Overhead cam heads do not usually have cam bearings. If your cam has seized, it properly damaged the cam journals. Your heads might have removable cam journals, but not likely.
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You need to take off the timing belt (or chain) cover and see why the one camshaft is not turning. Maybe the belt for that cam broke or the cam has seized from a bad cam bearing. One camshaft should be for the intake valves, the other cam is for the exhaust valves.
Remove the rocker cover to ascertain the damage done . It may not be bearings but seized valve in the head. To fix cam bearings properly it may necessitate the head removal and machining both the head surface and then the bearings should be line bored to realign the cam shaft correctly. Some Nissan products have the cam bearing housings adjustable with shims to align the holes correctly and if not done will break the cam shaft. IT may be the cam shaft is broken and jammed . What ever it will not be just a case of putting in new bearings until you have the head and bearing alignment checked out by an engineering shop.
I have had a few suzuki's and they are great little engines provided they get serviced on a regular basis, as they are a bit sensitive on the cylinder heads as the cam bearings are a fixed part of the head.This is a bit of a problem when you get metal wear that gets into the oil and gets in between the cam and cam bearings which are only Aluminium, thus the iron filings in the oil will scour the aluminium cam bearings being softer than steel or metal so to speak. So the good thing to do is make sure that the oil is always clean and free from metal wear deposits, and the only way to prevent this is to do an oil change at least every 10,000 miles or 20,000 kilometres, although every 5,000 miles or 10,000 kilometres is best, failing which you will get a tapping sound in the engine head which means that the bearings have been scoured or maybe if you're lucky it might just only be the incorrect valve clearance settings.Other than that I have never known them to give other engine problems out of proper maintained use.They are extremely reliable. I suggest you remove the tappert cover and remove the cam shafts to check whether the camshaft bearings are not scoured. Best of luck.
it could possibly be worn valves or valve springs. sometimes worn cam bearings can cause this issue. try using 10w 30 motor oil on your next oil change to see if it helps. sometimes the oil you use can cause ticking because it is not thick enough to lubricate the engine properly. if 10w 30 doesn help the noise, it is possible this problem may be linked to worn parts inside the cylinder head. removing the valve cover will give you a better idea of what could be the source of the ticking.
The following steps are necessary if your car has A/C and if you are removing the passenger side valve cover, if you do not need to remove the passenger side valve cover, skip them.
Remove the A/C compressor belt and the compressor from the mounting bracket located on the passenger side of the engine. Do not remove the lines from the compressor.
Place the compressor with the lines attached on the passenger side front shock tower and secure.
Remove the compressor bracket.
Remove the air cleaner-to-throttle body hose.
Label and remove all necessary electrical and vacuum connections.
Remove the attaching bolts for the valve cover(s).
Remove the valve cover(s) from the cylinder head(s). If necessary, lightly tap the valve cover with a soft hammer to aid in removal.
To install:
Thoroughly clean the valve cover(s) and cylinder head gasket mating surfaces.
Install the valve cover(s) on the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
Tighten the valve cover bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
Install all necessary electrical and vacuum connections.
Install the air cleaner assembly.
Install the A/C bracket (if removed).
Install the A/C compressor and belt (if removed).
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
2.3L and 2.4L 5-Cylinder, and 2.9L 6-Cylinder Engines
The 2.3L and 2.4L 5-cylinder, and 2.9L 6-cylinder engines have a two-piece cylinder head, the upper half and the lower half. The upper half is basically the same as a valve cover, except that it incorporates the bearing caps for the camshafts into the underside.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the spark plug access cover.
Label and remove the ignition coils and vent hoses or the distributor cap and wires if equipped.
Check the cam alignment before removing the cylinder head.
Remove the bolts attaching the upper cylinder head.
Remove the upper cylinder head, lightly tap with a soft hammer if necessary.
To install:
Thoroughly clean the upper and lower cylinder head gasket mating surfaces.
Apply liquid sealing compound to the upper cylinder head mating surface.
WARNING Use a roller or your finger to spread sealant, do not use an excessive amount of sealant, or the oil passages could become clogged.
Place the upper cylinder head onto the lower cylinder head.
Check the cam alignment before tightening the cylinder head.
Install Volvo tool number 5454 or equivalent to the upper cylinder head.
Tighten the nut on the tools to seat the upper cylinder head.
Tighten the upper cylinder head bolts, beginning from the center out to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
Install the ignition coils and hoses or the distributor cap and wires.
Install the spark plug access cover.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the vehicle and check for leaks.
