Strech it is a dash mounted I have five gallon fat bobs key switch in middle

First off, without the jumper wire, the ACC position will not function, but I've never used this position anyways.
It is so you can run your tail light without the ignition or headlight, in case you're broke down by the side of the road.

You keep telling me the BLACK wire goes to the battery, but you STILL haven't told me if it goes to the battery POSITIVE (+) or NEGATIVE (-) terminal.
BUT, usually the battery grounds (-) to the frame, rather than up near the switch, so I am going to ASSUME it is the POSITIVE wire to the battery.

That said, look here:

http://i43.tinypic.com/dy6tdg.jpg

Your BLACK wire will go to the terminal marked HOT

Your RED wire will go to terminal marked IGN ONLY & BRAKE LITE.

Your BLUE wire will go to terminal marked IGN & ALL LITES

If you dont want to run the jumper wire (remember, without it, the ACC position won't work), then just ignore the JUMPER FOR ACCESSORIES.
Again, the ACCESSORIES NO IGN won't function, but this is a position that most people will never use anyways.

This SHOULD give you both IGN and IGN & LITES.

If, by chance, this works backwards, then swap the RED and BLUE wires.

Again, beings as it appears your bike has been rewired in the past with non-standard color codes, I am only able to go with the information you have supplied.

The older Knuckleheads (and flatheads) and early Pans had 5 terminals, but later ones (like yours) had 6 terminals.

You keep saying the BLACK one goes back to the battery, but you haven't told me (I have only been ASSUMING) if it goes to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery, NOT the negative, correct?

IF the BLACK wire is in fact coming from the battery's POSITIVE side, hook it up to the 4 o'clock position - the jumper wire going from this terminal to the one at 1 o'clock IS NEEDED TO FUNCTION PROPERLY!

You stated, "the red is on the one 10:00 and that is going to the circuit breaker underneath the dash the blue is on the one about 1:00 that also is going to the circuit breaker"

Does this mean BOTH the RED and BLUE wires are going to the SAME circuit breaker?
If so, do they BOTH connect at the same circuit breaker terminal stud, or one to one stud (at one end of the circuit breaker), and the other to the other stud (at other end of circuit breaker)?

The red one should be a power wire that is connected to the battery and provides power to the accessories --run and start positions. The blue one probably goes down to the starter solenoid to activate the solenoid to spin the starter . Black in an auto system normally indicates an earth wire so if it is connected to the battery it should be on the negative terminal. The old ignition switch never had a lights section as the battery light and dash lights got power from the red wire when the switch is in the run position only.

Sounds like a bad brake light switch. It can be found under the drives side of the dash up near the brake pedal lever. There should be power on the red wire all the time with the key on. There should be power on the blue wire when the pedal is depressed. If there is no power on the red wire check he stop lamp fuse.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Here is what I have from my diagram - -
the wire from the fuel gauge on the dash to the sending unit in the tank is purple. Not the pump.
The wire from the pump to the pump relay is gray.
The wire from the relay to the 10amp fuse is purple.
The wire from the relay to the computer is orange.
The wire from the relay used to power the pump to prime it is red.
And the ground wire for the relay is black-white.

possibly your blower motor reistat located in the hvac box and typically has four or five wires going to it. It is just a hard plastic like plate with wires in the middle and two screws holding it on. Check under the hood on the passengerside first.

Your switch is bad. Run an impedance test on the switch with your volt meter...If you don't have a volt meter, take it to a shop.

Truck Brake control

Red/Black stripe Black

Blue Blue

Lt. Blue/white stripe Red

White White

Orange Not used

It sounds like a change over valve is faulty. U have 2 check over valves 1 on each side of rear wheel wells. Also a change over valve that switches 1 tank to other. I recomend replacing all 3 valves for peace of mind,because when 1 goes the others follow. Hope this is helpful!

first go to the fuel pumps electrical connections, switch the dash to the front tank and measure power, then to the rear tank, do you have power at both fuel pumps? if so the rear tank pump is bad

check the vent and return line pipes for a clog, it sounds like all return fuel is going to one tank.