1990 Nissan 300ZX Logo
Posted on Jun 12, 2009

High idel engine warmed up idleing at 2500 rpm auto trans ac off in park allready adjusted the idle air validation screw completly closed still ran at 2000 rpm checked for vacume leaks sprayed intake area with carb cleaner no change in rpm

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redincali

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  • Contributor 13 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 27, 2009
redincali
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Joined: Jun 27, 2009
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You may have a bad control valve or regulator. Did you adjust the idle properly?

1. Disconnect the connector on top
2. Adjust idle to around 650-700k rpm
3. Reconnect the electrical connection

After reconnecting, the idle should jump up around 700-750k rpm.
The idle screw is fail safe setting in case the ecu cannot set the idle. The rpm's set by the idle screw are supposed to be below the ecu/stock idle.

If this doesn't work, you may have a dirty or bad Idle Air Adjuster and/or Air Regulator. For information on cleaning that, you can refer to this page http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/157335.html

You can test the IAA by supplying power to the plug with the car off. Listen for any clicks or humming. That will signify that it still may be working but is possibly stuck. The Air Regulator is for high idle for warming up your car. It has a bi-metal spring inside that rotates a disc closing off an airway to bring idle to normal after a couple minutes. If it dies it will stay open and give you permanent high idle. If it gets clogged usually no high idle for warm up.
You can remove it and peer through the end. If you see a thin sliver of light, it's open. Connect 12 volts + & -, wait a few minutes and see if it's now closed. If not, it's likely dead. It can be opened and cleaned if that's the issue.

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It can be issue with IAC( idle air control valve) causing the problem.


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I suggest you refer the link below and follow its troubleshooting details:------

Click the link below:-----

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/12/ford-expedition-iac-valve-replacing.html

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/bad-miss-at-idle.html

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http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/03/stumbling-and-stalling-at-idle-after.html

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------------------

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http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/erratic-idle-on-car.html

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Does not idel well some time engin light comes on missies for 2 secomds

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There are many other possibilities causing these idle issues. Engine idles rough.

There are few help links with solutions to troubleshoot such idle issues.

I suggest you refer the link below and follow its troubleshooting details:------

Click the link below:-----

Ford Expedition IAC valve replacing

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/12/ford-expedition-iac-valve-replacing.html

Bad miss at idle?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/bad-miss-at-idle.html

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http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/03/stumbling-and-stalling-at-idle-after.html

------------

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/01/1999-ford-f-150-idles-rough-and-quits.html

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http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/10/cold-start-problem-and-vehicle-shudder.html

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http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-overheats-and-air-blows-hot-at-idle.html

---------

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http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/10/high-idle-problem.html

-------

While stop engine idles like cylinder missing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2012/01/while-stop-engine-idles-like-cylinder.html

---------

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/idle-flair-is-noticed-on-car-rough-idle.html

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/high-rpm-in-neutral-inconsistant-high.html

-------

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http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/03/vehicle-stumbling-at-idle-and-shows.html

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The car idel is too high

Adjust the idle revs when the car is in either neutral or park. (2000 rpm is too fast for idle speed).If it is a late model car and therefore has a computer system then what ever you do DON'T TOUCH THE IDLE SCREW. You'll throw everthing out of whack. It needs to be done via a computer. Hope this helps
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Carburetor idle mixture adjustment for lean burn chrysler engines

On a carbureted engine(the days of old) I had a method of my own
which always seemed to do really well.
Warm up the engine to operating temperature and make sure there is no
operation of the automatic choke.This should mean that the choke flap in the top of carb is standing vertically offering no resistance to airflow.
Hook up a tachometer if the car has'nt got one.
Note the idle speed in PARK.
Turn the fuel/air adjusting screw underneath carb's right or left sideI(NOT the idle speed set screw) IN and note the rpm as you do.If it raises a little,you are getting close.
Go ahead and turn that screw in all the way and lightly seat it(count the turns in from the highest idle reading),then back it out to the highest reading.NOW turn it in slowly until you see the RPM drop slightly.
Now back it out a little so you are at peak RPM again.
REPEAT this with the other side's fuel/air screw.
After you have gained this higher RPM (maybe), then set the idle speed control screw to desired RPM, and be sure to get in the car and while holding the brake,put the car in DRIVE to make sure the idle doesn't drop too low. don-ohio (:^)
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Need to adjust my idle how do i do that

air idle control valve, I dont belive you have a ideler set screw..I do belive the problem is what I have Listed..........Best of luck


How can I tell if I need a new air idle control valve?
If your car has a rough idle or the idle cycles up and down, then chances are that you have a bad idle control valve. On modern vehicles, the purpose of the idle air control valve is to regulate your idle, and keep the idle smooth. The idle valve is controlled by the ECU or the computer, and when in gear the idle should be between 800 and 1000 rpm, and not in gear, between 700 and 900 rpm
1helpful
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I have a 1992 E350 motorhome with a 7.5 in it. I just had to replace the fuel pump. After replacing the pump it idles rough and runs rich. I did pick up an engine light and after getting the codes...

There is a few options but first I am hoping with your fuel pump replacement that you replaced the fuel filter if not do it first.
next have you checked you throttle body idle speed control device... See below on diagnostics
The curb and fast idle speeds are controlled by the Engine Control Assembly (ECA) and the Idle Speed Control Bypass Air Valve (ISC-BPA) . The ISC-BPA valve is not adjustable. A large increase or decrease in closed plate airflow from the calibrated level will not allow this device to control the speed.
The idle speed setting procedure has been revised considerably to reflect the expanded application of the Self-Test idle speed options and because the throttle body incorporates an orifice in the throttle plate to control idle airflow as part of the sludge tolerant design.
dak408_14.gif

Throttle bodies with sludge tolerant design are clearly identified with a Yellow/Black decal. This decal warns that the throttle plate stop screw must not be adjusted counterclockwise (backed off), as this will not reduce the engine speed but may cause the throttle plate to stick in the bore. Backing out the screw may be required if the throttle body has been previously serviced (a plug in the throttle plate orifice may be present) or the plate stop screw tampered with (TPS Self-Test output out of range). The decal also warns that the throttle body must NOT be cleaned inside the bore, as this cleaning will impair the sensitive coating. The sludge accumulation will not affect the idle air flow. The cleaning procedure for the ISC-BPA still applies.

