two screws in it holding the cover on. This is the primary drive chain inspection hole. You need to remove the cover and with a good flash light you will see a chain. Make sure the bike is shut off, keys removed and properly secured so it wont move. I recommend a small screwdriver to stick in there to see if you can move the chain up and down. If you can move the chain up and down more than 3/8 of inch it needs to be adjusted by turning the slotted screw clock wise a quarter of a turn. Check the chain after you made the quarter turn for starters and see if the drive chain tighten up. It should have tighten up. Keep turning the screw the same way until the primary drive chain has about 3/8 slack in it. Once again do not tighten the chain so you cant move it. The chain has to have some slack in it or it will or you will damage other components. You may also want to call the harly davidson dealer and give them the model of your bike and they should tell you the adjustment range. I run mine at 3/8 and have no problems. Also have you ever changed the transmission fluid? That would not hurt as well after you have done the above. Before you do the above chain adjustment, you will need to run the bike for a few minutes to operating temparature before the adjustment to allow for expansion.

Once you have made the adjustment, you will haft to place a screw driver in the slotted end of the bolt and use a good oepn end metric wrecnh to tighten the nut. Becareful not to over tighten the nut or it will casue stripping of the threads. Then replcae the chain cover and make sure the gasket looks ok before assemblying it. Its a good idea to pick up this gasket for a few bucks as you have about a 50/50 chance it will leak a little if you use the old one. Someone always asks me how tight do I tighten the bolts or screws. I simply say to them try and remember what it felt like when you had to loosen them. apply the same force to tighten them.