XR 100 didnt move for a year.My bad so i cleaned the carb,jets,floats,needle slide. Motor cycle starts on the 1st kick with choke on full idles fine.When you touch the throtle or click the choke to middle position bike bogs down and dies.What is left?

no year told, nor when it last run perfect not told
same answer for 100 years on any otto cycle gas engine made car or motorcycle or scooter.
same., and drives fast too, full power work but idle fails.

well , idle is too rich, as are all carbs this old and never serviced.
when it stalls i bet spark tip is wet with fuel or carbon fouled.

or bad fuel. or caused by bad fuel endless for 100years
ive cleaned like 1000s of carbs in 50+ years. endless. me.
it's only a 150cc engine, and tiny carb. my CB750s old and new.
both had 4 carbs and are tricky and must be synchronized
but your's is a pussyycatt. 1 carb small
causes all.
the float needle is bad causing too high float level.
the jets are bad or wrong or dirty. there may be 2 jets one is idle and bad. but most time not 2, just 1 jet and 1 needle.
the needle can be bad , most are this old and bottom of needle is idle section OF NEEDLE and all worn out and now super rich at idLE SPEED
the air paths inside the body of carb must not be clogged
all tiny air paths. checked and cleaned fully.
that is all I can think off off hand.
my guess is bike is super old.
is bike real honda or this trashy china clones of 80 honda.
no year told nor photo of it so we can ahhhh that BIKE,
THE TANK VIEW IS OMG EASY TO ID.

NOT TOLD , FAILS IDLE HOT AND COLD ENGINE BOTH.
Using throttle grip hold RPM up a tad to get it hot first and see if idle reall fails hot.
first 150cc bike owned ever,?yes
the learn this.
we start with mild choke cold and back it off bit by bit until warm.
the chock has a fast idle features that must not be broken.
back it off slowly for 5 mins. then idle works
some have idle mixture screw on the side or is fast cold idle screw.
the cables are not for idle. ever and are set loose side
a stop screw idle and maybe mixtures idle. tool
depends on year not told if honda mikuni made.

You need to adjust the idle 1st.Main jet #58 is just for wide open throttle. Start by turning air screw all the way in "gently" till it stops, and back it out 1 and a half turns. Back out idle screw until slide is closed " not touching slide" . Turn until just contacts slide plus 1 full turn in opening slide. Start it up with the choke on and turn the air screw slowly in or out and slowly move the choke off till you can get it to run with the choke off. Than adjust idle screw " the one that moves the slide up and down to set the RPM. If you cant get her to idle with the choke off and the carb is air tight on the intake manifold. Carb might be to big. If you can get her to idle but it runs ruff I will try to help you tune the carb further. Good luck.

first things first, what kinda bike are we working on? you say 2000 250r i'm getting its a twin cylinder from your left piston remark...... my crystal ball is telling me it's a ex 250 ninja. Am i close? Ok moving i'm going off of just my ability to tuning blind. First the carb is more then a float and a blow to hold gas, its the step in proper tuning, It effects every part from idle to red line. there is alot happen in that little magic box. we will hit the basics. when you first remove the carb and your holding it in your hand, looking down the throat you dont see much, a slide, a needle, and some small wholes. the C.V. carb raises the slide with vacuum presser, the more you open the butterfly ( the round disk looking thing in the throat ) the more air the motor pulls in causing a vacuum lifting the slide pulling the needle out of the hole. Now remove the cap on the top of the carb, you'll find a spring, and the needle slide remove this. flip the carb over remove the float bowl, laying in front of you will see a float, ( the plastic part, older carb had metal floats) you'll need to remove this there is a pin you may need to tap on it with a pick BE-CAREFUL the posts will break easily, next the float needle will be next if it is not hooked to the float. the float needle sits in a seat, the float needle and seat make the valve that lets the gas into the float bowl, inspect the seat and float needle to make sure that they are not nicked. ok the main jet is the next, when your looking down at the carb it will the taller of the "stems" in the middle, there are a few parts in the stack. unscrew the main jet again be-careful they are brass and soft the main jet is going to have a hole in it make sure it is clean, the main jet is what feeds your beast when you start getting off idle. The idle jet is next, you'll find this jet IN the other " stem " you;ll need a smaller flat head and i cant stress the point be careful they are brass and WILL strip easy. remove this jet insure it is open. next is the air/fuel screw it will on the outside of the float bowl on the bottom, most likely one the front ( the part that goes to the motor) the factory puts a small alum. plug over it to do two things 1st keep people that dont know how to tune a carb from messing with it, 2nd keep people that dont know how to tune a carb from messing with it. the cap is most likely been removed due to the age of the bike. if it has been simply unscrew the screw. there will be a screw,a spring,a metal washer then a rubber washer. put then back this way. after you have it out take some carb cleaner and spray inside the hole you should see it come out the idle jet hole and a small hole inside the thoat of the carb. , now that its clean put it back together, all the right way. if you have more then one repeat, now the carbs are on the bike they need to be synchronized, this is something that most people cant do in there home shop. if your piston was going out you would know it makes a hell of a noise. your cylinder is most likely not firing. give it a whirl and let me know how it works
If you have any more questions let me know
M.Woodring
[email protected]

