Clutch empty fluid replaced master and fluid no pressure

If you mean you step on the clutch, put transmission in gear and release clutch with no engagement (pedal returns to top position) there is a good chance your clutch disc or pressure plate, or both are worn out and need replacing.
If your clutch pedal is going to the floor and not returning there could be a leak in the system, a bad clutch master cylinder or a bad slave cylinder on the transmission. Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. If it is low or empty you have a leak or component failure. Visually inspect clutch master, line, slave cylinder for fluid leaks. replace as needed. If hydraulics are o.k., suspect clutch disc/pressure plate.

Replace the Clutch Master & Slave Assy

Hi Jared,go check your clutch master cylinder,probally empty,if so then maybe your slave cylinder is bad and not holding pressure and leaking,it's located on the side of transmission,very easy to replace,you can get a bleeder kit at Autozone along with a new slave cylinder,here's a link on how to replace,you can fill clutch master cylinder and bleed to get you where you need to go to fix,it will hold pressure for a while.Also get some dot 3 brake fluid,that's what it uses,same fluid as your brakes.

Hi TIM,I got a 85 nissan 720,and check your clutch fluid in reservoir,may be empty,which means your clutch slave cylinder is bad and not holding pressure,here's a link to it,very easy to replace. here's the part.Your clutch master cylinder uses brake fluid,dot 3.

Check your fluid level. If it is full, the clutch master cylinder is likely faulty. If it is empty, fill it and bleed the system, then check for leaks.

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

Yes, hydraulic--check again--fender side of brake master. Slave is usual cause of leak that eventually causes master reservoir to go dry and start drawing air. Check slave for leak. If leaking, replace slave and bleed system. Make sure to bench-bleed slave before installation by opening bleeder and pouring fluid into line port.

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Back off the flare nut on the fluid pipe to free the slave cylinder hose.
3. Pull off the hose-to-bracket retaining clip and pull the hose from the bracket. Cap the pipe to prevent fluid loss.
4. Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).

It is most likely a hydraulic clutch, and it is most likely leaking at the clutch slave cylinder. Check the clutch master cylinder for fluid, it should be a small master cylinder looking thing with a fill cap next to the brake master cylinder and booster unit. If it is empty fill it with the same dot 3 brake fluid that you use for your brake master cylinder, and make sure that you are pouring the fluid into the clutch master cylinder reservoir and not the rubber seal that should be under the fill cap. After filling the clutch master cylinder up with fluid, then try and pump up the clutch pedal. It might take a while to pump up hydraulic pressure, and you might also have to work the pedal a few times by hand at first.

Also, you might have to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder if it will not build up enough pressure to release the clutch.

There are two types of clutch actuators. (Mechanical & Hydtraulic)
A. For mechanical type,- Check the clutch cable as
this could be cut from wear and tear. This is easy
to replace. You can find this connected to the
pedal and the clutch lever near the transmission.
B.For hydraulic operated - Check the level of the
hydraulic oil at the cylinder of the hydraulic
actuator under the hood. This actuator is
directly connected to the pushrod driven by the
pedal. If the actuator is leaking, you have buy
a repair kit (Hyraulic clutch repair kit for Ford
Ranger 1994 MOdel.) These items must be
repaired to activate your pedal.

check the resivior for fluid if it is empty then either the slave cyl or master cyl or possibly both are leaking