1985 Honda VF 1100 C clutch lever has no pressure

There are 2 holes at the bottom of the master cylinder, one is really small, clean them with hard thin wire while squeeze the clutch lever.
It is O.K., if you get a bubble when you released the lever.

Maybe the clutch master cylinder is not building hydraulic pressure? The internal seals in it may not be holding. Watch the slave cylinder push the clutch lever while someone presses the clutch pedal. If travel is not enough and was bled properly, you may need a new master cylinder.

If you've already bled the hydraulic clutch system, and you're still experiencing difficulty pulling the lever with no apparent kinks or obstructions in the lines, there are a few other potential issues to consider:

1. Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder Issues: Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for any signs of leaks or damage. If either of these components is faulty, it can lead to a loss of hydraulic pressure. Replace or rebuild the faulty cylinder if needed.
2. Clutch Fluid Contamination: Ensure that the clutch fluid is clean and free from contaminants. Contaminated fluid can affect the performance of the hydraulic system. If the fluid is discolored or contains debris, consider flushing the entire system and refilling it with fresh clutch fluid.
3. Air in the System: Despite bleeding, there might still be air trapped in the system. Ensure that you've thoroughly bled the system, starting from the master cylinder and working your way down to the slave cylinder. Sometimes, it may take multiple bleeding sessions to completely remove all air bubbles.
4. Clutch Cable Adjustment (if applicable): If your motorcycle has a hydraulic clutch, cable adjustment may not be applicable. However, if it uses a cable-operated clutch, check for proper cable tension and adjust it according to the manufacturer's specifications.
5. Clutch Components Wear: Check the clutch components such as the clutch plates and springs for wear. Worn-out components may result in poor clutch engagement. If necessary, replace the clutch components.

If the issue persists after checking these aspects, it might be worthwhile to consult with a professional motorcycle mechanic. They can conduct a thorough inspection and diagnose the problem accurately. It's important to address clutch issues promptly to ensure safe and reliable operation of your motorcycle.

If you've bled them and no more air is coming out. And your clutch plates are all good and set correctly.
It could be debris in the slave cylinder, but you have replaced it so maybe not. Could be that you are using the wrong fluid.
Might actually be your master cylinder, there shouldn't be a lot of pressure at the handle. It isn't like your front brakes. Which when pulled on at rest go hard. Your clutch lever will and should, go all the way in, with some resistance.
If it doesn't then, your master cylinder or clutch plate springs might be defective.
Another thing to consider is your lines, if they are the old rubber type, it is possible that they have collapsed internally and you might need new ones.
A good way to check is to grab a hold of the line and squeeze your clutch lever, if you feel the line bulge, or pump outward. They are defective and need to be replaced.
Because all that pressure is dissipating due to the expansion of the rubber.

It takes a lot of bleeding, keep bleeding it off, make sure your hose clamps or nuts are tight, sometimes there's an o-ring where the hose is, check to see if yours has one, but you have to bleed the system thoroughly

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Have you just replaced the clutch? Taken out the transaxle, and put it back in? Are you sure transmission was in good condition before this? If so, review your procedure carefully to be sure you got it all back right.
Watch the slave cylinder while someone depresses clutch. You should see the little plunger move slightly out and move the clutch lever back. The lever moves the release bearing inside bell housing into contact with the pressure plate. If slave cylinder doesn't move at all, try bleeding again. The plunger has to move when clutch is engaged.
I'm not sure what you mean by "will shift but won't go into gear". You mean it's actually going into a gear position and car won't move? Or it won't go into any gear, period. As if you had no clutch?

It operates exactly like an automotive system. DOT 3/4 brake fluid is put into the reservoir on the handle bar left side master cylinder assembly and bled out at the slave cylinder on the round clutch cover on the backside of the motor in front of the rear wheel. Both the master cylinder rebuild kit and the rear slave cylinder kit are available from a Honda if needed. Some times a simple bleeding will fix the problem. If you can not build pressure in the master cylinder , try loosening the banjo bolt and pump the clutch lever until you get fluid pressure causes leaking past the copper washers. Then tighten the banjo bolt on the master cylinder and bleed the slave cylinder. On some Goldwing's the clutch cover can be removed and the clutch plates can be replaced with the engine still in the frame. Unfortunately. the spring towers can easily be broken if you are not extremely careful.

Loosen the slave cylinder from the motor, then bleed it. Then put it back on. The slave cylinder will be a little stiff to reinstall after bleeding, but the clutch should work better when your done.

Please visit this site and you will get the general idea on the clutch slave cylinders.
http://www.fjparts.com/clutch_slave_cylinder_diagram.htm

This site for parts:-http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/honda-motorcycle-vf700c-magna-1985/o/m2752

Hope this helps!

Check to make sure the slave and master cylinders are working. You can probably bleed it if the slave cylinder started leaking. Could possibly be internal on the clutch master.