the carburetors will need thoroughly cleaned and related rubber vacuum and fuel hoses will need replaced. Use fuel rated hose on fuel lines.
Gasoline goes bad with time and in as little as 3-4 weeks. This effect is known as varnishing. Jets and passageways within carburetors become obstructed when varnishing occurs.
Liquid gasoline changes chemically into a gel like substance. Advanced stages of varnishing results with the solid gel changing into a crystal powder substance. Interior carb surfaces are etched in the process and may require carb replacement.
The choke and pilot circuits with most motorcycle carburetors share passageways. When pilot jets become obstructed, the choke circuit compensates and allows engine to start and idle with choke, but stalls without choke.
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FOR MORE HELP:---
Carb Cleaning 101
The elements of internal combustion engines are; correct fuel/air ratio, spark at right time, adequate cylinder compression. Motorcycle and ATV carburetors have many passageways and openings to check and clean. Subtle to radical effects on engine performance occur when jets and passageways become obstructed. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also effect performance and should be checked and adjusted. The following procedures are a helpful guideline.
Carb Cleaning 101:----Warning: Remove all rubber (Neoprene) parts before applying chemicals to carburetor parts. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o’rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners may damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb brackets.
Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace individual fuel and air circuit passageways from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight paths through castings to form passageways. A change of direction or angle means drilling additional connecting passageways. Access holes left by the drilling process are plugged with brass or bronze beads. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes, pipe cleaners, and compressed air. Many household items can be useful cleaning tools. Remove any discoloration and debris from carbs. Look for carb spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways. Chase immediately with compressed air.
Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following; jet-cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube, which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber, exposed base.
Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve’s seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.
Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).
Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and emulsion tower (main jet screws into). Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…
Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.
Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.
Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).
Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

BEFORE YOU START
You are haveing carb problems.
Make sure that dirty carbs are actually your problem. Lots of things can make a bike run poorly or not start. Weak battery, corroded electrics, old spark plugs, bad timing, low compression, mis-adjusted valves, dirty air filter, and plugged exhausts can all cause poor running. I'll write an article eventually on how to diagnose poor running conditions shortly, but for now - lets just deal with the carbs.

There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also have effects on performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.

Carb Cleaning 101
Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o’rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve’s seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve’s spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve’s tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

Choke Plungers: It is common for Mikuni slide carburetors to have indented or hardened choke plunger pads. If the pads are worn, indented or hardened with age, then the idle of your bike will vary wildly as the pads no longer seal well.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or verneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It’s a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

check that reed valves not sticking and check the pilot jet its prob. half blocked. have to stick a very thin wire through it.

two stoke I guees, eletronic choke if so then it is stuck, if not then if slide then slide stuck up a hair...carbs systems use Idle jet and main jet, the main jet is a taper jet with a tapper needle that adjust gas flow as the needle move up air flow across it draws more gas through the hole going to the float bowl but the idle jet is a fixed hole that has a air mixture screw nthat lets you trim the fuel air ratio for idle make sure the srew did not fall out, next a stuck float bowl can flood the idle with too much gas next the chock if half on can cause a high rich gas and cause huigh idle next a sticky throttle cable can cause high idle and just unhook throttle cable to check this the last thing is a points not electrong ignition system bike can cause high idle...air leake into the carb just like a vacum leak in a car can cause high idle...l.start with diss connecting trootle cable then check for needle jet seating then check for choke not stuck last is the float bowl level you get it study how a carb works and you nail this thats how I learned after 115 motorcycles I had seen alot of my own errors....rememeber high idle most likly is to much gas...now how is it getting to much gas is the question most likley

Sounds like dirt in the main jet of the carb. Take the slide out and clean the needle. The pull the float bowl and blow air or carb cleaner through the brass jet in the middle of the barb, where the needle seats.

sounds like the main jets are partly pluged, you must remve all brass jets and seats including needle jet and its slide soak in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air only.. hold up to bright light to verify if all are clean. jim

I have a supermagna and used fuel stablizer once and it wasnt fit it gummed my carbs up,ive cleaned mine often and it isnt rocket science,remove the tank airbox assembly,loosen up the boot flanges that hook the carbs to the motor(ones on carb)then remove the carbs,then the cables,choke and throttle,do not remove carbs from assembly(leave all 4 together)remove the bottoms and tops of a carb,removefloat and jet,then remove all the brass jets and clean them so you can see through holes,,blow out all the holes in carbs,and reasemble,works for me every time,about two hours to do,good luck