Where is the idle screw and isn't that connected to the choke on the left-hand side of the left handle grip

For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

Big brass screws on each carb, left side of carb I think, not that easy to get at on the GTX, but you can turn them by hand

Hi,
Your model does not have screws to the handles you can see. With the door closed, use two hands and grip the handle, with a little force pull up on the door handle to release it, the screws you seek are behind the handle on the door itself. Reverse directions to install handles.
Good Luck

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The chainbrake should be activated when starting the chain saw. Activate the chain brakeby pushing the front hand guard forwards.b>Cold engine Start position, 1: Set the start/stop switch in the choke position by pulling thered control outward - upward.Decompression valve: Press the valve to reduce the pressure in the cylinder and makestarting easier. Once the machine has started the valve will automaticallyreturn to its original setting.Air purge: Press the air purge diaphragm repeatedly until fuel fills thediaphragm (at least 6 times). The diaphragm need not be completely filled.Grip the front handle with yourleft hand. Hold the chain saw on the ground by placing your right foot throughthe rear handle.Pull the starter handle, 4: Pull the starter handle with your right hand and pull out thestarter cord slowly until you feel a resistance (as the starter pawls engage)then pull firmly and rapidly until the engine fires.Push down the red choke control: As soon as the engine fires which can be heard through a"puff" sound, push down on the red choke control.Pull the starter handle (6): Keep on pulling the cord powerfully until the engine starts.

On the Left grip just use a razor blade to cut it off, Length wise, its glued at factory. On the throttle side. Loosen your throttle and idle cable all the way. Take out the two screws that cover the grip, your button switch. You will see two brass prindles on each side at the end of the cable remove them. The grip now slides off, place new rip on and insert csbles and brass pieces in the slot on the grip. Usualy easier to use a needle nose plyer to do the work its tight. You will drop the brass piece a few times dont get frustrated, After you button the lid on with the two screws, readjust your cables..thats it.

To change the throttle/idle cables, first you need to remove the fuel tanks so you can get to the carb/throttle body. Loosen the adjusters at the throttle grip on the handlebars. Remove the idle cable first and the remove the throttle cable from the carb/throttle body. Then take the two bolts out of the throttle grip housing halves and carefully seperate them. Remove the old cables from the twist grip. Reinstall new cables in the reverse procedure. Before starting the bike, make absolutely sure that the throttle cables work like they're supposed to and the carb/throttle body will close completely.

To remove the clutch cable, remove exhaust system or whatever might be in the way on the right side of the bike. You need to remove the right side transmission cover. Drain the transmission oil. Remove the chrome right side transmission cover. Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch release mechanism. Screw the end of the clutch cable out of the cover and take the cable loose from the clutch lever on the handlebars. Reinstall in reverse order making sure you install a new O-ring on the cable at the transmission cover. Replace cover and refill transmission with oil. Reinstall anything else you had to take off.

Sometimes, these grips are glued, but in the case that your's is not. What i do is open the upper lip with a screw driver, then pour in a little oil, then see how far you can get a small screw driver down between the grip and the handle and try to turn the screw driver in a parallel motion with the handle. This allows the oil to spread better inside, then see if it'll just twist around. If it does, then just twist it in an unscrewing motion and it should slip right off. Make sure you clean it well before putting it on the new handlebars.

Good luck

there are adjusting screws on the carburetor they will be screws with a spring on it ... try slightly adjusting them ... if your choking it then turn the screws out a little this will make it run richer. Btw 1 screw is idle screw the other is high rpm ... looking at the screws the one on the left should be the idle screw ... if you have documentation there may be instructions for this ... good luck

I would have your compression tested, if its a two stroke, and you can use tools with out breaking things or yourself, pour a cup of fuel down the left hand side of the carb and take the right hand side of the carb off and crank it like mad, if fuel leaks from there you better get to a repairer.

other wise the idle adjuster is usually on the left hand side where the accelerator linkages are, it will be a screw where the linkage touches when the throttle is closed. not too hard to find if you have a light source.



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