Fig. 2: Remove the clamp and detach the vent hose
Fig. 3: Remove the spark plug cover and the plug wires or ignition coils to access the retaining bolts
Fig. 4: Remove the retaining bolts
Fig. 5: A light tap with a soft-faced hammer is usually required to loosen the valve cover
Fig. 6: Carefully lift the upper cylinder head up and off the lower section. Note the integral camshaft bearing caps in the casting
Daewoo has interference engines in them, so if the timing belt broke while the engine was running, you will need to replace half of the valves which were bent when the pistons crashed into them when the cams stopped turning and the crank shaft continued to turn. Minimum of $700-1000.00 (usually more). If you do it all yourself and the valve guides are not damaged, still at least $400.00 worth of parts to fix. Pull plastic air dams around bottom of engine on front and right side . Support engine with jack. Drain antifreeze from engine and radiator. remove air filter housing and serpentine belt. remove front engine mount. remove cam belt cover. remove broken cam belt and check cam tensioner bearings and idler bearing as well. They are usually bad. Then remove spark plug cover. Remove valve cover. Remove intake from head. remove coil from head. remove heat shield from exhaust manifold then remove manifold from exhaust and from head. remove water hoses and connecting assemblies from side of head and rear of head. remove Cam shaft bearing caps loosening them all evenly so as not to bend cams. remove cams. remove head bolts. remove head. remove valve hydraulic lifters, compress valve springs and remove valve retainers and dissassemble valves. Clean everything very well. Make sure head is not damaged. Remove valve guide seals. install new valve guide seals, new valves. Seat valves with valve grinding compound. clean well. instal valves in reverse order of dissasembly. Before putting head on, make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center position. install head using proper torque of 18 ft # in a spiral application rotation from the center outward in a clockwise direction. Then do spiral rotation again tightening bolts each one-quarter turn. Repeat the tightening process two more times only turning the bolts one-quarter turn each time. Use new head bolts. They are designed to stretch in the process of installation and are not to be re-used. Align cams to proper orientation then bolt into place. do not overtorque cam bearing cap bolts. Less than 5 ft # of torque can stretch these bolts. Snug them then tighten them 90 degrees. Then tighten them another 90 degrees (quarter turn). Snug them all then go back and tighten all of them a quater turn, then go back and tighten all of them another quarter turn. Install the cam idler and tensioner and install the cam belt. then install the intake, exhaust and all other items in reverse order of assembly. Do not turn engine over unless you are sure you have the cam belt on with the crank shaft pulley aligned at top dead center and the intake and exhauste pulley marks aligned to their proper marks with the cam belt properly tensioned. You can't be even one tooth off. This must be right before you turn the engine over! Remove spark plugs and turn engine over by hand two rotation clockwise using a wrench on the center bolt of the crank shaft pulley. Check that the timing of cams is still perfect. If not, correct, retension cam belt, double check timing positions again then rotate engine two revolutions. Check cam timing positions again. The timing should not change! The engine should turn over relatively easily. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn, don't force it. You may have the timing off and be pressing a piston against a valve. If you are at this point, then you need to remove cam belt and unbolt cam shafts to release all tension on any of the valves. return the number one cylinder to top dead center position and then reinstall the cams and cam belt. Once it is assembled and in time, then reattatch the rest of the components that were removed in dissassembly. Do this in reverse order of dissassembly. then connect battery and fill radiator fluid. Start car.
white paint the gearwheels before you take the old one off??-------remove no 1 plug and use a long thin screwdriver to locate TDC no1 ,you may not be able to engine right round because of valves ,then remove rocker cover and look at valves on no 1 ,they should be fully closed then bring piston to tdc no1 ,there it is simple .then look for the timing marks ,which could be on the end of the cams ,a groove that has to level with the head ,or a lug on one the cam bearings
you have a ROD knock,,,,the oil level can be good and compression can be good,but the bearing on the rod to crank is shot and now has too much play and is causing excessive play and noise,soon the rod will come out the block and seize the engine,,if its knocking that loud then its too late to fix it,,your gonna have to replace the engine really soon,,,sorry but its normal of the dohc engine to do this usually between 90 to 130k miles they let loose but the single cam dont have this issue
One psooibility to this is that there was insufficient oil going to the cam bearings and the camshaft seized. The oil galleries in the head could be plugged therefore not supplying oil to the cam bearings.
There is a posibility that the valves are not bent but you would have to check them carefully. that could be checked out when thw head is machined because if the cam seized you'll have to take the head off and have it serviced.( cam bearing seats machined and oil galleries cleared. Hope this helps you out
I've done one of these before. Most likely you'll have to remove the head and replace some valves. There was a piston to valve collision. By the time you spend the money fixing the engine you could have bought a good used replacement engine. Parts are going to be the pain in the rear. The valves, for example, are coming from the Phillippines. You're better off finding a good used engine.
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