Hi all, advice needed please, mito 125, spluttering over 7000rpm, also having trouble starting had to adjust throtle cable so it starting to idle at 3500rpm just to get me home.....any help please

SOURCE: Starting problem

You probably need to add water to the battery or the battery is getting weak and needs to be replaced. Water should cover the top of the battery plates. Get a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger and charge the battery for a few hours.
The problem may now go away.

If it continues then put a volt ohm meter on the battery and see what voltage is present when revving the engine. The voltage should be about 2 volts higher than the listed battery voltage, as in 6v now 8v / 12v now 14v.
If not, have the dealer check the stator and rectifier/regulator.

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SOURCE: hi mt pit bike is spluttering under acceleration i

Your bike may be jetted too lean. A common problem in these days of overzealous EPA regulations. You can tell if when you've cranked your throttle wide open and it splutters, if you back off on the throttle about 1/8 to 1/4 turn, it clears up. This is indicating that it is jetted too lean. When you close the throttle slightly, the fuel is being metered by the main jet and by backing off on the throttle a bit, you're cutting back on the air, thereby bringing the mixture closer to what the engine needs. Try rejetting the carb, Go up one or two sizes on the main jet, one step at the time.

Now, it could be too rich as well. If it splutters and blows black smoke out the exhaust, it either jetted too rich or the float level in the carb is set wrong.

Take care of the simple stuff first before rejetting the carb. Make sure your spark plugs are the correct ones and they are not fouled from overusage of the choke or enricher. If you allow the bike to "warm up" with the enricher on, plug fouling is common with this practice. I get the bike started and as soon as it will run without the enricher or choke on, I turn it off and keep the bike running with the throttle. Don't foul as many plugs that way.

SOURCE: My 2004 Suzuki drz 125 will start, but when left

have you ever had the carb cleaned if not you may have a patially clogged idle jet remove floatbowl with a small screwdriver remove the smaller of the 2 jets the large one is the main jet remove and clean when held up to a light you should be able to see through it if not it needs to be cleaned a very small piece of wire works well but make sure its not to big or you will ruin the jet they are made of brass and are softer than most metals

SOURCE: my cagiva mito 125 it revs up 2 7rpm then starts 2

clean carb , clean sparkplug and some fresh fuel might help

SOURCE: I am changing the handlebars to 16

To change the throttle/idle cables, first you need to remove the fuel tanks so you can get to the carb/throttle body. Loosen the adjusters at the throttle grip on the handlebars. Remove the idle cable first and the remove the throttle cable from the carb/throttle body. Then take the two bolts out of the throttle grip housing halves and carefully seperate them. Remove the old cables from the twist grip. Reinstall new cables in the reverse procedure. Before starting the bike, make absolutely sure that the throttle cables work like they're supposed to and the carb/throttle body will close completely.

To remove the clutch cable, remove exhaust system or whatever might be in the way on the right side of the bike. You need to remove the right side transmission cover. Drain the transmission oil. Remove the chrome right side transmission cover. Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch release mechanism. Screw the end of the clutch cable out of the cover and take the cable loose from the clutch lever on the handlebars. Reinstall in reverse order making sure you install a new O-ring on the cable at the transmission cover. Replace cover and refill transmission with oil. Reinstall anything else you had to take off.