What is a process for doing tight or loose chain

Flip bicycle up-side-down so it sits on the seat and handlebars. Loosen the 2 nuts that hold the rear wheel on. Sitting behind the bike on the ground, so that you can align the wheel to a straight position, pull the wheel back so that the chain is snug. You don't need to pull hard, just hold the wheel in place and straight. Using the other hand, slowly tighten the axle nuts back down until the wheel is held in place. Once the nuts are tight enough to securely hold the wheel, tighten the nuts. Sometimes this method will make the chain too tight. If this happens, repeat the process as above, only this time when you go to tighten the nuts back down, squeeze the chain slightly to create a bit of slack. Ideally, the chain will be tight enough not to skip or slip, and at the same time, loose enough not to make noise, bind up, or do any damage.

There are "chain tensioners" available that hook around the rear dropouts of the frame and also around the axle, allowing you to tighten the chain to exact specs. simply by tightening or loosening adjuster screws. They will also help to keep things from loosening up over time. These make things much easier and I highly suggest looking into them.

Use any of a variety of oils and lubes available, but try to avoid WD-40 for chain lube. It will stop a squeak for now and make things seem to move smoother, but in the long run, WD-40 will attract dirt and debris to the constantly moving parts of your chain and can shorten the life of a chain considerably. Hope this helps.

~Ed

Yes. Loosen the two nuts on the back wheel. When they are loose just pull the wheel back until the chain is tight enough and tighten nuts while holding the tire in the proper position at the proper tightness of the chain. Make sure that the tire is running true when tightened.

The first step is to find the tightest part of the chain. Unless it's a brand new chain it will have a tight spot somewhere on it. It's easiest to do this with the bike on a race stand if you have it. Rotate the wheel and observe the lower part of the chain and watch it lift up when you hit tight spots. The spot where the chain lifts highest is the tightest part of the chain. Once you have found this spot, grab the chain on the low side under the swingarm and move it up and down. It should move up and down around 30-35mm or so, or an inch and a bit if you're an imperialist :) If the chain moves more or less than this then it needs to be adjusted.

To adjust the chain, you need to loosen the axle first. Don't take the nut off but it has to be loose enough to undo by hand. Using 2 spanners, unlock the lock nuts on the end of the swingarm and wind the nut in or out until you get the correct amount of chain slack. always do the sprocket side (left side) first, then repeat the same on the other side. Check the chain adjuster marks to make sure that the adjusters are equal on both sides, this will make sure your rear wheel is aligned properly.

Once you have adjusted the chain, tighten the rear axle and check again. The chain slack will change slightly after you tighten the axle, it might go tighter, it might go looser. Depends on the bike. But the chain slack must be correct with the axle tightened. A bit of practise here and you will be able to guess the correct amount before tightening the rear axle.

Once you have the slack set correctly and the axle is tight, make sure to tighten the adjusters. Tighten the front nut first against the swingarm plate so it can't move. Do it tight but not crazy tight. Then holding the first nut so it can't move tighten the locknut against the first nut. Repeat this on both sides.

If you are not quite sure if the chain is right, always err on the side of making it too loose rather than too tight. Running your chain too tight can destroy your output shaft bearing. It's only about $30 or so for a new one but your engine needs to be completely stripped down to replace it, it's not a fun job. I have seen a lot of FZs and FZRs have this problem because people ran chains too tight. If your chain really is too loose then it will start making your gear changes harder to do, that's the sign you need to tighten it.

On the aduster screw where you tighten blade ... is there an extra nut? I think you need to screw that nut tight so the adjuster screw cannot rotate from vibration.

This may help.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4146814-chainsaw_chain_installation
You can have chains sharpened.
Just because you added oil does not mean it is getting to the bar. Your manual shoul explain how to test.
Chain Adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They do not need these really loose - finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH

Lou

The cam chain it stretched, just like a drive chain. It should not have any tight spots, or loose spots. Replace the cam chain and look into aftermarket cam chain adjusters like APE. Chaz Moto DC

Tighting the bolt very tight is OK but over doing it can collaspe the spacers. It's more likly that if loosing the bolt corrects the problem it's been put to gether wrong. Look at the bike bandit .com for your bikes rear wheel and see if yours has all the right parts in the right order. Maybe the rear brakes are worn out or something in the brake came loose. The chain and sprocket can make alot of niose. Axel not the same on both sides. chain dry or too loose or too tight. Chain gaurd touching chain or the tire. With the wheel jacked up turn it and work the brake to see if the noise changes. The wheel should turn very easy cheak breakes and chain for probelems wheel bears do fail but mileage needs to be high or wet.

View the first 1:15 of this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Install the new chain like this:

Chain Adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH

Lou
Yours is electric there are probably a few differences but the process is very similar.

Wearing gloves is recommended. Loosen the bar slide it againt the clutch. Place the new chain over the clutch like pictured below. Place the drive links in the groove and work tour way right until the chain is over the bar nose. Grasp the nose and pull it right, the chain should rise toward the bar bottom. If necessary guide the drive into the bar groove. Find the chain tensioner and adjust it to fit the bar. Proceed as below.
Chain adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system.

check the cog that the chain runs on, the one on the back of the centrifugal clutch they are supposed to be changed when you change the bar ((i dont bother until iget symptoms like yours or the chain starts to get tight and loose tight and loose)