REMEMBER
A change in idle airflow can occur not only at the throttle body but other areas as well. You should enter the idle speed procedure only after other possible causes in the following areas are eliminated.
  • Contamination within the idle speed control device
  • Lack of fuel system control (excessively rich or lean)
  • Throttle sticking or binding
  • Engine not reaching operating temperature
  • Incorrect ignition timing
  • Incorrect or clogged PCV system
  • Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, vacuum reservoirs, power brake booster etc.
VERIFY

  • Transmission is in PARK (A/T), or NEUTRAL (M/T)
  • Parking brake is applied (automatic brake disconnected where applicable)
  • Wheels blocked
  • Engine at operating temperature
  • Proper fuel pressure and no exhaust smoke
  • Correct and clean PCV system
  • Heater, A/C, and other accessories OFF
  • Ignition timing is set to specification
  • EEC-IV diagnostics have been performed and vehicle malfunction indicated service output codes have been resolved.
STEP 1
With the engine OFF, connect a tachometer, according to manufacturer's instructions. Disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery for 5 minutes, then reconnect it.
STEP 2
START the engine and let stabilize for two minutes. Goose the accelerator and let the engine return to idle. Lightly depress and release the accelerator, then let the engine idle.
STEP 3
If the engine is not idling properly, turn the engine OFF, and proceed with this procedure.
STEP 4
Disconnect Idle Speed Control Air Bypass Solenoid.
STEP 5
START and RUN the engine at 2500 rpm for 30 seconds.
STEP 6
Place the transmission in PARK (A/T), or NEUTRAL (M/T).
STEP 7
Using a tachometer, verify the idle speed is at 650 +/-150 rpm.
dak408_15.gif


NOTE: A plug in the throttle body orifice will decrease idle rpm. Where as an orifice without a plug will increase idle rpm. Orifice plugs and installation tools are available in service kit # FOPZ-9F652-A.

RPM TOO LOW
  1. DO NOT clean the throttle body, check the plate orifice plug.
    • If there is no plug, turn the screw clockwise to the desired rpm.
    • If there is a plug from previous service, remove the plug, then adjust the screw in either direction as required. Screw must be in contact with the lever pad after adjustment.
RPM TOO HIGH
  1. Turn the engine OFF.
  2. Disconnect air cleaner hose.
  3. Temporarily block the orifice in the throttle plate with tape. If the orifice already has a plug from previous service proceed to Step (e).
  4. RESTART the engine. Check the idle speed, using a tachometer. NOTE: On vehicles with Mass Air Flow Sensors, reconnect the air intake duct hose prior to rechecking the rpm. If the engine stalls, crack open the throttle plate stop screw, but DO NOT over adjust.
  5. If rpm continues to be fast, perform KOEO Self-Test.
    • If TPS output code is within range, remove tape from throttle body and check for other possible causes.
    • If TPS output is out of range, adjust screw for proper TPS code. Lever must be in contact with the screw.
    • If rpm is still fast, terminate the procedure and check for other possible causes.
  1. If rpm drops to 650 rpm or lower, or the engine stalls, turn the engine OFF, disconnect the air cleaner hose, and remove the tape from throttle plate.
  2. Install an orifice plug with proper color code according to the throttle plate orifice size.
  3. Reconnect the air cleaner hose. START the engine, and check the idle rpm using a tachometer. Turn the throttle plate stop screw clockwise until an idle speed of 650 +/- 25 rpm is achieved. NOTE: DO NOT turn the plate stop screw counterclockwise. This may cause the throttle plate to stick at idle.
STEP 8
Run the KOEO Self-Test for proper TPS code output.
STEP 9
Reconnect the Idle Speed Control Air Bypass Solenoid. Verify the throttle is not sticking in the bore, and the linkage is not preventing throttle from closing.
STEP 10
START the engine and idle for two minutes. Goose the accelerator and let the engine return to idle. Lightly depress and release the accelerator, then let engine idle.

PROCEDURES FOR PLUG INSTALLATION

STEP 1
Remove air inlet tube(s) from throttle body.
dak408_16.gif STEP 2
Select the proper color plug by using the Go/No-Go gauge pegs, included in the service kit (FOPZ-9F652-A).
STEP 3
Starting with the largest diameter gauge peg, attempt to insert through the throttle plate orifice.
STEP 4
If the gauge peg goes through the orifice, use the corresponding color plug.
If the gauge peg does not go through, proceed with the next smaller gauge peg for Go/No-Go Test.
NOTE: It is important that the largest Go/No-Go combination is used to determine the proper plug size.
STEP 5
If the smallest gauge peg does not go through the orifice, use the reamer bit and handle included with the service kit to enlarge the plate orifice. Wipe bearing grease on both sides of the plate orifice and on the reamer bit to hold the brass chips. After reaming, wipe plate clean and then return to Step 3 to determine the proper plug size.
STEP 6
Using the installation tool from the service kit, push the plug into the orifice until bottoming out at the throttle plate.
STEP 7
Open and snap closed the throttle several times to verify proper plug retention.
STEP 8
Reconnect the air inlet tube(s).
STEP 9
Reset idle rpm per engine requirement using the throttle plate stop screw.


Hope this helps
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