2004 Kymco Venox 250 Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Mar 25, 2014

Venox250cc preload setting on rear shockers

Which is the best ride

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joe goulet

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  • Contributor 32 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2017
joe goulet
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Joined: Jan 23, 2013
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It depends on your Wt.. I put mine at # 2 and I Wt. 220 lbs.

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Do I need new shocker?

Shocker should not affect ride height. To check shockers, push down at each corner and release. If if overshoots before settling, the shocker is gone.
Ride height is set by suspension springs. Can wear, but if height same at both sides, would not worry.
0helpful
1answer

Just want to raise rear shock

Firstly, the best starting point for a suspension set up is the manufacturers original settings. This allows you to go back to a baseline set up, no matter how much fiddling around you do.

Because everyone is slightly different and of differing weights, then a bike will work best when set up to the individual. The following rough guide for a solo rider has worked on bikes I've owned to give me a good suspension set up for road use.

Initially we'll adjust the preload on the suspension.
The front preload:-
1. Put a cable tie round the front fork stanchion (the shiney bit).
2. Get help from a mate and lift the front of the bike, so there is no weight on the front forks, and slide the cable tie down the fork until it rests on the fork seal. If you've got USD forks, then slide the cable tie upwards to the fork seal.
3. Put the bike back on the ground.
4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike gently and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. Try not to bounce the bike as you do it. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike.
5. When everything is stable, get your mate to slide the cable tie till it again touches the fork seal.
6. Carefully get off the bike.
7. The front of the bike needs lifting again until the weight is off the forks. Now measure the distance between the cable tie and the fork seal. Ideally the gap should be in the region of 30 to 40mm. If the gap is too large then increase the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7, if the gap is too small then reduce the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7.

The rear preload:-
1. With the help of that same good mate, you'll owe him a beer after all this lifting, lift the back of the bike so the weight is off the rear suspension.
2. Measure from the centre of the rear axle to a fixed part of the bike above it. Remember this measurement as R1.
3. Put the bike back down.
4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike.
5. Measure from the centre of the axle to the same point on the bike as before. Remember this measurment as R2.
6. Now the maths. R1 minus R2 should be in the region of 30 to 40mm. If it's greater, then the rear preload needs increasing and repeat steps 4 to 6. If it's less then the rear preload needs reduciing and repeat steps 4 to 6. The R1 figure isn't going to change so there's no need to do 1 and 2 again.

Now we'll go onto the black art of the damping adjustment.
If the bike feels unstable, loose and rather bouncy, then the rebound damping needs increasing. Just try a little at a time until you find the setting best for you. If the bike feels hard and bumpy, then reduce the rebound damping. Again, just adjust a little at a time. Make a note somewhere how much you've adjusted things.
If the bike has a tendency to bottom out under braking, then increase the front compression damping. If it feels too rigid or tends to hop under braking, then reduce the front compression damping. If the back of the bike bottoms out in depressions or feels unstable in fast corners, then increase the rear compression damping. If the back end feels rigid and harsh, then reduce the rear compression damping. Remember to make a note of all the adjustments you've made.

If it all goes wrong, return the bike to standard settings and start again.

hope this helps


John
0helpful
1answer

Bmw touring very hard ride on rear

because bmw think your going to load up the rear they have fitted hard shockers.you could fit koni adjustable shockers then you can adjust them depending upon load.......BUT, you will change the handling of the car,unless you change the settings according to the type of driving you do(my wife is a very gentle driver and does not need such a sporting car),
0helpful
1answer

I weigh 110kg and im 6 foot tall what suspension settings would be ideal for my weight/height? I throw it up a few curvy mountains most wkends and I brought the bike of a woman a rather small woman that...

front preload - 5 lines showing

front rebound damping- stiff

front comp damping- 5 clicks out

rear preload - 15mm from top ring

rear rebound damping - 3 clicks out

rear compression damping - 7 clicks out.

something for you to start with this may or may not suit your riding style ,when readjusting make 1 adjustment at a time and note the changes so you can go back to the starting point above
1helpful
1answer

02 honda vtx 1800 rear shocks ride like cement blocks. no soft ride?

try adjusting the preload on the shocks to a softer setting.
0helpful
1answer

955 st. can i stiffen the rear shock to give greater resistance??

Yes, it can be adjusted. It should have three adjustments on it... preload, rebound dampening and compression dampening. The preload is the overall stiffness of the shock and should be set to your normal riding weight ( If you normally carry 50 pounds of tools when riding then set the shock with that weight included). You adjust that by turning the notchy washer on the bottom of the big spring. Use the spanner wrench that came with your tool kit. The compression setting is on the end of the resevoir and the rebound is on the top of the shock. They are more delicate and should be set to your taste. Im sure your local dealer would help you adjust it to fit you and your style for minimal or no cost if you just showed up and asked.
0helpful
1answer

Ride on 2004 srt10 is too bouncy . Do I need to change shockers?

No just change the shocker springs.They tend to go weak.Good luck
5helpful
6answers

I have a problem with my bajaj pulsar shock absorber, within three months it was found hard

i think it is shock absorber.after 15000 km it is recommended to change the oil of shocker.
1>you may topup your shocker oil then see if their is change or not.
if not
2>then your shocker must be tilted or damaged which can be repaired with a pressure machine or they must be changed....
1helpful
2answers

Honda front strut air pressure

fork psi should'nt exceed 9psi. fork air valves are best used for removing air. spring preload should be adjusted to abtain the correct sag (1'' on most street bikes)
0helpful
1answer

Stuck in high position

On this model vehicle the rear shockers should have air bags to keep car at normal ride height, when load changes.
The air bag can sometimes become caught between inner and outer tubes of shocker when car is raised and lowered quickly.
You will need to jack car up from tow hitch or frame to lower rear axle, this will unfold air bag, slowly lower car, with ignition on, this will make sure air compressor is filling air bags as they take the load.
Hope this is helpful, MMP
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