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Christopher Alber Posted on Apr 04, 2014
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Leaking brake fluid

I have brake fluid leaking from the bottom of the break assembly on my bike. the disc seems fine however its dirty from the fluid. Do I need to replace the entire assembly or is this a simple fix? At this point there is a lot of fluid that has leaked out. It still has fluid in the res but I dont know for how long. I also need to know where these parts are available at the best prices. This bike is a 2001 so please feel free to be honest about the problems and solutions! no sugar coating needed

  • Christopher Alber
    Christopher Alber Apr 05, 2014

    Sorry it is the front break on the right side of the wheel. Is it safe to assume they all need to be taken care of. Also is this a simple deal or a mechanics nightmare?

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1 Answer

Strech

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  • kawasaki Master 1,562 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 05, 2014
Strech
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Sounds like the seals for the disc caliper pistons are shot, and need replacing.

HOWEVER, you didn't say if it was the Front or Rear brake!

So, rear brake:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2001-kawasaki-vulcan-1500-classic-vn1500e-rear-brake-vn1500-e4/o/m149443sch78489


Front brake:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2001-kawasaki-vulcan-1500-classic-vn1500e-front-brake/o/m149443sch77742


Items Items # 43049 & 43049A for both.

Shop it around on Ebay

  • Strech
    Strech Apr 05, 2014

    IF the seals are in fact the problem (take off the caliper, remove brake pads, and look around the pistons for leakage), the part #s are the same for front and rear. You need one of each of the two parts I listed, PER PISTON! Like I said, shop it around. Your best bet is to find a Caliper Rebuild Kit, which SHOULD also have the seals for the caliper halves, as most calipers you need to/is easier to unbolt and seperate (split) the two caliper halves. To remove the pistons, after removing the brake line, shoot some air into the banjo bolt hole where the brake line bolted into. WARNING!!! DO NOT use the full 90-100 PSI from an air compressor!!! The pistons will go flying, most probably damaging them, and quite possibly injuring you! Use only about 10-20 PSI. Best bet is to start out low pressure, and increase until pistons pop out! Also, use a piece of soft wood to allow the pistons to hit against when they come out, to avoid damaging them. DO NOT GRAB PISTONS WITH PLIERS TO TRY AND PULL THEM OUT!!!!!!!! You'll probably scar/mark up the pistons doing this, which will cause them to tear up the new seals you just put in. Check around YouTube. There might be a video showing how to do a caliper rebuild for your bike, hopefully with the bolt torque values, so you don't over-tighten. Most calipers are made of aluminum, and if you over-tighten the steel bolts into the threaded aluminum holes of the caliper, you'll strip out the threads!

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 948 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 24, 2009

SOURCE: water leak

The small hole under the water pump is the weep hole and is designed to start dripping water when your pump has a problem. You should remove the pump and find out what the problem is before it quits and leaves you stranded. Could be simply the seal, or the shaft may have become pitted.

With the brakes, I assume you have looked at the brake pads and they are good so bleeding is definitely the first option. If that does not fix it remove the calipers and check that the pistons move when you squeeze the lever and that you can easily push them back into the caliper (after you disconnect the brake line). Then rebuild them if required and reinstall.

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joecoolvette

joecoolvette

  • 5660 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 25, 2009

SOURCE: my c109rt only has 480miles and is leaking oil

1.It is Not normal

2.Could have been a bad seal installed.
Could have been a metal burr left on the shaft, when the shaft was machined.
Could have been a Friday, and everyone at the factory was looking for Saturday, and messed up this installation. (lol!)

3.Patience is a virtue. Ride the bike now, run it low, or out of fluid in that drive, and you'll be waiting until you get Big Bucks to fix it, and waiting on next year to ride. Catch my drift?

Stay off of it for three days. IF You have to ride it to the shop, MAKE SURE that final drive unit is FULL! (And pray it doesn't run low, or out, on the way!)
Doomed? Chin up man! It's only a seal. May have been caused by a bad bearing.

Anonymous

  • 1167 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 14, 2009

SOURCE: leaKING OIL SUMP PLUG

buy a tap and die set and re tape the threads on the bolt or if too the threads are really messed up buy a new plug bud also check to see if there is a seal on the plug e.g. o ring/washer

Anonymous

  • 1167 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 17, 2009

SOURCE: the muffler is all leak ing and gap 2 stroke oil leaking out

hi buddy they do leak oil from the exhaust but if there is no power its normally the piston rings gone i will tell you how to check this when i get home from work

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 21, 2009

SOURCE: Fork seal replacement on 82 yamaha 750 seca

On the top and bottom parts of the triple tree either both or one will have bolts. First take the fender off. Take the front tire off. Loosen the bolts on the triple tree. They should slide down. If not you have to get a rubber mallet and tap on the top of the fork and twist the fork as you are doing this. Once it is out, pull the dust seal off the top of the lower fork. There will be a clip inside, take the clip off drain the oil out of the top or bottom depending on how the forks are made. Push the fork tube down into the lower fork slightly, pull both apart with a firm tug and they should separate.

Testimonial: "Very helpful thanks alot"

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  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
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