Oil journal bolt, right rear side, has broken it's base

• ENGINE 2.4L

DESCRIPTION

N·m

Ft. Lbs.

In. Lbs.

Balance Shaft Carrier to Block-Bolts

54

40

-

Balance Shaft Gear Cover-Double Ended Fastener

12

-

105

Balance Shaft Sprocket- Bolt

28

-

250

Balance Shaft Chain Tensioner-Bolts

12

-

105

Balance Shaft Carrier Cover-Bolts

12

-

105

Camshaft Sprocket-Bolt

101

75

-

Connecting Rod Cap-Bolts

54 +1/4 turn

40 +1/4 turn

-

Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate - M8 Bolts

34

250

-

M11 Bolts

41 +1/4 Turn

30 +1/4 Turn

-

Crankshaft Damper

136

100

-

Cylinder Head Cover- Bolts

12

-

105

Flex Plate to Crankshaft

95

70

-

Flywheel Mounting Bolts

81

60

-

Engine Mount Bracket Right-Bolts

61

45

-

Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head-Bolts

23

-

200

Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield-Bolts

12

-

105

Intake Manifold - Lower -Bolts

28

-

250

Oil Filter

20

15

-

Oil Pan-Bolts

12

-

105

Oil Pan Drain-Plug

27

20

-

Oil Pump to Block-Bolts

28

-

250

Oil Pump Cover Plate-Bolts

12

-

105

Oil Pump Pick-up Tube-Bolt

28

20

-

Oil Pump Relief Valve-Cap

41

30

-

Spark Plugs

28

Timing Belt Covers - Front Covers to Rear Cover-Bolts

12

-

105

- Rear Cover-Bolts

12

-

105

Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly-Bolts

61

45

-

check and see if the shell stop hasn't broken loose. this on the inside left side of the action . this could stopping the next shell in the mag. from being loaded. this not uncommon. but is an easy fix. a gun smith can stake it back in . in a few minutes for around $20.00

here is a website where you can look for your shotgun and the pics of the different years that it's been made
http://www.remingtonsociety.com/rsa/journals/1100

1994-96 VEHICLES
( see Figures 6 and 7 / click image for zoom )

Fig. 6: Oil pan mounting bolt locations-1996 3.1L engine shown

Fig. 7: Oil pan sealant application points-1996 3.1L engine shown

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   

It may be necessary to remove the hood, with the help of an assistant, for access.

1. Remove the engine mount strut and A/C compressor (if equipped) and the engine mount strut bracket assemblies.
   
2. Remove the electric cooling fan assemblies. -28467 and J 26462, or equivalent.
   
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the engine oil.
   
4. Remove the front exhaust manifold pipe.
   
5. Remove the intermediate shaft bolt/screw.
   
6. Remove the oil level sensor.
   
7. Remove the engine splash shield.
   
8. Suitable support the drivetrain and front suspension with jack stands.
   
9. Remove the transaxle mount side frame retaining nuts from the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
   
10. Remove the engine mount side frame nuts from the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
    
11. Unfasten the rear drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
    
12. If equipped, remove the lower drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
    
13. Remove the engine mount assembly.
    
14. Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
    
15. Remove the starter.
    
16. Disconnect the transaxle mount assembly from the oil pan.
    
17. Unfasten the side bolts and screws and the retaining bolts and screws, then remove the oil pan. Remove and discard the oil pan gasket.

To install:

1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
   
2. Apply a small amount of sealer on either side of the rear main bearing cap, where the seal surface on the cap meets the cylinder block. Install a new gasket on the oil pan.
   
3. Position the oil pan and secure with the retaining bolts and screws. Tighten the retaining bolts and screws to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the side bolts/screws using tool J 39505 or equivalent.
   
4. Fasten the transaxle mount assembly to the oil pan.
   
5. Install the starter motor.
   
6. Install the flywheel inspection cover.
   
7. Install the engine mount assembly.
   
8. Carefully raise the drivetrain and front suspension assembly. Install the rear drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
   
9. Fasten the engine mount frame side nuts to the drivetrain and front suspension frame assembly. Install the transaxle mount frame side nuts to the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
   
10. Remove the jackstands from the drivetrain and front suspension frame assembly.
    
11. Install the engine splash shield and the oil level sensor.
    
12. Install the intermediate steering shaft bolt/screw. Connect the front exhaust manifold pipe.
    
13. Carefully lower the vehicle.
    
14. Remove the engine support tools.
    
15. Install the electric cooling fan assemblies.
    
16. Install the engine mount strut and A/C compressor, bracket and the engine mount strut bracket.
    
17. If removed, install the hood assembly.
    
18. Fill the crankcase to the correct level. Connect the negative battery cable. Run the engine to normal operating temperature and check for leaks.

Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

they normally have 1 or 2 bolts holding them to a mounting bracket and a plastic clip on wire connector.
disconnect the battery
remove and unplug the old regulator
mount and plug in the new regulator

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION - Oil Pan

CAUTION The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. (except 2.5 Premier engine)





Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the lubrication system for all 2.2L and 2.5L except Premier engines



Fig. Fig. 7: Apply sealant to the ends of the new oil pan end seals at the junction of the cylinder block pan rail gasket-1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L except Premier engines



Fig. 8: Clean the gasket mating surface of the oil pan of all old gasket material, dirt, grease or other grime-2.6L engine

1. Apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, then raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
   
2. Drain the engine oil. This would also be a good time to change the oil filter.
3. Remove the engine-to-transaxle struts, if so equipped. These struts prohibit access to the oil pan mounting bolts.
4. Remove the torque converter or clutch inspection cover.
5. Support the oil pan and remove the mounting bolts.
6. Lower the pan and remove the old gasket, if so equipped.
   

To install:

1. Clean all gasket surfaces thoroughly.
2. For 2.6L engines, position a new gasket on the oil pan using a sealer to hold it in place.
   

1981-87 2.2 and 2.5 Liter engine uses a liquid form-in-place type gasket. Chrysler Part Number 4205918, or equivalent RTV gasket material must be used.

1. For 1981-87 2.2 and 2.5L engines, install new end seals and apply the form-in-place gasket sealant. The RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 1 / 8 in. (3mm) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. Uncured RTV may be removed with a rag. The oil pan should be tightened in place while the RTV is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing of the material off location. Make sure to apply sealer where the end seals meet the block.
   

1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines utilize end seals and side gaskets, not liquid gasket as with 1981-87 models.

1. On 1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines, install new end seals and side gaskets. Apply RTV sealant to the parting lines between the end and side seals on these engines. If necessary, use a little grease or RTV sealant to hold the side seals in place.
2. Tighten the pan bolts in a crisscross fashion, starting from the center of the oil pan and working toward the ends, to the following torque values:
   2.6L engine-53-61 inch lbs. (5.9-6.8 Nm) 1981-87 2.2L and 2.5L engines-16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) 1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines-M8 bolts, 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm); M6 bolt, 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
3. Allow the oil pan to sit for 15 minutes to ensure that the RTV sealant has completely set.
4. Install the oil drain plug and a new oil filter, if equipped, then lower the vehicle.
5. Refill the engine with oil
   
6. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

place a jack under the transmission and raise it a bit unbolt (the transmission mount) "i think thats what u mean its all i know that above the transmission holding it in place. You'll need a rachet wrench for this and a long onbe at that,, if not you can use a piece of pipe,, you'll want the extra power.. Unbolt it and lift it off,, if its still too tight jack the transmission up a bit.That providing your refering to the transmissing mounting rubber Which is all i can think you man its the only thing above the transmission. The ABS is 2 parts ,, its a mastercylinder and a booster. Its mounted on the firewall (its the thing you pour brake fluid in.) Unjack any wire or hoses by unscrewiung them and pluging them with something.. DUCT TAAPE or rescue tape works.. Unbloth both the mastercylinder and booster from the firewall... unmounting the drive shat.. well you'll see where it bolts ,, front and back.. Thats the easir part.. you will heed o happer, pull and tug the shaft until it pops out.. Hope I was helpful.. if you need more help please feel free to ask.

not a problem,
jack up your car and block it on side frames,you need to have room to work at rear pun-kin,get a pan for rear gear lube to drain in,remove the bolts on the rear of the housing,yours I think should have 12 holding on inspection cover,When you have removed cover,put car in neutral so you can turn the drive shaft,you will see side gear on left and right,in between those side gears is a round shaft ,turn the drive shaft around until you see at one end of that shaft is a 5/16 bolt holding the shaft in .Ok here comes the part you must be very careful!!!!!!
loosen the 5/16 bolt completely but don't pull it out yet,turn drive shaft until the shaft and bolt are pointing down where the shaft will be able to just clear the housing,ok now hold the pin from falling out with your left thumb and remove the bolt with your right hand,
let the shaft come completely out,
"most important" Don't let anyone turn any of the rear wheels or it will spin the spider gears right up and out!!!!!
Go to the broken axle side of the car or have someone who is helping do it,have them push the axle shaft in towards you,if your watching the axle being pushed in you will see a big horseshoe clip fall down,that is all that holds GM axles in!
once the clip falls you can push the axle out some with your fingers and pull it the rest of the way out,
when you reinstall your new axle you need to get that horseshoe clip that fell,insert the axle without turning it,push in it as far as it will go,then you slide the horseshoe clip in the grooved out spot on the axle,hold in in place while someone pulls the axle out where clip will seat it's self,now slide shaft back in with bolt hole on bottom,you may have to wiggle it a little,when you have it in far enough to get the bolt back in go ahead and tighten the bolt,the rest is cleaning the cover gasket off and installing a new one and tighten all the bolts the same and refill,don't forget to put your car back in park before you let it down,
good luck