My 01 yz125,with a Athena big bore kit- i just rebuilt the top end, took it easy with it for the 2 1/2 hrs i rode it...then i went roll up along side my freind and when i pulled the clutch the bike still inched forward about a couple feet and died out..didnt really think nothing of it. went to kick it and it felt like it was binding..sifted to neutral and could not get front sprocket to spin..had to carry rear of bike to move. please tell me it wont be too costly to fix, thanks for your time.

SOURCE: frount end woddle/weave springer 30 - 40

check the wheel alignment front and rear a little out of alignment and a lot of wobble

SOURCE: I,m getting fire and gas its in time hits but wont start

I had a simular problem with my 88 xr. It started out just running bad at higher speeds which had me thinking it was a carb or plug problem. I started changing plugs and had varing results which still had me guessing. So I started adjusting and jetting the carb. Still the same varing results. I suspected the CDI box so I tried to get one. (I live in Thailand, not the easiest thing.) The parts places produced several boxes that plugger in but gave me the results you just described. Good spark but no start, I also got one box that started the bike real good but would not accelerate. There is a built in timing in those CDI boxes. Just thought you might check this, By the way the original box of mine eventually failed completely and I was correct in my suspicions. I found a used one and it runs great.

SOURCE: 1987 yz125 clutch not working!

If you can see the actuator moving, but not disengaging the clutch, it usually means that the clutches are hanging up in the basket, or the actuator is bad and not releasing the clutches. The only way to tell is to take off the clutch cover and watch what happens when you pull the clutch.

SOURCE: bike wont go into gear, just had a new clutch put

With bike not running, rock the bike backwards and forwards and shift through all the gears. If it shifts all the way to fifth gear and back down, then the problem is not in the transmission. If you can't shift the transmission into any gear with the bike not running, just rocking it backwards and forwards, then you've got a problem with the transmission or the shift lever mechanism.

If it does shift but you still can't get it into gear something is strange. I've seen a clutch that the plates were locked together from sitting up, but it still would shift into gear. Of course, when it did shift into first gear, the bike would lurch forward and kill the engine. In this case, we had to disassemble the clutch pack and free the plates up. If you've had a new clutch put in the bike, it could simply need an adjustment. But, usually a new clutch will have a tendency to wear in and start to slip rather than drag. When a clutch causes the bike to lurch when put into gear or become difficult to find neutral with the engine running, it's dragging. I'd check the entire clutch adjustment to start with.

Slide the rubber boot on the clutch cable up, break the lock nut loose and turn the adjuster to make the cable as short as possible. Take the derby cover off the primary to gain access to the clutch release adjuster bolt. Break the large locknut loose, adjust the center bolt inward until you feel resistance. Back the screw back out and back in until you feel resistance again several times. You want to just take the slack out of the adjustment, not start to open the clutch up. Once you've turned the bolt in and feel the resistance, back the bolt back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn. Hold the bolt in this position and lock the lock nut again. Now, adjust the clutch cable back out until you get a freeplay of about an 1/8 inch at the lever. The clutch should be adjusted well enough to release at this point. If it doesn't, the clutch plates are probably stuck.

If the clutch plates are stuck, rock the bike back and forth and shift the bike into fourth or fifth gear. Now, while holding the clutch lever in, push the bike backwards and forwards far enough to "bump" the clutch. This may break the bond between the plates and free it up. If not, you'll have to disassemble the clutch in order to free it up. Good Luck.

Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time to help me out, very informative. Thank you again."

SOURCE: replacing timing chain on ttr 90

There should be a timing mark on the magneto, rotate crank until line is visible thru inspection hole. This will position engine at Top Dead Centre. Have head complete with gaskets, valves, springs and camshft in place and position with camshaft chain in ready position, (you have to hold chain thru camchain opening) Place head on and bolt tight (no need to torque down yet) and pull camchain tight on opposite side to tensioner (fully loosened) and feed over camchain sprocket, take up tension with tensioner screw/bolt. This will have engine TDC with valves closed (as if to fire) rotate engine by hand and ensure tracking of camchain and tension is steady on chain. Valves should actuate in time. Have a close look on camchaim sprocket and a mark of some sort should show against corresponding mark on camshaft journal cuos.


http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/index.php

Need the Manual: Down load from the link above, enter model, make year and download for free. (It's in four languages however) The relevent detail is in chapter 4-8 to 4-13. I think, Cheers.