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Have a line that blows fuel while bike is running i feel that it has come loose but cant tell where. If you are setting on the bike the hose is sticking out the left side between the heads
I think your talking about an Overflow gas tube that keeps your enging from flooding from too much gas, your carb may need a little adjustment so you stop dumping gas.
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Bikes with carburetors usually have a breather hose that releases excess gasoline. It doesn't connect to anything at the lower ende, it's a "dump" route. If it's it doing this a lot, it means the float(s) in your carb(s) are either sticking or set too high. This causes excess gas in the carbs, and the breather tube is getting rid of it. You have to take off the bottom of the carb(s) in order to check the floats. Look in a service manual or online for how to do this for your model.. and don't smoke while you're trying it!
There is no "diagram" showing the whole routing of fuel lines in the bike. You need to use different diagrams in Fuel System section of the service manual. Fuel system section starts at page 15 in service manual, but what you really need starts at page 40. I have posted fuel service manual at the end of comment.
There is one forum where users discussed the routing. One user has colored the diagram from service manual to indicate lines routing. Here the diagram:
"The red and yellow are the fuel lines that go to the petcock. The green
one you left unmarked also goes to the petcock. The line with a question
mark is a vacuum line that connects to a part in front of the battery
along with the larger lines to the cylinders."
It sounds like its time to have the carbuerator cleaned more then likely you have some varnish build up in the idle circuit. I cant remember if that bike has a fuel filter in line from the tank but if it does I would recommend changing that first as it could simply be starving the motor of fuel at idle.
Oh man, now I know why I stayed away from any electronic fuel injected bike. I don't know a lot about the fuel injected bike for this reason. I'm an old school biker and I specialize in 2000 and earlier non-injected bikes. I like carburetors and get along pretty well with them.
As for your problem, this redistribution block must be an integral part of another part. I cannot imagine why it would cost that much unless the Euro has lost it's value against the dollar and I highly doubt that. I'm sorry that I can't tell you more but here's my e-mail address wd4ity at bellsouth.net. Drop me a line and let me do some checking around here and see what I can do. Steve
hi there, have you cleaned the carb lately? i have a honda anf 125, a tad bigger that a 100. anyways, usually a mis-tuned or dirty carb makes the idle of our bike go crazy. If your a do-it-yourselfer, dismantling the carb and cleaning the jets, air ports, and choke lines would be best. Not to mention replacing the fuel filter if you have one in series with the fuel line. If you have cleaned the carb and installed it back to the bike, tuning is next. don't worry if you don't know the right position of the air-fuel screw w/c is next to the idle screw. Turn the air-fuel screw clockwise until it stops. Remember the position of the screw. Turn the idle screw clockwise a few turns until you see the throttle piston moves upward a bit. Then, start the bike. Turn the idle screw until the bike is running without stalling(higher than idle rpm. just like the bike is cruising about 40kph) . Now its time for the tuning. Turn the air-fuel screw counter-clockwise count your turns while listening to the sound of the engine. You will will hear the engine runs smoother and the the rpm starts getting higher also. Stop when you do not hear anymore significant change. Then turn the air-fuel screw clockwise a little about 1/8 turn then stop. Slowly turn the idle screw counter clockwise until you reach 1200 or 1400 rpm (well thats the standard value). Now, try revving the engine, if the engine looses power at the high rpm, turn the air-fuel screw 1/8 clockwise more. Do this step until the pooot-pooting stops. Try the bike and feel the power. If it feels the bike is back in shape. try using the bike for a few weeks. After a week, remove the spark plug and look at the tip. If the tip of your spark plug is kinda grayish or slightly redish(depends on the type of petrol you're using). You're setting is good to go. If the tip color is dark gray to black, the setting is to rich. turn the air-fuel screw counterclockwise about 1/8 turn, then test again. if no color change occurs well the engine should be checked and that's another story.
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