Adjust headlamps my light are too low and can not see the road at night.. it needs to be raised. help please

Should be an adjuster screw near or around the top of the headlamp when you open the hood. There are YouTube videos that may show how to do that and adjust it correctly so you don't blind people at night and avoid being pulled over by the cops

If by in or out you mean make the beam pattern move closer or farther away from the vehicle, then yes you can. There are adjustment screws (usually 2) on each headlamp assembly. One raises and lowers the headlamp. This will move the beam closer to (down) or further from (up) the vehicle. The other will adjust the beam from left to right. The screw at the top (or bottom) is for the vertical and the screw on the side is for horizontal. The easiest way to adjust the headlamps correctly is to, at night, go to a location where you can park about 50 feet away from a blank wall. Turn on the low beam headlamps. In order to "properly" adjust the lamps, the left side headlamp's main beam should cast is "ring" on the wall at about the centerline of the car (left-to-right adjustment), with the bottom of the beam just reaching the ground (vertical adjustment). The right side headlamp should be adjusted to shine along the right edge of the vehicle (where the white edge line would be) at the 50 foot mark (left-to-right) and the height should be the same as the left headlamp - beam just touching the ground. Many people make the mistake of pointing them straight down the road. This causes "overspray" into the oncoming lanes and blinds oncoming motorists. I'm sure you've experienced the annoyance of someone coming toward you with their lights right in your eyes. That is caused by misadjustment. If you get the low means right, the high beams will work well for approximately 200-300 feet down the road, which, unless you are night racing, is more than enough distance to see well to drive.

Okay, This depends on your State laws, because some States require the headlight aiming to be performed at Inspection time.
There are small hex shaped adjustment screws around your headlamps. They require very small sockets of perhaps 1/16 th of an inch and barely fit next to the headlamp housing. At most there will be 1 for up and down and 1 for left and right so two adjustments for each lamp housing.

Unless the housing has 2 separate independently moving compartments for each low and high beam you are stuck with the setup of the low beams. This means you have to adjust the low beams and the high beams are not independently adjustable.

If you find that each lamp is independent, then disconnect the low beam bulbs and adjust the high beams at night or in a garage and put some tape or marks for a level line for a pattern. Then adjust the beams with the drivers side slightly towards the center of the car and the passengers side to the right of the car.

This is similar to how the low beams are set. You can then raise the beams up to be higher on the passengers side for better visibility. Opinions on this vary.

Myself, I set my passenger beam to hit the curb or right lane marker when I drive on a multilane highway. This way the right side of my car is projecting a beam that keeps me centered in my lane by just keeping my passenger light on the lane marker. It works good in fog and around curves.

The State of Texas was one State which checked headlamp alignment with every annual Vehicle Inpection. The idea is to keep from blinding oncoming motorists.

There were some Magazines which evaluated the lighting in new cars as part of their consumer testing. Some of the Oldsmobiles, I believe, were cited for poor visibility and a term called "cutoff" was used to describe the lack of *********** by the headlight beams.

Now the low beams adjust to the same pattern. For some reason I remember having the low beams at 42 inches height and at a distance of 25 feet. These would be the marks you would try for on the garage wall.

You might want to browse about the magazine articles. You can try the new improved bulbs to help too!

Purchased a 4 mm socket and had the necessary adjustment with the adjustment screw right above the headlights. Clockwise will raise the lights while counterclockwise will lower the lights.

The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly, behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator support.

You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam (separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal adjustment screws as well

Park your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same bulb, only do it for the lows)

For Low Beams: If the headlights read VOR, then aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall. If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.

For High Beams (if separate from low beams): Aim the headlight directly at the line you marked on the wall.

The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly, behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator support.

You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam (separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal adjustment screws as well

Park your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same bulb, only do it for the lows)

For Low Beams: If the headlights read VOR, then aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall. If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.

For High Beams (if separate from low beams): Aim the headlight directly at the line you marked on the wall.

The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly, behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator support.

You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam (separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal adjustment screws as well

Park your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same bulb, only do it for the lows)

If the headlights read VOR, then aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall. If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.

Ford Requires a special tool to adjust headlights, you can buy from ford or Mac or snap-on tools. Car must be level and you need it to be slightly dark outside so you can see what your doing. Adjust driver head light on low beam, as you are turning adjustment screw turn the screw for raising the head light and raise the head light up or down till it is 30 feet in front of you. you can take steps and measure it this way which would be 10 steps or ten yards on a normal person that is 5.8ins tall. then adjust the side adjuster so that when looking at the head light spot on the ground it is pointing to the passenger car side about one foot away from straight on. Meaning if you were going down the highway that the light would point down and slightly to the right not on the center road painted lines. Next adjust the passenger side to where it is the same height as the driver side, then hit your high beams. it should be aimed so that the lights do not shine into on com-ming drivers eyes. If you have a garage or a building that you can get thirty feet away and the car is level it will make it easier for you to see what your adjusting. Afterwords you may have to make a minor adjustment to both lights. I like to set them so that the passenger is slightly higher and a little to the right so you can see going down the road at night an avoid or see a deer or person to the right side of the road. Some states requires that a certified light mechanic to do this so be sure you are not voilating any laws when doing this. Thanks for using fix-ya and rate if this was helpful.

The headlamps themselves will look identical. If you were to look at the beam pattern of the light, then it would be different. Your original headlights were designed to throw excess light to the passenger side of the road (I.E. away from oncoming cars). Now that driving directions are opposite in France, your old headlights would be throwing the excess light into the oncoming cars, blinding them). The new lights are designed to throw the light away from those oncoming cars.

The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly, behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator support.

You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam (separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal adjustment screws as well

Park your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same bulb, only do it for the lows)

For Low Beams: If the headlights read VOR, then aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall. If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.

For High Beams (if separate from low beams): Aim the headlight directly at the line you marked on the wall.

Is the car lowered? mine does that too but is has 1.4 inch lowering springs. i readjusted the hight of the lights manually and they work fine now.